Jump to content

Gas Pedal Flex Solution

FL335i
 Share

Recommended Posts

Greenie New Member

Greenie

Posted
Posted
On 1/23/2018 at 1:45 PM, reardiff said:

This is on my to do list for tonight.  Is it possible to 'over shim' and put too much pressure on the bracket and break something?

I checked out the wife's Tahoe last night which has the adjustable pedals and hers actually had more play than mine.  I got it all shimmed up so I 'll see if she notices a difference or not,  but she didn't squeal tire out of the garage this morning so she probably won't even notice lol.  

Reardiff,  I don't think you can over shim it within reason,  just try to get close to the right thickness and pull up slightly on the pedal to slide in your material and let the assembly hold it in you shouldn't break anything unless you go all magilla gorilla on it lol.  

  • Replies 292
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FL335i
FL335i

After noticing the gas pedal has a lot of travel before it actually starts to work, I looked at it closely. I noticed it's a very bad design. There is a plastic bracket that is bolted to the floor p

Rubyralph
Rubyralph

I agree that a good video would be worth a million words of what the problem is and where it's located.   I filed the NHTSA complaint shown below:     VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL: 2014 Chevrolet Silver

FL335i
FL335i

I can't believe this post is still going strong almost 3yrs later. Glad my fix is helping others.

Posted Images

kevinfranklin Enthusiast

kevinfranklin

Posted
Posted
On 10/8/2017 at 12:08 PM, Iceman22 said:

Just to the scene; I have adjustable pedals maxed out in down position. I pulled the plastic loop under the pedal up and out as far as a I could and began stacking shims until there was absolutely 0 play between the plastic bracket and the firewall. Ended up having to stack 4 high at a measured thickness of 0.48 inch total.

Anyone else get close to a 1/2 inch of shim? I thought this seemed pretty high to what I remember reading....

 

In any event; I took it for a test drive and my immediate impression is night and day. It has removed a significant amount of delay in the throttle response!

Yep, I used 4 washers, electrical-taped together, and crammed them up under there (rather awkward with big hands) as best I could.

It is DEFINITELY more responsive, and it may just be the placebo effect, but I think the shifting is a little better at low speeds.

Largely Unknown Enthusiast

Largely Unknown

Posted
Posted

I have the adjustable pedals, but they're not adjusted all the way down.  The play in mine seemed to be all side-to-side (huge-amazing! but probably isn't be a factor for me since I'm pushing down).  Not too much slack when pushing down with my hand.  Put the paint stick fix in anyway, wrapped with electric tape, but couldn't tell a difference with the built-in hesitation that these engines already have...may try to put more, if 1/2" is possible as mentioned above. 

  • 2 months later...
Ron505 Enthusiast

Ron505

Posted
Posted

I just shimmed my gas pedal bracket, and I think it made a huge difference.  I have adjustable pedals too.  I didn't tell my wife that i did it,  but while being my DD the other night, she asked if I spent money on a tune or something.  She could tell the difference, and she's just a dumb blonde...lol...j/k

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
Posted

I have a 17 Sierra and my throttle definitely feels odd taking off. The pedal assembly definitely feels sloppy, specifically the gas pedal..

 

Can someone show me where I am supposed to add shims? I just don’t see it. *blank stare*

4E487E0A-E57F-4096-BA96-8A4D97C6C6B4.jpeg

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
Posted

Okay.. after watching the videos in this thread, mine is not flexing down at the bottom bolt, it looks like it’s coming from the other part.. anybody got a fix for this?

99Mastercraft Enthusiast

99Mastercraft

Posted
Posted

Okay.. after watching the videos in this thread, mine is not flexing down at the bottom bolt, it looks like it’s coming from the other part.. anybody got a fix for this?

kevinfranklin Enthusiast

kevinfranklin

Posted
Posted

Here's where I put my stack of washers wrapped in duct tape.....back behind the red "X" which is the lower right corner of that whole plastic assembly:

image.thumb.png.0d714c39937e1d1104088a401ca36a9e.png

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
14GMCZ71 Enthusiast

14GMCZ71

Posted
Posted

Last night I tried this fix.  I pulled back on the accelerator pedal and placed two stacked neoprene rubber washers - each 1/8 inch thick and 2 inches round - under the black plastic bracket to take up the gas pedal flex.  I was able to push the rubber washers far enough up behind the bracket where the lower bolt/nut is located that I could barely see the edge of the washers - and that is looking from under the dash.  That bolt/nut as stated in prior posts must not go clear through the floorboard.

 

Then I drove the truck.  Wow!  What a difference in throttle response.  Great tip.  Thanks!

  • Like 1
Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

I bet the GM Engineers love this thread!  :lol:

 

Maybe the 2019 T1XX trucks will come with paint stick or rubber washer shim kits :thumbs:

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
wforrest08 Senior Enthusiast

wforrest08

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Sierra Dan said:

I bet the GM Engineers love this thread!  :lol:

 

Maybe the 2019 T1XX trucks will come with paint stick or rubber washer shim kits :thumbs:

It will be in the accessories catalog and available at the accessories counter at your local stealership. List price on “kit” will be $49.99 + tax & $54 for labor (just like the cabin air filter :rolleyes:) 

Edited by wforrest08
  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
  • 3 weeks later...
m3n00b Enthusiast

m3n00b

Posted
Posted

I have my adjustable pedals all the way to the floor and they don't flex. Is this what others experience?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted
I have my adjustable pedals all the way to the floor and they don't flex. Is this what others experience?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My adjusted pedals flexed no matter where I set them. I shimmed mine a year ago and it's been great since.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

oachalon Enthusiast

oachalon

Posted
Posted

I just picked a 2018 Silverado LT up last week and noticed the poor tip in response.  I noticed the flex as well.  I quickly stuck a paint stick in there and it is a world of difference.  On that, i am looking for a more permanent solution.  I have a 3d printer at work, has anyone come up with a design that can be 3d printed?  


Thanks, 

lew-e Enthusiast

lew-e

Posted
Posted
I just picked a 2018 Silverado LT up last week and noticed the poor tip in response.  I noticed the flex as well.  I quickly stuck a paint stick in there and it is a world of difference.  On that, i am looking for a more permanent solution.  I have a 3d printer at work, has anyone come up with a design that can be 3d printed?  

Thanks, 

Print a paint stick?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...