Jump to content

Grade Braking

rangerhgm

Recommended Posts

rangerhgm Enthusiast

rangerhgm

Posted
Posted

I had my truck on an extended trip this past week and I noticed a "Grade Braking" message on my DIC. I have no idea why it came on and only saw it once.

 

How does this work?

 

I didn't see anything in my manual about it.

Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted

I had my truck on an extended trip this past week and I noticed a "Grade Braking" message on my DIC. I have no idea why it came on and only saw it once.

 

How does this work?

 

I didn't see anything in my manual about it.

If your holding the brake for an extended period of time down a long grade, it will kick in to use engine braking. If in tow haul mode, the duration and grade requirements are reduced and it will come on much sooner.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted

Yeah i think it actually says "Grade Braking Active" but I have never snapped a pic of it.

rangerhgm Enthusiast

rangerhgm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.....and yes it did say "Grade Braking Active".....kind of caught me off guard since I never saw anything in the manual about it.

Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted

You can disable it by holding the tow haul button for 5-10 seconds. The off notification won't appear until you let go of the button

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Krusty Enthusiast

Krusty

Posted
Posted

I liked to use tow haul and cruise down a gradual grade with my 2007.5 Duramax - it would then hold the speed and not run away. Down a steep grade I would use manual mode and down shift as needed. I imagine the 1500 that is coming soon will work similar........

 

:driving:

Knightfall Enthusiast

Knightfall

Posted
Posted

Grade braking came in handy going down some pretty gnarly backroads in the middle of nowhere in western VA. Helped out alot.

SilveradoSaver Senior Enthusiast

SilveradoSaver

Posted
Posted

So what exactly does "grade braking" do? How does it work? I realize it slows you down going down a steep grade but what's different versus holding the brakes? Just curious :)

AllTerrainX Enthusiast

AllTerrainX

Posted
Posted

So what exactly does "grade braking" do? How does it work? I realize it slows you down going down a steep grade but what's different versus holding the brakes? Just curious :)

I would imagine it uses your engine/tranny to slow/steady you in a lower gear, down a steep grade. If you are on your brakes for a long time, you can heat them up and glaze the pads and rotors and potentially warp them. You should never be on your brakes for long periods of time, especially with a load.

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

What is an appropriate RPM for manually "Grade Braking" down a hill?

 

I drove out west last summer into the Rockies and went thru some pretty steep grades. I was manually downshifting and sometimes had RPMs 3500 to 4000 to maintain speed downhill.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

What is an appropriate RPM for manually "Grade Braking" down a hill?

 

I drove out west last summer into the Rockies and went thru some pretty steep grades. I was manually downshifting and sometimes had RPMs 3500 to 4000 to maintain speed downhill.

I've had mine go to near redline on a loaded hard stop...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

DiverRick Enthusiast

DiverRick

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys.....and yes it did say "Grade Braking Active".....kind of caught me off guard since I never saw anything in the manual about it.

Page 159 of the manual for my 2016 Sierra....

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

What is an appropriate RPM for manually "Grade Braking" down a hill?

 

I drove out west last summer into the Rockies and went thru some pretty steep grades. I was manually downshifting and sometimes had RPMs 3500 to 4000 to maintain speed downhill.

Grade braking is an automatic function.

 

Manual downshifting turns off the grade braking programming.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

This thread got my curiosity up so I went to the manual:

 

Normal Mode Grade Braking
If equipped with a gasoline engine and an automatic transmission, Normal Mode Grade Braking is enabled when the vehicle is started, but is not enabled in Range
Selection Mode.
It assists in maintaining desired vehicle speeds when driving on downhill grades by using the engine and transmission to slow the vehicle.
The first time the system engages for each ignition key cycle, a DIC message will be displayed. See Transmission Messages pg 159.
To disable or enable Normal Mode Grade Braking within the current ignition key cycle, press and hold the Tow/Haul button for five seconds. When the button is released, the requested mode change is made. A DIC message displays. See Transmission Messages
Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking
Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking is only enabled while the Tow/Haul Mode is selected and the vehicle is not in the Range Selection Mode.
See “Tow/Haul Mode” listed previously and Manual Mode pg 288.
Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking assists in maintaining desired vehicle speeds when driving on downhill grades by using the engine and transmission to slow the vehicle.
On vehicles with a gasoline engine, to disable or enable Tow/Haul Grade Braking within the current ignition key cycle, press and hold the Tow/Haul button for five seconds. When the button is released, the requested mode change is made. A DIC message is displayed. See Transmission Messages pg 159.
On vehicles with a diesel engine, Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking can be enabled or disabled by pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button.
Use the exhaust brake and Tow/Haul Mode for maximum grade braking.
See Towing Equipment pg 338. For other forms of grade braking, see Automatic Transmission pg 284 and Cruise Control pg 304
While going downhill:
. Vehicles with a 6-speed automatic transmission and a gasoline engine have Cruise Grade Braking to help maintain driver selected speed.
Cruise Grade Braking is enabled when the vehicle is started and cruise control is active. It is not enabled in Range Selection Mode. It assists in maintaining driver selected speed when driving on downhill grades by using the engine and transmission to slow the vehicle.
To disable and enable Cruise Grade Braking for the current ignition key cycle, press and hold the Tow/Haul button for five seconds. A DIC message displays. See Transmission Messages pg 159
and from page 159:
GRADE BRAKING ACTIVE
This message displays when grade braking has been activated while driving on downhill grades.
This message will only appear the first time the feature is activated in an ignition cycle. See Tow/Haul Mode pg 290, Automatic Transmission pg 284, and Cruise Control pg 304.
GRADE BRAKING OFF
This message displays when grade braking has been disabled with the Tow/Haul Mode button on the end of the shift lever. See Tow/Haul Mode pg 290, Automatic Transmission pg 284, and Cruise Control pg 304.
GRADE BRAKING ON
This message displays when grade braking has been enabled with the Tow/Haul Mode button on the end of the shift lever. See Tow/Haul Mode pg 290, Automatic Transmission pg 284, and Cruise Control pg 304.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • C. Hart
      Exhaust Question

      By C. Hart · Posted

      I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • newdude
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By newdude · Posted

      Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"
    • asilverblazer
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Good information!  I didn't know about the dementia aspect and asked for a general for my second knee. I'd heard that recovery room time is usually shorter with a general.   The anesthesiologist talked me out of it and I had the spinal.  Inconvenience and/or discomfort is a small price to pay for reduced risk!
    • garagerog
      Navigating senior years.

      By garagerog · Posted

      This is for those over 70 years of age contemplating joint replacement surgery involving general anesthesia. Even some 55 yrs. ago when I took my pharmacology class the dangers of developing dementia in the elderly that had general anesthesia were beginning to be recognized. Over the years there has been some refinement in the cautionary warnings, avoid general anesthesia if possible if you've had close to 10 priors, especially over the age of 70 and/or a family history of dementia. I'm not including the twilight anesthesia induced by propofol often used in cytoscopies or colonscopies. Seriously think about seeing a neurologist and undergo cognitive testing before proceeding if any of those criteria apply to you. Spinal anesthesia may be an option in some cases. I'm in the above camp and although I could use a new right knee, I get fidgety according to a prior orthopedic surgeon when the bone saw spools up or maybe it was the smell of saw blade meeting bone, anyhow I may have one general anesthesia left in me which I will pocket for now and I'm choosing mind over mobility, anyway where did I leave my damn cane!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...