Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Hey, I have the adjustable pedals on my 2018 and the entire pedal seems loose and moves loosely in every which direction. I'm not sure if I have a fluke or if this is normal between all of the adjustable pedal models. I had a 2014 with non adjust and it had minimal flex but I still did this mod. Looking at my 2018 It doesn't look like as easy of a solution.

 

Any way you could post some pictures or more detailed process of what you did? Would be appreciated if you did.

 

 

Go to "throttle response is poor" Post #56 If you decide to change anything with instructions Stack 1qty more washers for each bolt and that is ALL NO MORE Stacking to get pedal to a closer PLANE WITH BRAKE! Others have completed this task and no problems as of yet! Mine is golden!

Posted

 

 

Go to "throttle response is poor" Post #56 If you decide to change anything with instructions Stack 1qty more washers for each bolt and that is ALL NO MORE Stacking to get pedal to a closer PLANE WITH BRAKE! Others have completed this task and no problems as of yet! Mine is golden!

Hey Thanks!! Will try that out soon!

Posted

 

 

Go to "throttle response is poor" Post #56 If you decide to change anything with instructions Stack 1qty more washers for each bolt and that is ALL NO MORE Stacking to get pedal to a closer PLANE WITH BRAKE! Others have completed this task and no problems as of yet! Mine is golden!

Hey, I actually have another question for you are anyone with the adjustable pedals. When I push down the pedal, it goes almost all the way down to the "floor" and then acts like its hitting a stop and then if you push really hard it will click down another 1/2" maybe for FULL throttle. My question is, is that normal for there to be a stop there? Shouldn't it smoothly go all the way down to the floor? I know my old non-adjustable pedals in my 2014 didn't do this and neither does my dad's 2014 Silverado.

Posted

Hey, I actually have another question for you are anyone with the adjustable pedals. When I push down the pedal, it goes almost all the way down to the "floor" and then acts like its hitting a stop and then if you push really hard it will click down another 1/2" maybe for FULL throttle. My question is, is that normal for there to be a stop there? Shouldn't it smoothly go all the way down to the floor? I know my old non-adjustable pedals in my 2014 didn't do this and neither does my dad's 2014 Silverado.

 

 

that is your kickdown detent!

Posted

I don't think every truck has it as bad. I drove 4 trucks between 2 dealers and took one truck home over night even. One of the trucks had no issues. I felt the other 3 trucks had a vagueness and sloppy throttle response.

 

I have a 17' with adjustable pedals. Sadly mine had the crappiest feeling gas pedal of them all. I used cut a 2.5" piece off of a paint stick and slid it behind the plastic base and metal floor. It was a bit discerning that it kind of went all in and disappeared back there. The results? WOW night and day! Dare I say that my throttle is almost too sensitive. A little press with the foot goes a long way. Immediate acceleration when I press the pedal.

 

This is a must do IMO. The mushy non responsible throttle was a huge black eye to my truck, making it less enjoyable to me. I did this mod after reading about it here. I only had 300 miles on her and couldn't take it no more. The truck feels faster and peppier with the quicker throttle response.

Posted (edited)

Wow, years later my post is still going strong. I'm at 71k miles and my paint stick fix is holding up great!!! I put an Airaid MIT intake pipe on my truck last weekend (still running factory air box and K47 Wix Filter) and this week in the mother f'n stop'n go rush-our traffic was better. Driving our trucks in 105*F bumper to bumper traffic for 1-2hrs on the way home makes you feel like a wooly mammoth surrounded by swarms of lightning fast mosquitoes (corollas). Our trucks do not have the input response like these little happy meal cars that I have to deal with in Tampa. My wife's '15 Enclave is much more suited for that driving. It has perfect throttle response and the transmission programming is done so well I would buy a beer for the person who programmed it. Based on my 3yrs and 71k of driving my truck in heavy traffic my items that help combat slugging reactions have bee:

 

-Transmission fluid. The 6spd loves fresh clean fluid. IMO, 45k service interval is max on this 6spd for my driving use. I even installed an external spin-on filter which has helped keep the fluid clean and the transmission in a ren and stimpy happy happy joy joy state.

 

-Gas pedal shim. Hence this thread I started years ago. Coming from my E39 530i M-Sport and FBO E90 335i, the reactions on the truck were a learning curve. The shim is a must do. Best mod on my list.

 

-Oil Catch can.

 

-Airaid MIT pipe helped with throttle response. Only reason I bought it. Could care less about HP gains.

 

-Cat-back exhaust helped out.

 

-CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY FREQUENTLY. this is a big one. I cannot believe the difference it makes. Clean both sides of the butterfly and wipe the throttle body down.

Edited by FL335i
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Checking in....

 

Read through this whole entire thread on Wednesday and finally caught a day off so I tackled the mod this morning.

 

Just to the scene; I have adjustable pedals maxed out in down position. I pulled the plastic loop under the pedal up and out as far as a I could and began stacking shims until there was absolutely 0 play between the plastic bracket and the firewall. Ended up having to stack 4 high at a measured thickness of 0.48 inch total.

 

Anyone else get close to a 1/2 inch of shim? I thought this seemed pretty high to what I remember reading....

 

In any event; I took it for a test drive and my immediate impression is night and day. It has removed a significant amount of delay in the throttle response!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I picked up a 2017 Silverado 4x4 Double Cab LTZ with a 6.2 last week. So far, I love the truck. I stumbled upon the pedal flex by accident. I was confused by the kickdown detent in the accelerator pedal. At first, I thought maybe the pedal was getting caught on the rubber floor mat. When I stuck my head in the footwell, I noticed the pedal flex. 

 

I immediately wanted to fix the pedal flex, and my family thought I was crazy until I stumbled on this thread. After reading everybody's experiences and solutions, I bought some "rubber cups" from Ace Hardware (see attached photo). I trimmed one with some scissors and wedged it between the plastic backing plate for the accelerator pedal bracket and the floor (see other attached photo).

 

This reduced the flex by about 90%. Throttle response on the truck is much improved. It now feels like I have a more direct connection between my foot and the engine. Before, it felt sloppy. Thanks everybody for figuring this out. I agree this should be a sticky.

IMG_20171024_074805496.jpg

IMG_20171023_200004.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/22/2014 at 8:51 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

 

This has been my complaint from day one on these trucks....you have to basically floor the accelerator pedal to get the truck to move. It's raining like hell today but when the weather clears, I'm going to look at my bracket and I might try this fix if I notice the play. I'm wondering if this is in any way related to the gas pedal vibration:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/157796-vibration-in-floorboard-not-speedtire-related/

I thought my transmission was slipping,thanks for the heads up

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Huge shout out to the OP FL335i on finding this!  I have complained about this since I bought mine 2 years ago and found this thread yesterday and read it all through and when I got home I checked my late '16 build CC Z71 and sure enough I has approx. 1/2" play.  I cut two pieces of an old Equinox slush mat and tucked up on both sides of the last bolt and drove it this morning and sure enough it's night and day.  It's a shame a $52K truck takes a 10 year old floor mat to fix something so senseless.  Will look at the wife's Tahoe tonight and see if hers is the same because I actually got the link to this thread off of the Tahoe forum lol.  Thanks again!

Posted

This is on my to do list for tonight.  Is it possible to 'over shim' and put too much pressure on the bracket and break something?

Posted

I checked mine this evening.  It had some flex, but not as hard as some have described.  I cut a short piece of a 1/4" trim board I had in the garage.  Got it set in there and the small amount of flex I had is all but gone.  I'll see if it's noticeable on my way to work tomorrow.  I never would have guessed the pedal assembly would flex like that.

Posted
On 10/26/2017 at 8:46 AM, Vic Anand said:

I picked up a 2017 Silverado 4x4 Double Cab LTZ with a 6.2 last week.

I immediately wanted to fix the pedal flex, and my family thought I was crazy until I stumbled on this thread. After reading everybody's experiences and solutions, I bought some "rubber cups" from Ace Hardware (see attached photo). I trimmed one with some scissors and wedged it between the plastic backing plate for the accelerator pedal bracket and the floor (see other attached photo).

 

IMG_20171023_200004.jpg

So it looks like you trimmed/tore away some of that rubber or foam material to get access for the shim........is that right? 

Posted

Actually no, I didn't have to trim anything. That's what it looks like down there.

Posted (edited)

Interesting......mine looks like this, although I do have the adjustable pedals........

Sierra accelerator pedal.jpg

Edited by kevinfranklin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...