Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yellow/Blue = 4600

Silver/Black = 5100

 

Both a big upgrade over the stock shocks. Go with the 4600 if you want to keep stock height or are needing maximum control for towing or want to run a leveling spacer. Go with the 5100 if you want to level the truck without a spacer or if you like to go offroad.

Running stock 16 1500 crew z71. I have a Leer cap on back which probably adds 300 lbs and already squats the back a bit over stock. Would there be a noticeable benefit to just do the rears with 4600 or 5100 simply because I can do it myself? I don't go off road that much and would like a smooth ride on the highway.

 

Do the 5100s that are adjustable, do they actually raise the front all by themselves? Or is it just to account for a seperate lift or spacer? If I wanted to raise the front say an inch to level it out a bit would you need to replace other suspension parts and get an alignment, or is all you need the are the 5100s?

Thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

5100 front shocks have a circlip that raises a perch that the coil spring rests on. Raising the circlip raises the front of the vehicle. I have mine set at the third setting which leaves me about 1" of rake. I also have a topper (ARE) on mine.

 

You will need an alignment if you raise the vehicle.

Posted

5100 front shocks have a circlip that raises a perch that the coil spring rests on. Raising the circlip raises the front of the vehicle. I have mine set at the third setting which leaves me about 1" of rake. I also have a topper (ARE) on mine.

 

You will need an alignment if you raise the vehicle.

Thanks for the info. How was the ride quality after the 5100s with the cap on the back? I noticed adding the cap alone really tamed the rear bounce from how it drove with an empty bed.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

You should only see improvements in the way it handles and carries the weight of the cap. We recommend you go with the 5100s. The front shocks have an adjustable spring seat to level out the front. All you need is the shock set, they come with everything required to install and level the vehicle, no additional parts needed :)

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well to be honest I'm not too thrilled with the rear ride. It's a little jarring. I had a Tacoma with Bilstein 5160 rear reservoir shocks that rode much nicer. I may put the stockers back on.

Edited by Threerun
Posted

Could I clear a 285/50/22 Nitto G2 with Bilstein 5100? That is a 33.2" tire at 11.2" width. Or even without any mod? The stock 285/45/22 is 32.1" and also 11.2" width.

 

275/60/20 fit without any modifications--that's a 33" at 10.8" width.

Posted

It will depend on the offset & backspace of your wheel, that tire is wide and may rub the upper control arm. Height wise it should be no problem to fit with the BIlstein opn the top setting.

  • Like 1
Posted

So, according to the pdf, are we really only looking at 1.8 of front lift on the Sierra/Silverado with the 6112's?

 

Anyone know if these numbers are confirmed?

 

Thanks.

 

 

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/off-road.pdf

 

Not confirmed yet - check out this thread for the most recent 6112 info: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/190363-bilstein-6112-coilovers-5160-rear-shock-interest-thread-50-sets-co/?hl=6112

Posted

I have been thinking of putting lowering shackles on mine to try and even the rake. Would either of these shocks be good for this. I would like to take some of the bite out of the Z60 harshness. Sprinkle GSM in front would really probably help. I am 2wd and extended cab.

 

What the heck does Sprinkle GSM in front would really probably help. My phone must have auto corrected that. I was thinking springs in front would probably really help.

 

Would my truck benefit more from 4600 or 5100's? I am wanting some of the Z60 harshness taken away. Expansion joints on the interstate and bridges currently suck.

Posted

LOL! If you are lowering the truck, go with the 4600 as they are shorter than the 5100s.

 

Thanks man for the reply. At this time I only want to lower the rear with shackles. No plans for the front.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2017 CCSB 4X4 with the 6.2L (L86) and Max Trailering Pkg. I tow a 34' Airstream trailer (9,100 pounds and 1,100 tongue weight. I want to maintain the factory ride height, but I'd like a more controlled ride, especially towing. I want the damping to be more controlled...not harsh.

 

Would the 4600 series Bilsteins be an improvement over the factory shocks?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

  • Like 1
Posted

Are their any Bilstein's for lifted trucks? I have a 7" lift on mine but I'm not too impressed with the shocks that came with it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 792 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
    • That’s what I’m wondering is if the stock backspacing of the factory wheels will clear new upper control arms and such  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...