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Posted

Oh, and not even 5,000 mles on my truck yet and my valves already look like shit.  I've changed the oil 3 times. 

 

intakevalve.thumb.jpg.f77d199cb7834827b17e592727967e06.jpg

Posted
Oh, and not even 5,000 mles on my truck yet and my valves already look like shit.  I've changed the oil 3 times. 
 
intakevalve.thumb.jpg.f77d199cb7834827b17e592727967e06.jpg
These trucks are direct injected, they don't get the benefit of the atomized fuel cleaning the valves as it enters the cylinders. A good pcv catch can is almost a necessity.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
8 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Youre taking to long

SLP is taking too long to get me a new manifold 

Posted

I did get my New Handheld  tuner and base tune in today, so at least I'll be able to drive to Maine for my dyno tune.  

  • Like 1
Posted

So my new manifold showed up today, (in a Roush Racing box :sick:) so I got the installed finished.  Pretty straight forward, here's a bunch of pictures.  

 

roush.thumb.jpg.4a5ba069e8d87a88df41a66443973b60.jpg

 

Intake

 

supercharger1.thumb.jpg.14962f22e17ce8a2616d6f666ebb1478.jpg

 

Boost gauge fitting

 

supercharger2.thumb.jpg.1fbc3b9eb248a7296533096eb90b8dc4.jpg

 

Blower. The seal is and o ring that fits in a grove on the manifold. It was a pain in the ass to seat:

 

supercharger3.thumb.jpg.f9ba276c41e225691505475e543ee04f.jpg

 

Pullies

 

supercharger4.thumb.jpg.034a4c2dc90fdb05d06f2737f18838fa.jpg

 

And done. I added the Gates HD belt, it came with a regular Gates belt. 

 

supercharger6.thumb.jpg.3d6d3dad615a38ec264483ba5f63ecfe.jpgsupercharger5.thumb.jpg.136a21dbd4e81e1c7d2777ed09b1e7a5.jpg

 

The SLP intake it came with. I'd rather use the stock airbox, but I'll have to rig something up later for that. 

 

supercharger7.thumb.jpg.0b12c39cf816ab442cab8e60b6d4d49e.jpg

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Posted (edited)

It's running.I dont trust the tune but at least I can drive it to the tuner. I'm showing 10 psi on my boost gauge at wide open throttle. 

 

Also, I think there's an issue with the T harness for the IAT relocation because it's reading - 40 degrees, so it's open somewhere. So right now I'm reading IAT off the MAF still. 

Edited by qwank
  • Like 1
Posted
21 minutes ago, 300 Blackout said:

Why don’t you trust the tune? It’s my understanding that the tune included with the kit was developed by SLP (ROUSH Performance).

The SLP tune doesn't work for a '17, so the company I bought the charger from told me they would get me a custom tune for free since they told me one was included before I bought it. 

 

So I've been working with the tuner for the last couple days trying to get it right. 6 tunes later it's running, but he said he couldn't get it any closer without a wideband A/F gauge installed. So that's why I don't trust it, i figured he would be able to see everything he needed with the data logs, I sent. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hopefully you can get the tune dialed in perfect to your liking.

 

Does it run like a bat out of hell now? :) 

Posted
21 hours ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

Hopefully you can get the tune dialed in perfect to your liking.

 

Does it run like a bat out of hell now? :) 

It definitely has way more power, I haven't gotten on it too many times though because I don't trust the tune. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So today I replaced my spark plugs with NGK 5107 plugs. These are the plugs that come in the Whipple supercharger kit and were recommended by my tuner. He said to gap them to 0.022"-0.024". 

 

He also said to remove the active grille shutter and he would delete the codes for it. So I did that today. The ambient air temp sensor for the radio temp is on the bottom of the shutter, but the mounting hole for the '14-'16 trucks is still on the' 17+ trucks, so I modified the harness and installed the sensor in the older Truck location. 

 

Here's some pics in case anyone wants to delete these too. 

 

The red circle is the new location of the sensor, and the green circle is the connector for the harness. I forgot to take a before pic so I stole a pic from @BlackBear88 since that was the first one I found in a search. LOL 

 

airtempsensor.thumb.jpg.4c8cfbe7384cbf83e3afc45bbe32b1d1.jpg

 

Original temp sensor location.  You can actually see the new location to move it to in this pic also.  

 

grilleshutters.jpg.e9e7addc6cecf5a6fa065e59c15cb809.jpg

 

 

Edited by qwank
Posted
21 hours ago, qwank said:

So today I replaced my spark plugs with NGK 5107 plugs. These are the plugs that come in the Whipple supercharger kit and were recommended by my tuner. He said to gap them to 0.022"-0.024". 

 

He also said to remove the active grille shutter and he would delete the codes for it. So I did that today. The ambient air temp sensor for the radio temp is on the bottom of the shutter, but the mounting hole for the '14-'16 trucks is still on the' 17+ trucks, so I modified the harness and installed the sensor in the older Truck location. 

 

Here's some pics in case anyone wants to delete these too. 

 

The red circle is the new location of the sensor, and the green circle is the connector for the harness. I forgot to take a before pic so I stole a pic from @BlackBear88 since that was the first one I found in a search. LOL 

 

airtempsensor.thumb.jpg.4c8cfbe7384cbf83e3afc45bbe32b1d1.jpg

 

Original temp sensor location.  You can actually see the new location to move it to in this pic also.  

 

grilleshutters.jpg.e9e7addc6cecf5a6fa065e59c15cb809.jpg

 

 

What is active grill shutters?

Posted
2 hours ago, Nasty said:

What is active grill shutters?

 

2017 and newer trucks and suvs have that shutter on the front. It closes at high speeds to reduce drag. I think it also closes when it's cold to help heat up the coolant faster too. 

 

Deleting it will make sure I'm always getting air flow to the heat exchanger. 

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