Jump to content

5.3l w/ 3:08 rear

Beer Belly

By Beer Belly
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

Don't take the salesman word. Check the window sticker and code in the glove box!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Got the 3:42 rear.....salesman said "it's part of the Trailer Equipment Package"....I told him "that's good, because that would of squashed the deal". This truck does seem to have a fair bit of giddy up.....not sure the budget manager (Wife) will allow the higher octane :idiot:

3.42 isn't part of the trailer equipment package.

 

Trailering equipment, includes trailer hitch, 7-pin and 4-pin connectors

 

base sierra - Includes (G80) locking rear differential.

sle - Includes (G80) locking rear differential on 2WD models. Included with (GAT) All-Terrain Package, (NHT) Max Trailering Package, (PDA) Texas SLE Value Package (PEC) Carbon-22 Edition or (PDU) SLE Value Package.

 

STD on SLT

Brian S. Enthusiast

Brian S.

Posted
Posted

That's not the best gear to tow with.

 

It drops the tow rating to 6600 pounds.

 

So that's even less once you start adding in things like the passengers and cargo.

How much tow weight do most people need though?

 

21' Ranger bass boat with a 250 motor- 3000lbs

 

http://www.boattest.com/review/ranger-boats/3016_z521-comanche

 

20' camper- 3000lbs

 

http://gulfstreamrvtrailers.com/amerilite/specs.php

 

Snowmobiles- 400-700lbs each

 

http://www.snowgoer.com/snowmobiling-features/2010-snowmobiles-weights/0304/

 

The things most of us tow with half ton trucks are nowhere close to 6600lbs..

 

I tow a pretty typical lake boat for the Midwest, 17'8", 150hp outboard. The whole rig loaded full and full of gas probably only weighs 2000lbs, and the 4.3l Silverado with 3.42 gears I had last year towed it easily. I was never thinking,"Oh man this sucks, why won't this thing go?!?".

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

I ended up with the 3.08, father in law bought the vehicle new and I got too good of a deal buying it from him to pass it up. Thought it would bug me but has a good bit of get up and go and i mostly commute with it anyway. The few times a year I tow something it will be sufficient.

Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
Posted

don't get the 3.08 - 90% that do have it wish they got the 3.42 ....just read the forum

Yup.... Here i am about to dump $2K to swap my 3.08s for 4.10s in my 4x4.....and its worth every penny since im om 33s now and planning on 35s

silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted

I have the 2014 Silverado cc , 5.3 with 3.08. it came with 255/70r17 tires. I do mostly all highway driving and get really good fuel mileage. I tow my 2000 lbs lund probass boat about 20 times a year , as compared to my 2006 sierra cc 5.3 with 3.42 the 2014 would blow the doors off it. whether just driving or pulling the trailer. these new engines have a lot more power and torque than previous 5.3s. if you are leaving it stock they are no problem, if you are going to do a lift and bigger tires you will not like having 3.08 gearas

Brian S. Enthusiast

Brian S.

Posted
Posted

I have the 2014 Silverado cc , 5.3 with 3.08. it came with 255/70r17 tires. I do mostly all highway driving and get really good fuel mileage. I tow my 2000 lbs lund probass boat about 20 times a year , as compared to my 2006 sierra cc 5.3 with 3.42 the 2014 would blow the doors off it. whether just driving or pulling the trailer. these new engines have a lot more power and torque than previous 5.3s. if you are leaving it stock they are no problem, if you are going to do a lift and bigger tires you will not like having 3.08 gearas

Exactly. If a person was planning to put giant mudder tires and performance parts on, the 3.08s weren't the choice to start with. For the 90% of us driving the trucks as is and towing 3500lbs or less, the 3.08s are probably fine.

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

I ended up with the 3.08, father in law bought the vehicle new and I got too good of a deal buying it from him to pass it up. Thought it would bug me but has a good bit of get up and go and i mostly commute with it anyway. The few times a year I tow something it will be sufficient.

 

So update, I actually have the 3.42 haha. I went to look at window sticker for something else and noticed it listed 3.08 on left side of sticker and 3.42 on right. Thought that was odd so I checked the RPO codes, turns out I have 3.42. Glad towing is a littler higher and not worried about throwing some 33s on there now.

Donvan514 Enthusiast

Donvan514

Posted
Posted

So update, I actually have the 3.42 haha. I went to look at window sticker for something else and noticed it listed 3.08 on left side of sticker and 3.42 on right. Thought that was odd so I checked the RPO codes, turns out I have 3.42. Glad towing is a littler higher and not worried about throwing some 33s on there now.

 

That fooled me too. I thought my dealer sold me a V6 for a second...lol
ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

Running 89 or 91 is almost a must even for the 5.3. They seem to constantly pull timing on 87 and the economy definitely suffers. You won't get 400 HP with 91 but you're almost definitely not getting the power you paid for if you run 87.

 

What's the actual MPG difference? I run 87 octane in mine and pay about $2.15/gallon currently. If I step up to 89, the price jumps to about $2.45/gallon. 91 runs me closer to about $2.70/gallon. That's almost a 25% increase in cost for the fuel, but I highly doubt I'm going to see a similar increase in MPG. It's all about cost-per-mile. So, while I might get 21MPG with 91, it's way cheaper per mile to run 87 and get 18MPG.

 

18 miles for $2.15 = 11.9 cents per mile

 

 

 

I would have to achieve almost 23MPG on the 91 octane to break even for putting it in the tank. Anything less, and I'm wasting money.

 

These numbers are all based on summer blend fuels. Current running total of MPG on my truck is below 18 because we've started getting the winter blend fuel and MPG tanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...