Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Why is that? If I buy them i plan on going with the third setting and am curious why you would go with the highest instead. I figure you will achieve better ride on the third setting instead of the highest

I spoke at length with bilstein engineers they claim ride difference is negligible. I can go into further details if you'd like. I've also drove a truck set on 2nd to highest and my truck set on max height. Myself and the guy who owns the truck not on max agree there is no noticeable difference in ride quality

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Installed the Bilstein 5100's on the rear today. Firmer ride and the rear stays more planted. Much improved. Next on the to do list is the fronts. I will be replacing the front RC level /lift with the Bilstein's.

 

post-167554-0-02708400-1493174263.jpg

 

post-167554-0-66394800-1493174278.jpg

post-167554-0-02708400-1493174263.jpg

post-167554-0-66394800-1493174278.jpg

post-167554-0-02708400-1493174263.jpg

post-167554-0-66394800-1493174278.jpg

post-167554-0-02708400-1493174263.jpg

post-167554-0-66394800-1493174278.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Oh no, sorry to here of the install troubles. So, lets first check the part number to make sure you got the right shocks. Are they factory upper mounts, or aftermarket like Monroe?

 

 

5100s all the way around. 1st or 2nd setting only on the front.

I have since found out the problem. So i called bilstein and the tech asked me if I have a denali with the magentic auto ride. I said yes i have a denali but didnt know about the magneride. He went on the say that bilstein currently does not have anything compatible with that system at the moment.

 

So i opted for the rough country 2.5" leveling kit that as the small bracket to extend the sensor rod. (I wanted the suspensionMAXX kit but with CAD exchange rate and shipping, would have been way too much)

 

Ill be sure to post some pics when its done

Edited by Mg1221
Posted

5100s all the way around. 1st or 2nd setting only on the front.

 

I just spent the past two hours reading ALL 60 pages in this thread and I am still nowhere nearer to making a decision.

 

I am not partial to keeping or removing the 1" front spacer. I want the best, most controlled ride possible.

 

My opinions are this:

 

COA #1: Keep 1" front spacer and install 5100's at stock height setting

 

COA #2: Remove 1" front spacer and install 5100's at third height setting

 

A 1" spacer is really nothing to begin with so I shouldn't have any issues. However, the higher the 5100 height setting, it appears the firmer the ride is - this is why I am partial to COA #1. However, with the 5100's being slightly longer than stock shocks, there might be suspension geometry issues adding them to my 1" spacer (albeit the issue seems minimal).

 

I am installing these shocks because my stock ride sucks and I have the most uncontrollable 'porpoising' while towing.

 

Final suggestion?

Posted

 

I just spent the past two hours reading ALL 60 pages in this thread and I am still nowhere nearer to making a decision.

 

I am not partial to keeping or removing the 1" front spacer. I want the best, most controlled ride possible.

 

My opinions are this:

 

COA #1: Keep 1" front spacer and install 5100's at stock height setting

 

COA #2: Remove 1" front spacer and install 5100's at third height setting

 

A 1" spacer is really nothing to begin with so I shouldn't have any issues. However, the higher the 5100 height setting, it appears the firmer the ride is - this is why I am partial to COA #1. However, with the 5100's being slightly longer than stock shocks, there might be suspension geometry issues adding them to my 1" spacer (albeit the issue seems minimal).

 

I am installing these shocks because my stock ride sucks and I have the most uncontrollable 'porpoising' while towing.

 

Final suggestion?

Bilstein highly suggest no other type of level blocks on front end. Probably in this thread I already stated this but just in case I'll say it again. I spoke at length with bilstein engineers regarding the front height setting and ride quality. They stated ride quality between the setting is negligible. This is why the highest setting doesn't quite lvl the truck (less than 1/2 inch off) because any higher setting would begin to deminish ride quality. I also was lucky enough to ride in a truck on the 2nd to highest setting and it rides no different than mine on max. Put your mind at ease quit taking all us internet certified mechanics as fact and call bilstein yourself they are awesome.

With that being said the ride is amazing. Worth every penny to get ride of the bouncy bouncy crap ranchos. Live near so IN come on by let's go for a ride.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Just got the 5100's on all 4 corners, front set at max height. Big improvement in looks, and the ride is better in every way compared to the Ranchos. Truck had 32K miles and the rear Ranchos were toast for the second time.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the continued orders everyone!!

 

Be sure to check here for the latest Bilstein shock deals - http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/197020-set-of-4-bilstein-5100s-under-350-delivered/


 

I just spent the past two hours reading ALL 60 pages in this thread and I am still nowhere nearer to making a decision.

 

I am not partial to keeping or removing the 1" front spacer. I want the best, most controlled ride possible.

 

My opinions are this:

 

COA #1: Keep 1" front spacer and install 5100's at stock height setting

 

COA #2: Remove 1" front spacer and install 5100's at third height setting

 

A 1" spacer is really nothing to begin with so I shouldn't have any issues. However, the higher the 5100 height setting, it appears the firmer the ride is - this is why I am partial to COA #1. However, with the 5100's being slightly longer than stock shocks, there might be suspension geometry issues adding them to my 1" spacer (albeit the issue seems minimal).

 

I am installing these shocks because my stock ride sucks and I have the most uncontrollable 'porpoising' while towing.

 

Final suggestion?

 

Option 2 :)

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just installed my 5100s on my 2015 Chevy 1500. I did the rears a few weeks back and finally did the fronts today. I installed them on the highest setting. Took me a while on the first side but the second was pretty fast. I took it for a drive and it's great. Firmed up the front but in a good way. My wife was complaining about how the front end felt since we've had the truck. Took it down some rough gravel roads, bumps, train tracks and am very happy with them. Going to get it aligned Saturday morning. It felt good but I know with any front end work to get it checked. Now to get my air springs and compressor installed on the rear. Just trying to decide on what to go with.post-168486-0-83098300-1493342784_thumb.jpg

post-168486-0-83098300-1493342784_thumb.jpg

post-168486-0-83098300-1493342784_thumb.jpg

post-168486-0-83098300-1493342784_thumb.jpg

Edited by spartantx117
  • Like 3
Posted

Just installed my 5100s on my 2015 Chevy 1500. I did the rears a few weeks back and finally did the fronts today. I installed them on the highest setting. Took me a while on the first side but the second was pretty fast. I took it for a drive and it's great. Firmed up the front but in a good way. My wife was complaining about how the front end felt since we've had the truck. Took it down some rough gravel roads, bumps, train tracks and am very happy with them. Going to get it aligned Saturday morning. It felt good but I know with any front end work to get it checked. Now to get my air springs and compressor installed on the rear. Just trying to decide on what to go with.attachicon.gifIMG_611.jpg

 

What spring compressor did you use on the front and how did it go? Ive had no issues with compressing car springs with auto zones ones but second guessing using those on the truck coils.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

What spring compressor did you use on the front and how did it go? Ive had no issues with compressing car springs with auto zones ones but second guessing using those on the truck coils.

  • Like 1
Posted

I used the spring compressor from Autozone. I'll be honest I was really hesitant and a little worried but they worked well enough. Without my compressor to pull them in I don't know that I could have done it though.

 

 

What spring compressor did you use on the front and how did it go? Ive had no issues with compressing car springs with auto zones ones but second guessing using those on the truck coils.

  • Like 2
Posted

if you just wanna level out the truck go 5100's...just installed them,gained 2 inches and seems to ride smoother..but if you gotta off road maybe 6112 the way to go..found them on Amazon for just under a Hundo apieve.

  • Like 2
Posted

 

What spring compressor did you use on the front and how did it go? Ive had no issues with compressing car springs with auto zones ones but second guessing using those on the truck coils.

 

Rental compressors should work fine on these, the spring rate isnt as high as some cars. You could always bring the parts to a mechanic shop, shouldn't be more than $50 to assemble new shocks.

but if you gotta off road maybe 6112 the way to go

 

6112s are not out yet, few more months.

 

 

Bilstein front, rear, and complete sets with GMTrucks discount - http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/197020-set-of-4-bilstein-5100s-under-350-delivered/

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I installed my 1500's 16000 miles ago, highest setting. No complaints!

Thanks MRT!

Edited by Bwoodkid
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...