Jump to content

Rust on 2014 Silverado?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've seen many threads, but still not helping.

 

2014 Silverado Z71. Seems to have a some rust underneath, is it too much? Should I address this? Currently live in FL, truck came from up north (There for a year).

 

Pictures are attached. Can provide more as these aren't the only areas. Thanks for any assistance.

post-167269-0-33138400-1483465718_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-21238800-1483465725_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-95139900-1483465760_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-33138400-1483465718_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-21238800-1483465725_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-95139900-1483465760_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-33138400-1483465718_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-21238800-1483465725_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-95139900-1483465760_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-33138400-1483465718_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-21238800-1483465725_thumb.jpg

post-167269-0-95139900-1483465760_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Not advanced yet. That's how a rust belt State vehicle will look if a wet/iced salted vehicle is parked in a heated garage instead of leaving it outside in the cold, or the salt residue is not flushed from the frame with water ASAP. The newer models have plastic coated brake lines which should hold off corrosion, but you have to make sure the salt is removed from the steel gas tank vent and supply lines which will rust badly.

 

Other than stripping the frame, best bet is to scrape and coat the areas with rust restorer compound, and undercoat.

Posted

From up north that's probably par for the course but it is worrisome if you're not used to seeing it. I'd be worried if the body had any rust though. I once had a new 2000 F150 whose door panels start rusting out in earnest after the first 15 months. Also, it had thousands of teensy brown rust spots on the hood and top of the cab in the same time frame. Easy to spot on a white truck. I ended up taking sandpaper to the rust under the doors and spraying with white Rust Oleum the day before I traded it off for a 2003 Ranger FX4 and it looked almost new again! Had the Ranger until last year and the body never rusted anywhere. But underneath was a rusty nasty mess. I blame most of that mess underneath on the road conditions at a steel mill where I work moreso than the salt on city streets and roads.

Posted

Fluid film is a great lanolin based protectant that you can spray the undercarriage of your vehicle with, keeps it from rusting and keeps the metal protected in like new, does not seal and rest and water like undercoating does. All natural and keeps the underside like new

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Fluid film is a great lanolin based protectant that you can spray the undercarriage of your vehicle with, keeps it from rusting and keeps the metal protected in like new, does not seal and rest and water like undercoating does. All natural and keeps the underside like new

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

From up north that's probably par for the course but it is worrisome if you're not used to seeing it. I'd be worried if the body had any rust though. I once had a new 2000 F150 whose door panels start rusting out in earnest after the first 15 months. Also, it had thousands of teensy brown rust spots on the hood and top of the cab in the same time frame. Easy to spot on a white truck. I ended up taking sandpaper to the rust under the doors and spraying with white Rust Oleum the day before I traded it off for a 2003 Ranger FX4 and it looked almost new again! Had the Ranger until last year and the body never rusted anywhere. But underneath was a rusty nasty mess. I blame most of that mess underneath on the road conditions at a steel mill where I work moreso than the salt on city streets and roads.

 

 

Not advanced yet. That's how a rust belt State vehicle will look if a wet/iced salted vehicle is parked in a heated garage instead of leaving it outside in the cold, or the salt residue is not flushed from the frame with water ASAP. The newer models have plastic coated brake lines which should hold off corrosion, but you have to make sure the salt is removed from the steel gas tank vent and supply lines which will rust badly.

 

Other than stripping the frame, best bet is to scrape and coat the areas with rust restorer compound, and undercoat.

 

OK, so the truck was returned. Loved it and loved the price (although I know why it was priced that low). Bunch of headaches in the past couple days.

Purchased at Autonation Chevy in Clw, FL. One of the most stressful car buying experiences I've had in a while. I wanted to talk to the sales manager to see what other options we had and he never showed. Some young sales kid came running out to me to give me the key and registration to my traded car just to push me out of the lot, I was about 1/4 mile from the building. took the car home furious. Went to a GMC dealer around the corner a couple days later and picked up a 2014 DC, LTZ 4x4 for a little more. Much happier now. No rust.

 

I should've looked all the way underneath, I know. It was a stupid mistake that luckily didn't have any harsh consequences. Being in FL i'm not used to rust like that unless it's been dunked in salt water. One good thing Autonation had was a "no questions asked return policy for 3 days". The thing that pissed me off more than anything is they claimed to have a 172 point inspection. When asked about the rust, they didn't have an answer. All is well now. thank you for all the help guys.

Posted

The 2014 trucks had some issues with the wax coating on the frame not being applied correctly, that truck looks like it was one of the affected trucks.

Posted

GM uses a piss poor wax coating on the underside of the trucks. Looks normal for something that has been driven in the snow and salt for 2 years.

Posted

Well it's not Toyota-magnitude yet. You have options to fix it. You could:

 

-Spray the rusty areas with oil/Fluid Film (don't forget inside of boxed frame

-Removed as much of the black wax as possible and apply either POR-15 or Chassis Saver to any rusty or exposed steel.

-Try to reapply the shifty GMwax to areas that flaked off.

 

I used the first option as of now.

 

Do not waste your time/money on the rubberized undercoating products.

Posted

Well it's not Toyota-magnitude yet. You have options to fix it. You could:

 

-Spray the rusty areas with oil/Fluid Film (don't forget inside of boxed frame

-Removed as much of the black wax as possible and apply either POR-15 or Chassis Saver to any rusty or exposed steel.

-Try to reapply the shifty GMwax to areas that flaked off.

 

I used the first option as of now.

 

Do not waste your time/money on the rubberized undercoating products

Traded it back and purchased something newer. I still live in FL near the water, so if anything like this happens to the new truck, I'll note this. Thanks for the info!

GM uses a piss poor wax coating on the underside of the trucks. Looks normal for something that has been driven in the snow and salt for 2 years.

Based on the Carfax, this was only in New York (Snow) for 1 year. Then it came down to FL. The fact that it did this in 1 year irks me. Previous driver must not have taken care of it. I swapped it for something newer/better anyways. Thanks for the info!

Posted

Traded it back and purchased something newer. I still live in FL near the water, so if anything like this happens to the new truck, I'll note this. Thanks for the info!

Based on the Carfax, this was only in New York (Snow) for 1 year. Then it came down to FL. The fact that it did this in 1 year irks me. Previous driver must not have taken care of it. I swapped it for something newer/better anyways. Thanks for the info!

Back in 2015, you could go to a Chevy lot and see brand new trucks with frame rust already. And not just one or two, multiple. It is not the previous owners fault this time. I know this from actually going adn looking at the lot after noticing it on my old 14 Silverado just a week after having it. I wasn't happy, hence why I now have a 2015 Sierra.

Posted

Yes, my 2014 has rust too. GM does have a TSB out on this, which they refer to as "cosmetic" issues. I took mine in for that and they did a hack job on it, just touching up the rust, which has since returned.

 

GM quality is truly terrible.

Posted

Here's my old 2010 after 3 years, 40k miles, also from NY. Seems hit or miss. I had the rocker panels done at 65k and by 75k my rear wheel wells were rusting through. Truck seemed doomed from day 1. My frame was redone by the dealership at 40k, but only lasted a year. (And they did an awful job)

 

Hopefully my '15 fares better.

 

photo2_zps7c82f858.jpg

 

photo2_zps9a0550ed.jpg

Posted

It may look ugly, but in reality thats just steel reacting to the conditions, The layer of rust is an oxide & won't deepen immediately it takes ALOT of abuse over longer time to get through something the gauge of frame steel. If you were to blast that steel, hit it w/ a wire brush rotary, brillo, etc. & some oxiclean then hit it w/ a mist of oil followed by spray can clear coat it'd be mint for a long time.

 

Posted

Mine is on the verge of turning 3 and 97% of factory wax is still in place. The only place where wax is missing is at the underside of the frame where a lift contacted the frame for a dealer service visit last month. Sprayed/brushed with fluid film twice each year, lightly rinsed a couple times every winter.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...