Battery Replacement

2017SierraSLT · November 9, 2017

So I assume you have more than 36k miles?

TenofMe · November 10, 2017

23 hours ago, 2017SierraSLT said:

So I assume you have more than 36k miles?

Just turned 40K.

afireinside7444 · November 12, 2017

Your all making me parinoid now...... im 42k 2.5 years old and pretty darn cold here in Michigan currently. Ive had good luck with Walmart (satan mart) battries. Used them in about 8 cars. My momd died at about 2 years and they warrantied it. Its now about 4 years old at this point. They are made by a large battery manufacturer cant remember who now.

duquephart · January 29, 2018

On 11/10/2017 at 10:07 AM, 2Speed said:

Just turned 40K.

Day before warranty up: "Your battery is fine."

Day after warranty up: "Your battery needs replacing."

Edited January 29, 2018 by duquephart

tnchevy · January 29, 2018

Went 11 years and 125k miles on the OEM battery in my 2002 silvy! Started getting worried at the 10 year mark and carried one of those booster box's with me and sure enough it crapped out across the road from an Autozone of all places. My jeep GC is also going to be a pain to change when the time comes, it is under the passenger seat and is about 30% bigger than a regular sized battery.

Malibu SS · January 29, 2018

I've had good luck with Duracell batteries from "Batteries + Bulbs ". Mine is located in Ann Arbor Michigan. They will change your battery at the store.

Colossus · January 30, 2018

This will be my next battery I try out. A trusted source uses these in his fleet of trucks and is pleased with their performance over other brands.

http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/applications/automotive/

duquephart · January 30, 2018

There must, somewhere, be a procedure written up. At the dealer this would be passed off to the bottom rung guy when he ran out of oil changes to do. He must have something to print out and follow. Anyone have access to shop manual pages for those of us who would appreciate Elmer Fudd instructions??

BigBadSierra · January 30, 2018

On 8/12/2016 at 8:47 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

I think the issue is you have to remove that structural cross member that attaches to the fender in order to be able to lift the battery out and they don't want to touch anything except for the battery itself. You know because out of all of that engine bay space, GM had to shove the battery in a tight corner like that probably to drive business to dealers which seems to be the logic behind most of the things they do. Your friend, as long has he has a good socket wrench set, should be able to install the battery himself just fine.

They have found issues with the safety systems failing in front end collisions. GM has relocated the batteries in allot of their vehicles. It took me two days of looking to find the battery in the 2010 Traverse I bought. It was behind the passenger seat in the floor. I know they did this to the trucks for the same reason due to air bag failures. It's safer but as with most of these fixes it's a pain to deal with.

Silverado-Hareek · January 30, 2018

23 minutes ago, BigBadSierra said:

They have found issues with the safety systems failing in front end collisions. GM has relocated the batteries in allot of their vehicles. It took me two days of looking to find the battery in the 2010 Traverse I bought. It was behind the passenger seat in the floor. I know they did this to the trucks for the same reason due to air bag failures. It's safer but as with most of these fixes it's a pain to deal with.

Yeah I guess that makes sense. It's interesting actually that my comment has been resurrected because I just replaced the battery in my 2014 last month. It took me 45 minutes but it is doable yourself. The hardest part to deal with is the size of the battery....you can't just lift it and set it in place because the coolant expansion tank is in the way. You have to turn the batter on it's side, then angle it into the location by inserting it in a direction toward the passenger seat to clear the expansion tank and get it into the hole, then you can rotate the battery back to the upright/vertical position and set it down all the way. Here's a good YouTube video on it:

duquephart · January 30, 2018

15 minutes ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Yeah I guess that makes sense. It's interesting actually that my comment has been resurrected because I just replaced the battery in my 2014 last month. It took me 45 minutes but it is doable yourself. The hardest part to deal with is the size of the battery....you can't just lift it and set it in place because the coolant expansion tank is in the way. You have to turn the batter on it's side, then angle it into the location by inserting it in a direction toward the passenger seat to clear the expansion tank and get it into the hole, then you can rotate the battery back to the upright/vertical position and set it down all the way. Here's a good YouTube video on it:

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

Spurshot · January 31, 2018

12 hours ago, duquephart said:

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

It's a simple job. Really not much more difficult than any other modern car. The diagonal brace is a couple bolts. Under the positive "cap/block" (red plastic doohickey) is a simple terminal. The plastic block snaps onto the battery top.

Edited January 31, 2018 by Spurshot

Silverado-Hareek · February 2, 2018

On 1/30/2018 at 9:25 AM, duquephart said:

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

On 1/30/2018 at 10:16 PM, Spurshot said:

It's a simple job. Really not much more difficult than any other modern car. The diagonal brace is a couple bolts. Under the positive "cap/block" (red plastic doohickey) is a simple terminal. The plastic block snaps onto the battery top.

Correct the metal cross bars, whatever you want to call them, come out with the removal of 4 bolts.....1 bolt at the fender, 1 bolt near the windshield, 1 bolt where the two crossbars intersect, and 1 bolt at the bottom of the vertical metal bar near the bottom of the battery.

As for that black box that sits on top of the battery, I didn't do anything with that like the guy in the video did as far as removing cables that attach within the box. I simply disconnected the black negative cable, and then disconnected the main red terminal cable and the block box on top went with it. The black box sort of clips into place on top of the battery...it's pretty simple to remove and put back. You'll see what I'm talking about when you go to do it. Just remember to remove the metal cross bars first, and then you can disconnect the battery cables and push them out of the way.

Edited February 2, 2018 by Silverado-Hareek

djthumper · February 27, 2018

Man! I just got finished replacing my battery with a Napa AGM. Who would have thought you would have to play twister with a battery of that size to get that swapped out.