2017 Brakes vs 2016

Chad2815 · September 25, 2016

The previous generation GMT900 used brakes manufactured at Akebono aka Ambrake im Elizabethtown Kentucky but they had a seperate part number that was made overseas. The Akebono brakes were awesome (got 93,00 out of a set on my Avalanche). Wonder if this is a similar situation where they changed manufacturers.

WilliamBos · September 25, 2016

Believe it or not but i think the brakes on my new 13 stopped my truck and boat better then my 15. Wife notices it too. Probably why big trucks stil use drums

The brakes on my 11 stop way better than my 04 did. I don't miss all wheel discs.

Thomcat · September 26, 2016

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't new rotors always feel a bit inadequate until they get broken in, and then braking power increases?

Yes, correct...and not just rotors, but both rotors and linings...........until the high spots wear off the surface of the new brake pad linings to mate with the rotors surfaces. It is possible for one to screw them up during break-in and braking power will decrease instead of the normal increase after break-in. That's why I always try to get a new car with less than 10-15 miles on it. Some maniac test driving the vehicle or when swapping between dealerships or a new owner with frequent hard stops can heat glaze the surface of the linings and once glazed it will won't get any better until you remove and resurface the linings.

From the manual:

Avoid making hard stops for the first 322 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet

broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this

breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings. Do not tow a trailer during.......

WilliamBos · September 26, 2016

Great info to know. Thanks.

Yes, correct...and not just rotors, but both rotors and linings...........until the high spots wear off the surface of the new brake pad linings to mate with the rotors surfaces. It is possible for one to screw them up during break-in and braking power will decrease instead of the normal increase after break-in. That's why I always try to get a new car with less than 10-15 miles on it. Some maniac test driving the vehicle or when swapping between dealerships or a new owner with frequent hard stops can heat glaze the surface of the linings and once glazed it will won't get any better until you remove and resurface the linings.

From the manual:

Avoid making hard stops for the first 322 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet

broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this

breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings. Do not tow a trailer during.......

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 27, 2016

The previous generation GMT900 used brakes manufactured at Akebono aka Ambrake im Elizabethtown Kentucky but they had a seperate part number that was made overseas. The Akebono brakes were awesome (got 93,00 out of a set on my Avalanche). Wonder if this is a similar situation where they changed manufacturers.

K2s are still using Akebono components -- crawl under your truck, and the name's cast into the back surface of the calipers. Can't speak to where pads were manufactured, but Akebono-sourced pads were also OE fitment.

I've always been happy with the performance of my '14's brakes since new. In fact, I was initially quite surprised at the bite and pedal feel upon first drive. It's now about two years in and I'm only now at a point where I'd consider replacing pads. Certainly ordering Akebono pads for the brake work to come.

Would not be surprised if OP's pads weren't bedded properly. Here's the prescribed burnishing technique from the GM service manual:

Warning: Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system. This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.

2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Note: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.

3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.

BigBadSierra · September 27, 2016

I have had to make to emergency type stops one for a deer and the second when a Pickup ran a stop sign.

The brakes sucked both times tires were locking and the truck slides to the right bad...

Going to have it looked at.

My 2014 stopped strait as an arrow.

JeremyW426 · September 27, 2016

1500's whether its 2WD or 4WD from 2014-2017 all use the same pads and rotors and as far as how they feel that must all just be based on driving habits and wear related.

FishinJ · September 27, 2016

My 2015 breaks feel good when stopping with or without the boat behind it.

KaptKyle · September 27, 2016

My 2016's brakes kick-in and grab as soon as you touch the pedal, maybe even before!
But, she only has 51 miles as we speak, yes, 000051.
Maybe that will change with age.

Thomcat · September 28, 2016

My 2016's brakes kick-in and grab as soon as you touch the pedal, maybe even before!

But, she only has 51 miles as we speak, yes, 000051.

Maybe that will change with age.

First look through the holes in the wheels at the condition of the rotors for rust, if heavily rusted repeated stops should grind it off and normal braking return......if not surface rust and abrupt grabbing continues it should be looked at....lack of normal modulation could be a defective vacuum release on the booster or dragging calipers. See if the vehicle will crawl forward on level ground at idle speed in Drive with foot off the brake to rule out dragging caliper(s).

KaptKyle · September 28, 2016

First look through the holes in the wheels at the condition of the rotors for rust, if heavily rusted repeated stops should grind it off and normal braking return......if not surface rust and abrupt grabbing continues it should be looked at....lack of normal modulation could be a defective vacuum release on the booster or dragging calipers. See if the vehicle will crawl forward on level ground at idle speed in Drive with foot off the brake to rule out dragging caliper(s).

I was making a joke as to how good the brakes are, I can assure you that everything is as it should be

CounterMeasure · September 28, 2016

Check your parking brake travel. When I got my truck, just looking at the pedal would cause the truck to stop. Very quick and tight engagement. As the miles went on, brake travel increased. I also noticed the parking brake travel necessary increased as well as the cable stretched from use. I readjusted the cable, and the brake pedal travel went right back to "brand new".

Edit: I suspect that the rears can open up more than the fronts, so tightening the cable causes them to not open as far. Thus, engagement is more even between front and rear until they all engage enough to give pedal pressure feedback.