Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just installed the full kit yesterday on my non-Bose Sierra. Really surprised with the kit. Riding with all the windows down and still hearing the radio is now an option lol

 

For people on the fence, it's a perfectly integrated, stealthy stereo. It sounds much better. The sub is plenty adaquent for more bassy stereo listening. But it's not going to replace a custom system, in terms of volume or thump.

 

I've had both style in the past, and for daily driving duties, I'd go this Kicker route 9 out of 10 times.

  • Like 2
Posted

I had the Kicker sub kit installed into the truck yesterday. It does give it more "bass", but the lack of control in optimization makes it "dirty" bass. It's not clean unless you turn the bass tone setting lower than the middle (zero) setting. Any more than that and it rattles everything, but doesn't sound clean in my opinion. Going to give it a few days before I decide what I'm going to do with it.

 

As a side note, I would consider myself and Audio guy and knew that Kicker doesn't have the best rep for clean bass. I'm comparison, I used to run a 13W7 powered by a JL Audio Slash 1000/1 and have MB Quart Qs for both my fronts and rears powered by a 450/4. All of this in a 03 4 door Explorer and the truck not only was loud as hell, but clean!

 

I think the factory Bose system sounds great, and no intention to hack it, I was just really hoping to add a little more bass to compliment the rest of the system.

Posted

I think that's a very accurate description, especially not "clean" bass. As long as you're trying to add some bass, and a little thump, it's perfect. Trying to make it boomy just isn't going to work.

Posted (edited)

I had the Kicker sub kit installed into the truck yesterday. It does give it more "bass", but the lack of control in optimization makes it "dirty" bass. It's not clean unless you turn the bass tone setting lower than the middle (zero) setting. Any more than that and it rattles everything, but doesn't sound clean in my opinion. Going to give it a few days before I decide what I'm going to do with it.

 

As a side note, I would consider myself and Audio guy and knew that Kicker doesn't have the best rep for clean bass. I'm comparison, I used to run a 13W7 powered by a JL Audio Slash 1000/1 and have MB Quart Qs for both my fronts and rears powered by a 450/4. All of this in a 03 4 door Explorer and the truck not only was loud as hell, but clean!

 

I think the factory Bose system sounds great, and no intention to hack it, I was just really hoping to add a little more bass to compliment the rest of the system.

 

The bass isn't clean because you have no way of dialing in the frequencies. If you are any kind of audiophile, you should know the factory Bose systems aren't anything special. Remember, sound quality starts with the "source". I've ran Kicker systems for over 25 years & love them, but always had a good amp, cross-overs & head unit to control all the frequencies. The Soundgate is a "Band-Aid" for the sub-par, mexico made, stock speaker/stereo systems.

Edited by mtbadbob
Posted

The bass isn't clean because you have no way of dialing in the frequencies. If you are any kind of audiophile, you should know the factory Bose systems aren't anything special. Remember, sound quality starts with the "source". I've ran Kicker systems for over 25 years & love them, but always had a good amp, cross-overs & head unit to control all the frequencies. The Soundgate is a "Band-Aid" for the sub-par, mexico made, stock speaker/stereo systems.

Thats pretty much what I said....
Posted

I keep my EQ flat with the exception of a little more treble. Was listening to XM Chill through my phone/bluetooth today and was blown away by how clean it sounded. I agree with others that when the bass is up, it's not clean. But it is a major improvement over stock.

Posted

Mine just came in .I will be doing the install this weekend. I have the Non Bose system and think it sounds pretty good at moderate volume levels . So I am just looking for a little extra volume and a bit of thump. This should fit the bill and its Plug and play.

  • Like 1
Posted

Their not easy plug and play. Remove radio amp seats etc. pita. Easier when I did a custom box and sounds better. Trust me. They suck!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Their not easy plug and play. Remove radio amp seats etc. pita. Easier when I did a custom box and sounds better. Trust me. They suck!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put in the full system ( not just the sub ) and it did not require you to pull the seats.

I would admit that having control of the sub with a bass knob would be nice. But after listening to bass heavy, metal I would say it was worth the 867 i paid shipped.

I was looking a building something and there was no way I was building a reliable , seamless installation for that kinda money and doing it in 1 1/2 hours.

I will say there instructions sucked but the end results is good.

If you are looking to have cars next to you vibrate from the bass it is the wrong system for you. but if you are looking for good all around system that is really nice at moderate to somewhat high levels this fits the bill and I did not hack any wiring.

Edited by mrhonestlyinsane
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Any one of you guys in the Albuquerque Area? I'd like to hear someone's truck with this in it before I buy one.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I thought I would give some feedback on the Kicker PSIEXT14 product. This is the Amp and sub kit ( not the sub only ) for the 14/15 Double Cab 1500 without Bose.

 

It does make a huge improvement, no doubt. But it wasn't good enough for my ears. I don't consider myself to be an audiophile, but I can't stand harsh, flat audio inherently in factory audio systems.

 

After a couple of weeks, I installed Kicker 41KSS654 components, replacing the front door woofers and the dash 2.5 drivers with the 1" tweeter. I located the crossover in the door skin's armrest and had to run a new pair of wires from it, through the factory wiring conduit to the dash speaker location (PITA). I had to make some brackets for the tweeters in the dash (I used some plywood veneer I had kicking around).

 

Now it actually sounds pretty good. The kicker components need power and play a little quieter requiring the fader forward a fare bit. But it plays so much cleaner, I'm OK with it.

 

My multimeter shows the factory speakers are 4 ohms ( I couldn't find this info anywhere and Crutchfield didn't know either).

 

I hope this post proves useful to somebody.

 

Chris

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hello people,

I have the Kicker sub-only for sale for the '07-'13 1500, '07-'14 HD crew cabs. I bought this used, it works fine, but it doesn't fit my '15 HD, although GM & Kicker part #'s suggest that. Anyhow, I'm looking to get $400 shipped OBO, to lower 48. Please message me, or you can call 406-439-4276, I'm in Montana.

 

P.S. I'm buying the correct sub & I'll include the new, uninstalled harness with this used unit. Hit me up or call with any ?'s, thanks!...Bob

Edited by mtbadbob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
    • Rockauto bud. I pass local stores for parts.   Findya something online. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...