Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 and retrofitted a usb charging coil which I ran to the usb connection in my console.  It charges my Galaxy S8 fine but once you use it for Pandora or Waze, the phone gets an error message for slow charge.  I wanted to try using a Samsung Fast Charge coil setup but was wondering if it would actually fast charge.  I think I may need to hardwire it using a fast charge usb port.  Has anyone tried this?

Posted
On 1/24/2018 at 9:56 PM, Cliff14Denali said:

I have a 2014 and retrofitted a usb charging coil which I ran to the usb connection in my console.  It charges my Galaxy S8 fine but once you use it for Pandora or Waze, the phone gets an error message for slow charge.  I wanted to try using a Samsung Fast Charge coil setup but was wondering if it would actually fast charge.  I think I may need to hardwire it using a fast charge usb port.  Has anyone tried this?

I haven't, however, I've read that you can't have a fast charging setup with 3 coils.  The original GM version of the charger was a single coil, whereas the 2018 version is a 3 coil version, which can provide a good interface for the coils and be more lenient on having a good position to deliver the maximum charge possible.  Perhaps they did this to address all the complaints from the single coil version about people not being able to find the "sweet spot" on the charging pad for the phone to stay charging?  

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is that even if you have a fast charging custom setup with the proper power hookup, if the phone isn't exactly aligned for that single coil, you might not see full advantage of the faster charging?  I might be wrong about fast chargers only being single coil, but I don't think I've seen a fast charger yet that is 3 coil?  

 

On my other wireless chargers I've used at home, I've found that if you don't have a high enough powered USB power supply, the pad can act finicky.  Even if your car adapter says 2.1A, a lot of them aren't right and don't truly put out that power.  You might want to test your current with a amperage tester or perhaps try another power source, which could help you with the slow charge issue?

  • Thanks 1
Posted

For the guys that went the oem route, I have a 2015 Sierra slt and doing the oem wireless charging route. So now I’m trying to figure where does the connector coming from the lid plug into in the center console? I’ve looked at both a 15 and 17 and both have the same harness pn:23211330. 

  • Like 1
Posted
For the guys that went the oem route, I have a 2015 Sierra slt and doing the oem wireless charging route. So now I’m trying to figure where does the connector coming from the lid plug into in the center console? I’ve looked at both a 15 and 17 and both have the same harness pn:23211330. 

There is a disconnect on the rear panel of the console. So the main harness will have a branch out at the rear where the new lid will plug into.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 1/24/2018 at 6:56 PM, Cliff14Denali said:

I have a 2014 and retrofitted a usb charging coil which I ran to the usb connection in my console.  It charges my Galaxy S8 fine but once you use it for Pandora or Waze, the phone gets an error message for slow charge.  I wanted to try using a Samsung Fast Charge coil setup but was wondering if it would actually fast charge.  I think I may need to hardwire it using a fast charge usb port.  Has anyone tried this?

I did the same thing. Took apart a cheap wireless fast charger I bought for $13 on amazon. Put it in my center console between two pieces of plastic so when my phone is in the little tray, it charges. I have no issues with running apps and power loss. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Going into the dealership today for them to examine wireless charger not functioning.
Hopefully they will replace with 2018 unit under warranty as it has never worked for me.

Posted

Big shoot out to pgamboa and his video.  I was going crazy as to why my iPhone X would not charge in my 2016. I just got my 2018 module and ordered the new conncector.  Took about 15 minutes to put everything together and pin the new connector, now everything works like a charm.  I did not rotate my mat, and i can charge as long as the phone is touching the back stop.

 

I do have a 2016 module for sale...if anyone wants a nice paperweight. LOL

  • Like 2
Posted
Big shoot out to pgamboa and his video.  I was going crazy as to why my iPhone X would not charge in my 2016. I just got my 2018 module and ordered the new conncector.  Took about 15 minutes to put everything together and pin the new connector, now everything works like a charm.  I did not rotate my mat, and i can charge as long as the phone is touching the back stop.
 
I do have a 2016 module for sale...if anyone wants a nice paperweight. LOL

Thanks! I’ve got 2 modules doing a fine job holding some papers down on my desk. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
13 hours ago, ThunderBunny01 said:

Big shoot out to pgamboa and his video.  I was going crazy as to why my iPhone X would not charge in my 2016. I just got my 2018 module and ordered the new conncector.  Took about 15 minutes to put everything together and pin the new connector, now everything works like a charm.  I did not rotate my mat, and i can charge as long as the phone is touching the back stop.

 

I do have a 2016 module for sale...if anyone wants a nice paperweight. LOL

Where did you order your 2018 module from?

Posted
25 minutes ago, jogutier said:

Where did you order your 2018 module from?

I got my online from GM PARTS XPERTS, ordered and received within 1 week

Posted
37 minutes ago, ThunderBunny01 said:

I got my online from GM PARTS XPERTS, ordered and received within 1 week

Man, thanks for the info. Just ordered mine. I've called other online retailers and none had them in stock. I just called these guys and they had 10 in stock. SOLD!!!! lol

 

Now i can put Mr. Gamboa's harness to use. 

 

Thanks again brotha,

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

im having such a hard time with this one.  I don't feel like i shouldnt have to spend $100 for the new part when gm made a crap part the first time.  But i also like the idea of OEM fit and function.  im so torn!!! 

Edited by 14tungstenLT
  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, 14tungstenLT said:

im having such a hard time with this one.  I don't feel like i should have to spend $100 for the new part when gm made a crap part the first time.  But i also like the idea of OEM fit and function.  im so torn!!! 

I know what you mean. I'm just hoping to recoup some of that $100 from ebay with my old charging module. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,569 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...