Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

jimbrown1 Enthusiast

jimbrown1

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, Epsilon Plus said:

Do the 5100s have a "0" setting? I'm still trying to wrap my head around if they are for trucks WITH a level or can level themselves, or do both in combination.

 

I have a BDS 2" level that I am happy with. Truck sits perfect and drives fine. I have no interest at all in any extra added height, but I'm looking for some good shocks to tow with. The 4600s sound fine to me but they are for stock height apparently. That's fine for the rear, but again, I'm 2" higher up front. Does this imply that the 4600s would be too short and top out a ton with a 2" up front? Will the 5100s work in front for me without adding any more lift?

 

Since I'm here, how do the shocks lift anyway? Valve the fluid up and put all the pressure on an internal spacer/solenoid that provides the lift? I suppose I could delete the BDS and just do 5100 but I'd imagine the shocks would last longer if they weren't artificially trying to support the weight of the front end up. Maybe I have it all wrong?

 

Not looking to do any off-road. Just bought a max GVWR 7,000# travel trailer and looking for ideas to help keep it planted where it should be.

 

Thanks for any tips/info.

I have the 5100 shocks with a Rugged Off Road 2" spacer under the front strut.  I couldn't stand the Ranchos and didn't want to use the strut as the lift.  I'm happy with the setup and the ride is great. 

  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, jimbrown1 said:

I have the 5100 shocks with a Rugged Off Road 2" spacer under the front strut.  I couldn't stand the Ranchos and didn't want to use the strut as the lift.  I'm happy with the setup and the ride is great. 

To @Epsilon Plus

 

Coil-overs work by placing the shock inside the coil spring, but that coil spring has to have an attachment or "perch" location on the shock itself. The Bilstein 5100's have 4 settings. The lowest setting is "stock" height. Top setting is about 1.8 inches above stock.

 

If you have a lift that uses shims above or below your coilover unit, and you are using stock shocks, then you can simply change out your shocks with the 4600's or the 5100's set at the lowest perch setting. Most people get the 5100's INSTEAD of using shims, because the spring perch can be set higher. The shock fluid is not the cause of the lift, the fact that the coil spring sits higher on the shock is what is doing the work. Like choking up on a baseball bat. So for example, you could get rid of the BDS hardware at the front of your truck and just use the Bilstein 5100's at the top setting. Supposedly you will get a better ride quality as well.

 

I have the Bilstein 5100's on my truck and they ride great. Way better than the Ranchos that I took out of there.

 

I hope that helps

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Love your dog! 

Thanks, Grump! Me too. One of the best dogs I've ever had. He's all "go, go, go!" and wants to be outside in the woods and mountains all the time "on the hunt."

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

Thanks, Grump! Me too. One of the best dogs I've ever had. He's all "go, go, go!" and wants to be outside in the woods and mountains all the time "on the hunt."

I love Beagles but he wife doesn't like their bay. We have this 17"  33# Rat (Rex). Rare to hear him.

He is a perfect truck dog. Travels really well and nobody is getting in the truck he doesn't know. 

Young man found that out trying to take my phone. Ops! Tinted glass LOL 

 

IMG_2273.JPG.1860a9f1768fdecd4803e0f55d91c76a.JPG

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I love Beagles but he wife doesn't like their bay. We have this 17"  33# Rat (Rex). Rare to hear him.

He is a perfect truck dog. Travels really well and nobody is getting in the truck he doesn't know. 

Young man found that out trying to take my phone. Ops! Tinted glass LOL 

 

IMG_2273.JPG.1860a9f1768fdecd4803e0f55d91c76a.JPG

Beautiful dog, Grumpy! I like the brindle coloring.

 

Here's Scout the Thundah Beagle at Mt. Washington this past weekend:

 

20200801_180908.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

Scout will really only bay when he's on a hot scent or has visually acquired a rabbit. He will more traditionally bark if theres someone at the door or just outside the house though. Other than that he doesnt really make a noise for not reason, so if he barks or bays, I have to get up and look around to see what he sees.

  • Thanks 1
Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted
On 8/4/2020 at 1:53 PM, jimbrown1 said:

I have the 5100 shocks with a Rugged Off Road 2" spacer under the front strut.  I couldn't stand the Ranchos and didn't want to use the strut as the lift.  I'm happy with the setup and the ride is great. 

 

On 8/5/2020 at 8:36 AM, ThundahBeagle said:

To @Epsilon Plus

 

Coil-overs work by placing the shock inside the coil spring, but that coil spring has to have an attachment or "perch" location on the shock itself. The Bilstein 5100's have 4 settings. The lowest setting is "stock" height. Top setting is about 1.8 inches above stock.

 

If you have a lift that uses shims above or below your coilover unit, and you are using stock shocks, then you can simply change out your shocks with the 4600's or the 5100's set at the lowest perch setting. Most people get the 5100's INSTEAD of using shims, because the spring perch can be set higher. The shock fluid is not the cause of the lift, the fact that the coil spring sits higher on the shock is what is doing the work. Like choking up on a baseball bat. So for example, you could get rid of the BDS hardware at the front of your truck and just use the Bilstein 5100's at the top setting. Supposedly you will get a better ride quality as well.

 

I have the Bilstein 5100's on my truck and they ride great. Way better than the Ranchos that I took out of there.

 

I hope that helps

 

Both these help.

 

Thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
Gears and Gadgets Enthusiast

Gears and Gadgets

Posted
Posted

I finally completed my 6112 & 5160 upgrade and I am pretty blown away with how much it changed the dynamics of the truck. The OEM Ranchos felt like they were all spring and no shock and were just very bouncy in general. The 6112’s added needed composure over highway and off-road. 

 

Ryan H New Member

Ryan H

Posted
Posted

I don't drive a 2014+ but I have a 2011 Silverado with 275/55r20 stock wheels and I'm upgrading the suspension this coming month.  I'm awaiting quotes from 2 different shops.  

Planning on 6112's in front at the 3rd setting and 5100 or 5160 in the rear.  My question is are people recommending UCA's for this?  I'd like to avoid spending the money if it's not needed.   I'll prob go with what the shop says, but I'd like to get opinions before I hear back.

 

  • 1 month later...
gastonhector Enthusiast

gastonhector

Posted
Posted
On 8/18/2020 at 2:14 AM, Gears and Gadgets said:

I finally completed my 6112 & 5160 upgrade and I am pretty blown away with how much it changed the dynamics of the truck. The OEM Ranchos felt like they were all spring and no shock and were just very bouncy in general. The 6112’s added needed composure over highway and off-road. 

 

Hello, good video, 

 what rotors do you have?

  • Thanks 1
vivalapalmer New Member

vivalapalmer

Posted
Posted

How do the 5100's ride at 0 with a 2" spacer vs. no spacer but spring perch on the highest setting?

 

What would be better all around for me to do. I currently have a 2" motofab spacer but I'm only looking to clear 33's or a little bit bigger and am willing to not have exactly 2" and remove my motofab rear block and go back to stock.

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, vivalapalmer said:

How do the 5100's ride at 0 with a 2" spacer vs. no spacer but spring perch on the highest setting?

 

What would be better all around for me to do. I currently have a 2" motofab spacer but I'm only looking to clear 33's or a little bit bigger and am willing to not have exactly 2" and remove my motofab rear block and go back to stock.

 

I think you have a couple of points of confusion here. Or I am confused about your post, one or the other. Either way, this response should cover it:

 

Firstly, the front, adjustable Bilstein 5100's are not meant to be used with a spacer. There is no reason to place them at the lowest setting and then use a spacer. If you are going to do that, just put the Bilstein on a higher setting of your choice. Mine are all the way up (almost 2 inches) and I like it. I'm sure the stock setting would be nice as well.

 

Secondly, you mention removing the rear block. The 5100 fronts are adjustable, but the rears are not, so you could still use a rear block if you wanted to.

 

I would think that 33's would fit with 2 inches of lift. They tuck 33's under the Trail Boss. That has 2 inches of lift and people sometimes say the 33's look small on it. I dont say that, but some people do.

 

I hope this helps.

vivalapalmer New Member

vivalapalmer

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ThundahBeagle said:

 

I think you have a couple of points of confusion here. Or I am confused about your post, one or the other. Either way, this response should cover it:

 

Firstly, the front, adjustable Bilstein 5100's are not meant to be used with a spacer. There is no reason to place them at the lowest setting and then use a spacer. If you are going to do that, just put the Bilstein on a higher setting of your choice. Mine are all the way up (almost 2 inches) and I like it. I'm sure the stock setting would be nice as well.

 

Secondly, you mention removing the rear block. The 5100 fronts are adjustable, but the rears are not, so you could still use a rear block if you wanted to.

 

I would think that 33's would fit with 2 inches of lift. They tuck 33's under the Trail Boss. That has 2 inches of lift and people sometimes say the 33's look small on it. I dont say that, but some people do.

 

I hope this helps.

Yes, it does help somewhat! Thanks for the response. I know the rears are not adjustable, I had full 5100's on my tacoma. I just know that with the 2" spacer the front looked nose high, and with 1.85", I think if I went back to stock the truck might look similar. I only added the rear block because the 2" spacer up front was too much.

 

But thanks for clearing that up, if I want 5100's all around, then dont use the spacer. I'm worried because to use the 2" motofab spacer you have to cut some of the studs off on the shock mount. Hopefully there is still enough bolt to get the shock mount in with the spacer out, securely.

  • 3 weeks later...
ForumUser Enthusiast

ForumUser

Posted
Posted

So, I read dozens of the pages on this thread - didn't find my question discussed ?

 

2017 Silverado High Country with 6.2L - I would like to "tighten" up the handling without raising, lowering, etc ... don't mind a bit harder ride, but really hate it when this things starts hanging in corners like on sharp interstate exits ...

 

I put Bilstein HDs on an older Ford SportTrac and it was an amazing difference ...

 

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 326 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...