Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The 6L80E/6L90E/8L60E are all built in clean rooms. They are purported to be built and sealed for service life and at a minimum do not need to be opened up until after the 100,000 mile mark.

 

As said the procedure is very specific on how to check the transmission fluid level. Vehicle has to be level, up to 180° (I think) at that point you remove a bolt from the recessed hold in the pan. If the fluid is at the correct level it should just barely trickle out of the hole. To fill the transmission you buy the adapter that fits into this port and pump the fluid until it runs out of the same hole (there is a full procedure for a fill after filter change).

 

That is it in a nut shell.

Posted (edited)

Maybe the trans is so complex and sensitive to contamination that the manufactures are going this way...

It's just when I have no way to check on the fluid myself who is gonna pay for a damage caused by a low fluid level?

Maybe I would have been able to notice a problem (e.g. a slow leak) with my routine fluid check.

 

I guess the DIC will tell me when the fluid is low. Doesn't help me in the desert...or Alaska (if you know what I mean :) ).

 

so long

j-ten-ner

Edited by j-ten-ner
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It also uses a new fluid.

 

DEXRON®-HP Automatic Transmission Fluid (GM Part No. 19300536, in
Canada 19300537).
Edited by redwngr
Posted (edited)

The Jeep and Challenger are this way, no transmission dipstick. So I bought the service dipstick, checked both when they were new and recorded the readings which corresponded to the chart I had. Some people have gotten around the problem by purchasing a long zip tie and using it as a service dipstick.

 

I don't like it but what are you going to do?

 

At least on my dad's '07 Grand Cherokee, it has the tube, but no dipstick.

 

This is just another bean counter move, and one that forces you back to the dealer's service bay for simple operations. Unforgiveable in a light truck, but commonplace in passengers cars for 15 plus years.

Edited by 2013sierrasle
Posted

Can someone please tell me with the 8-speed having a lower 1st gear but a taller ring gear does the 1st gear end up being lower then the 6-speed or taller? I am guessing 1st and reverse gear are both still lower bit hard to figure since GM switched to the 3.23 vs the 3.42 gear.

Posted

It's not hard at all to figure. 1st gear ratio multiplied by the axle ratio gives you the final drive. Offhand I don't know 8-speed ratios but I'm guessing it will be lower overall.

Posted

What a joke. Bad enough our Cruze's don't have a dipstick, but not having one in a truck is completely stupid. Whoever came up with this stupid idea should be kicked in their groin.

  • Like 1
Posted

The volkswagons are the worst. One time we had one lose all its trans fluid from hitting a parking stop lost all it trans fluid and we had to fill the pan and run it for 5 seconds and shut off, and repeat so we had enough to get it to the stealership If the battery dies the radio wont work either unless the dealer plugs in

Posted

Can someone please tell me with the 8-speed having a lower 1st gear but a taller ring gear does the 1st gear end up being lower then the 6-speed or taller? I am guessing 1st and reverse gear are both still lower bit hard to figure since GM switched to the 3.23 vs the 3.42 gear.

Compared to the 5.3 with 3.42, 8speed low is lower and high is higher.

Same if you compare the NHT versions - 5.3 - 3.73 compared to 6.2/8sp with 3.42

 

Type: 8L90 eight-speed 6L80 six-speed
Gear ratios (:1) 3.23 3.42
First: 4.56 14.73 4.03 13.78
Second: 2.97 9.59 2.36 8.07
Third: 2.08 6.72 1.5 5.23
Fourth: 1.69 5.46 1.15 3.93
Fifth: 1.27 4.10 0.85 2.91
Sixth: 1.00 3.23 0.67 2.29
Seventh: 0.85 2.75 N/A N/A
Eighth 0.65 2.10 N/A N/A
Reverse: 3.82 12.34 3.06 10.47
  • 5 years later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 5/30/2020 at 3:35 PM, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

Has anyone installed B&M transmission dipstick?


 

I have one sitting in my basement, but have not installed it yet. My transmission was replaced under warranty last year because it was hesitant to go into drive whenever the truck sat for 8 or more hours. It’s funny that they never installed a dipstick and use the excuse for it as people don’t need to do it themselves because they’ll screw up the transmission, but GM themselves can’t even get these transmissions right to begin with.

  • Haha 1
  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 11/27/2014 at 12:45 AM, redwngr said:

From the OM:

 

Automatic Transmission Fluid (8 Speed Transmission)
 
When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid
 
It is usually not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. The only reason for fluid loss is a
transmission leak or overheated transmission. This vehicle is not equipped with a transmission fluid
level dipstick.
 
There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid in these vehicles. Because this procedure is difficult, this should be done at the dealer. Contact the dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. See Service Publications Ordering Information on page 13-11.

 

You gotta be kidding me. I paid a ton of money for this?  What, so gm can charge me to check the tranny fluid and make up lies about the condition?  To get me to buy a new one?  Damn. Buyer beware cause the shady mechanic cometh. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...