Jump to content

Cargo Lights on with Reverse Lights

El Conquistador
 Share

Recommended Posts

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

Not 100% sure how you have all this wired, but it's possible you created an electrical switch or are simply put drawing the signal away from the bcm. If you could isolate you other signals with relays it might help. Diagrams and pictures are a most for me as I'm a hands on person.

  • Replies 357
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

El Conquistador
El Conquistador

Okay so I was inspired by 2 threads here, one being the fog lights on with high beams, which I did and love. The other is a thread about putting a switch in the bed by the tailgate to turn on the car

Crooks
Crooks

Did you jam it in far enough? She will take it

morrislee
morrislee

Hello,   Good idea, but I took your step little different. I have the puddle light and I tapped into that.     This way, when vehicle is in "run" position, puddle lights and the cargo lights w

Posted Images

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Not 100% sure how you have all this wired, but it's possible you created an electrical switch or are simply put drawing the signal away from the bcm. If you could isolate you other signals with relays it might help. Diagrams and pictures are a most for me as I'm a hands on person.

I'm at school for the week. If I can get some pictures this week I will but it may not be till the weekend. I have the diode between the cargos and reverse and the side lights are wired to the cargos and the VLEDS LPF is also wired to the cargos. I'm wondering if it is drawing too much power on the cargo circuit.

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a lot coming off that tiny wire. Use it as a signal for a relay instead. If for some reason that doesn't work try a resistor in line to reduce the current but I'd dues just the relay will work.

  • 2 weeks later...
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello,

 

Good idea, but I took your step little different. I have the puddle light and I tapped into that.

 

post-134831-0-25743200-1417045320_thumb.jpg

 

This way, when vehicle is in "run" position, puddle lights and the cargo lights will be completely off (as would the cargo light switch would too)

 

I also have a overhead canopy light, so it HAS to be off when backing up.

 

I have attached the diagram, REMEMBER, the orientation of the diagram is with the plug out, and the plug end facing you with clip fastener facing up!

 

post-134831-0-42053500-1417045324_thumb.png

 

**** TIP****

I have had trouble keeping the leads of the diode in the wire socket, I end up sanding it sharp so I can get it in deeper next to the exposed area of the wire. IT ALSO HELPS if you wiggle the wire to the opposite direction it is leaning on to and insert the leads in that side. Wiggle the wire to the other side allows it to push back and keep the leads of the diode in the pressured position to maintain a solid connection.

post-134831-0-25743200-1417045320_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-42053500-1417045324_thumb.png

post-134831-0-25743200-1417045320_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-42053500-1417045324_thumb.png

post-134831-0-25743200-1417045320_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-42053500-1417045324_thumb.png

Edited by morrislee
  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
FormerFordGuy Enthusiast

FormerFordGuy

Posted
Posted

I just did this and it works great! Thanks for the write up and pics.

 

Anyone know a way to turn on the cargos while in drive? I could do it in my old F150 and it was great for checking on cargo at night to make sure nothing had come untied.

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

Just throw it in reverse real quick. hehe. Since these are all using automated controls to turn the cargo light on a different time none will work for that, but if you hook up a momentary button and feed to the same spot you should be able to have it come on while pressed.

nahulu77 Enthusiast

nahulu77

Posted
Posted

Or while driving on the freeway, throw it in neutral then turn on your cargo, and when your done checking the load just throw it back in drive and it will automatically go off. Hahahahahaha.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Ride.Safe Enthusiast

Ride.Safe

Posted
Posted

I've still got to work on getting this done (cold out today -17 so I'll wait for warmer weather). But I've also been thinking as you guys are good! Is there any way to turn on the reverse camara without actually putting the truck in reverse?

  • 3 weeks later...
BurtC New Member

BurtC

Posted
Posted

HELP! Somebody that knows how to track a wiring problem, please help. I accidentally applied +12v to pin 3 on the passenger mirror harness. According to the GM Upfittter diagrams, this is for the "Co-Driver Mirror Position Sensor Low Reference" (circuit 3400). It sparked and I obviously blew somthing that has to do with the mirror memory control. I can still adjust the mirrors fine, but the real problem is that I cannot save the settings.... so every time I turn off the car, the mirror self-adjusts to a bad position and I must re-adjust them every single time I get in the truck.

 

I'll buy a new whatever I need to replace, but the problem is... I don't know what that is.

 

The good news is, I got the new mirrors installed & they look great.

 

 

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

HELP! Somebody that knows how to track a wiring problem, please help. I accidentally applied +12v to pin 3 on the passenger mirror harness. According to the GM Upfittter diagrams, this is for the "Co-Driver Mirror Position Sensor Low Reference" (circuit 3400). It sparked and I obviously blew somthing that has to do with the mirror memory control. I can still adjust the mirrors fine, but the real problem is that I cannot save the settings.... so every time I turn off the car, the mirror self-adjusts to a bad position and I must re-adjust them every single time I get in the truck.

 

I'll buy a new whatever I need to replace, but the problem is... I don't know what that is.

 

The good news is, I got the new mirrors installed & they look great.

 

 

 

 

have you checked all fuse boxes for a blown fuse?

BurtC New Member

BurtC

Posted
Posted

 

 

have you checked all fuse boxes for a blown fuse?

The fuse was my initial thought & I still may check them, however, the seat memory buttons still work. The ONLY think I can't do is press the "set" button to remember current settings. Any idea what fuse it could even be? There are so many. Also, I sent power down a wire that is for a sensor... it makes sense that either the sensor, or the module that monitors that sensor was fried.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

The fuse was my initial thought & I still may check them, however, the seat memory buttons still work. The ONLY think I can't do is press the "set" button to remember current settings. Any idea what fuse it could even be? There are so many. Also, I sent power down a wire that is for a sensor... it makes sense that either the sensor, or the module that monitors that sensor was fried.

 

 

 

would make sense. I was just saying to check the fuses incase if you get lucky and that is the only thing that did get fried. If you don't get lucky with it just being a fuse then you may have to go to a dealer to get them to see what got fried.

 

I don't have a clue which fuse it could be.

  • 2 weeks later...
Colt54qg Enthusiast

Colt54qg

Posted
Posted

Thanks conquistador! Did mine as well. Not the prettiest diode setup, up it works. Now I just need to change my reverse lights so everything can be xenon white.

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1413744746.480520.jpg

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1413744773.816349.jpg

What leds did you use for the raptor style lighting? Is there a write up on it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...