Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all! We have been away from the forums, super busy with our new retail store in Las Vegas..

 

We heard from Bilstein on Monday and wanted to updated everyone on the status of the 6112s.

 

The new 5160 Rear Reservoir Shocks are now released & in stock and shipping! They are 1.5" longer than the 5100 rear shock and will accommodate up to a 2.5" rear lift block!

 

90b9d4da-16f1-48b8-b6f5-45082ee00786-420

 

PN Bil 25-242515

$340 a pair delivered

 

Thank you for the update!

 

What other rear shock would you recommend with the 6112's up front? Maybe the 5100 rear shocks?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just bought a 17' z71 1500. Planning on doing a bilstien 5100 swap on the highest setting. I know I can easily fit 285/70r17, but I'm wondering if anyone has put on 285/75r17. I'll be expecting some rub but I'm hoping it's just on the inner fender wall. Any advice or input?

 

Also, my buddy has 295/70 17 that I'll just throw on to see how they fit. I heard with some offset they may hit the sway bar. Has anyone installed these?

Edited by JeenyusSB
Posted

 

Thank you for the update!

 

What other rear shock would you recommend with the 6112's up front? Maybe the 5100 rear shocks?

 

5100s will work great as well. The 5160 is very similar in ride quality, but is slightly longer to accommodate larger rear block lifts as well as having the reservoir for added oil capacity.

 

As soon as we have the part number from Bilstein for the 6112s, we will be contacting all of those on our preorder list as well as posting up pre-sale info for all.

  • Like 1
Posted

Very nice! That is exactly what I was wanting. I thought they'd given up on the 6112. Haven't heard anything about them for quite some time.

 

Typical Bilstein. Ive done about 20 of these releases for them now over the past ten years. Always the same story... but Id rather have them release a product that is 100% ready for market then rush to get something out and deal with problems down the line (cough first gen fox 2.0s cough)

Posted

Just bought a 17' z71 1500. Planning on doing a bilstien 5100 swap on the highest setting. I know I can easily fit 285/70r17, but I'm wondering if anyone has put on 285/75r17. I'll be expecting some rub but I'm hoping it's just on the inner fender wall. Any advice or input?

 

Also, my buddy has 295/70 17 that I'll just throw on to see how they fit. I heard with some offset they may hit the sway bar. Has anyone installed these?

 

The 285/75R17 is a 33.8" tire, the 285/70R17 is a 32.7" tire. Width is the same. The 295/70R17 is 33.25" tall so that shouldnt be an issue, but its also about .4" wider than the 285s are so you may rub the control arm if you are running stock wheels.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, I have B1500's at top setting now. I was thinking about putting back down to factory setting, then installing RC 3.5". Will this work??

I decided that the 1.75" isn't enough and don't want to get rid of my Bilsteins

Edited by Bwoodkid
Posted

How much of a ride quality difference do you notice with these over factory oem?

Takes bumps a lot better, there's a road I drive on every day that's bad. Before I would have to slow down a bit because it would make the rear end hop to the side. Now it glides over and no bucking at all. Takes turns better. I would say much better ride over the Ranchos I had before.

Posted

Does anyone know if the 6112's will give the truck more lift over the 5100's? And will upper CA's be recommend??

Posted

Thinking of swapping my all my Rancho's for Bilstein 5100's on my 2017 Silverado 1500. I've read that the Bilstein's are more off-road based and aren't the best option for pulling. Has anyone had any experience pulling with the Bilstein's vs stock? Wondering if I go 5100's up front to level it out and something stiffer on the back.

 

Also I'm new here but love the website. These forum's helped sway me to Chevy when buying my truck. It's a HUGE upgrade from the falling apart Jeep I was driving.

Posted

Thinking of swapping my all my Rancho's for Bilstein 5100's on my 2017 Silverado 1500. I've read that the Bilstein's are more off-road based and aren't the best option for pulling. Has anyone had any experience pulling with the Bilstein's vs stock? Wondering if I go 5100's up front to level it out and something stiffer on the back.

 

Also I'm new here but love the website. These forum's helped sway me to Chevy when buying my truck. It's a HUGE upgrade from the falling apart Jeep I was driving.

Do it, you will not regret it! The Bilsteins are much more predictable and ride much better. (Even at Max lift up front)

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I tow a 6k# travel trailer, no problems with the Bilstein s at all!

Are you running the 5100's front & rear?

Posted (edited)

Are you running the 5100's front & rear?

Yep front and rear, I also installed Airlift "Ride Control" #59565. Only because with the truck now leveled, it dropped lower in the rear. I only have to put 60psi in and she sits nice and level when I tow. Ok, so I guess that's the only issue.

Edited by Bwoodkid
  • Like 1
Posted

Yep front and rear, I also installed Airlift "Ride Control" #59565. Only because with the truck now leveled, it dropped lower in the rear. I only have to put 60psi in and she sits nice and level when I tow. Ok, so I guess that's the only issue.

Do you notice and ride difference when not towing with this kit, at the 5-10min psi? I have a new kit sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. I have the 3" rear blocks and bilstein rears as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I understand. It is disturbing to think a manufacture asks so much and gives so little in engineering support. This is not a GM issues, this is a greed issue and one the ALL practice.    My intent was not to remove the wind from anyone's sail but rather to point out the areas deficient so that they can be discussed with improvements the goal. But to do that you have to know the truth and what that truth is.    The commercial interest are honed in on a few select issues in which they control all the variables and are not forthcoming in the least with their customers about the details. Failure is the only thing that drives these people to improvement. One way not to fail it to manage public "expectations". The set a bar they can clear and put their thumbs under the suspenders with chest puffed.... Only the internal data tells the story fully. As we don't have access to that for decades then we have to generate it ourselves. UOA's with data that matters.  
    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...