Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I towed my trailer this morning to a jobsite. I unhooked for a bit had some running around to do. Came back and hooked up. I have no output on trailer brakes. the gauge pops up on dash but no matter what I do I get no level indication. Checked fuses they seem ok. test for voltage i rear at plug with brakes on and no voltage. What am I missing. Trailer brake fuses under hood.///???

 

Posted

So I towed my trailer this morning to a jobsite. I unhooked for a bit had some running around to do. Came back and hooked up. I have no output on trailer brakes. the gauge pops up on dash but no matter what I do I get no level indication. Checked fuses they seem ok. test for voltage i rear at plug with brakes on and no voltage. What am I missing. Trailer brake fuses under hood.///???

 

Unless the truck senses a trailer is actually hooked up, you will not get any brake voltage at the plug. I have had some issue's and usually cleaning the plug has fixed it. Or in a rush, plugging/unplugging several times works.

 

 

Mark

Posted

Yes I have lights. I took it apart and cleaned it. Seems to be fine now . Out put is back. Wow it is a sensitive system. I understand what you are saying Mark. Thanks for the help guys.

Posted

This happened to me on my 1500... Usually just making sure the plug is all the way then you need to shut the truck down and restart. This should rest the system so the truck detects the trailer fully. You can get light and no brakes.

Posted

Dielectric grease. Jam the pins with it. Pack the flat 4 too, in MI with salt it will turn into green dust if you don't.

Posted

GM female plugs are known to have loose connections from time to time. On your trailer plug, pinch the trailer brake plugs closer together using a small pliers and you should be all set.

Posted

The plugs on the newer trucks seem to be a weak point. Clean and pack with the dielectric grease is a good suggestion no matter where you are located.

 

And wholly crap, do not pull the trailer emergency brake to test it when you are hooked up to the truck. Want to talk about sending the truck into an electrical tissy......

 

 

Mark

Posted

Dielectric grease. Jam the pins with it. Pack the flat 4 too, in MI with salt it will turn into green dust if you don't.

 

 

The plugs on the newer trucks seem to be a weak point. Clean and pack with the dielectric grease is a good suggestion no matter where you are located.

 

And wholly crap, do not pull the trailer emergency brake to test it when you are hooked up to the truck. Want to talk about sending the truck into an electrical tissy......

 

 

Mark

 

 

 

You guys do realize that dielectric grease is non-conducting?

Posted (edited)

 

 

 

 

 

You guys do realize that dielectric grease is non-conducting?

I could be wrong, but I'm thinking they are meaning it for more of a protection of the contacts...

 

Or were you referring to the electrical tissy he talked about? I think that was just in reference to what he did to check the brakes.

 

"pull the trailer emergency brake to test it"

 

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

Edited by jpinoy
Posted

The whole purpose of using dielectric grease is that it is non conductive. This is a simple way of protecting contacts from shorting out due to moisture in an enclosed environment. If the trailer plug on the truck didn't leak, one wouldn't have to do it.

 

The brake test was something completely different.

 

Mark

 

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Dielectric grease has long been used for bulb connections even from the factory. Putting some dielectric grease on the trailer or any connection works to prevent corrosion but can get pretty messy. It works on any connection like battery cables too. It doesn't prevent conductivity of the connection (metal to metal) but prevents conductivity between different terminals and also keeps the air away which definitely helps with corrosion. Some greases can conduct electricity and cause a potential short circuit between terminals (like power and ground) without actual metal contact present.

Edited by 4x4Pete
  • Like 1
Posted

If you use regular grease you run the risk of shorting out everything. Has to be Dielectric.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You guys do realize that dielectric grease is non-conducting?

You ave to use dielectric grease or you will short everything out....As stated keeps moisture out and contacts clean.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yup, you can spread the grease around and not worry about arcing across terminals. It can get messy but if you don't go overboard you will be OK. It's helps the plug slide easier too so it does not pull the plug out of the bumper....which by the way is a poor design, you have to hold the male end so the female end does not rip it right out of the bumper plastic trim. But it is better than Ford where it is sideways and very close to the receiver pin.

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 4/30/2017 at 10:42 AM, HeliMark said:

The plugs on the newer trucks seem to be a weak point. Clean and pack with the dielectric grease is a good suggestion no matter where you are located.

 

And wholly crap, do not pull the trailer emergency brake to test it when you are hooked up to the truck. Want to talk about sending the truck into an electrical tissy......

 

 

Mark

Any chance you can elaborate on that electrical tissy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Whoever greenlighted the work truck matte black front bumpers on every trim but the AT4X should be fired!  I was hoping that was an AI mistake, but just realized they were on every model of the 2027 Silverado too.     Some parts of the interior do look premium, but the Denali Ultimate dashboard looks like an afterthought.  At least they appear to have lost the microfiber the high end Silverado models showed, but the '27 High Country dash looks better than the Denali.  
    • New member here. I am researching a read-first event-recorder concept for late-model GM V8 trucks. This is not a sales post. There is no product link, price, preorder, or mailing list. I am trying to determine whether the underlying problem is real before building anything.   Has your truck ever had a brief problem such as: - rough running or a momentary misfire - an oil-pressure warning or unusual pressure event - reduced power or a brief stall - a U-code or lost-communication problem - a symptom that disappeared before the dealer or independent shop could reproduce it   If so, I would appreciate the following details: - year, model, engine, and mileage - what happened and under what conditions - whether a DTC and useful freeze-frame data were stored - whether the shop was able to reproduce it - what the eventual confirmed repair was, if known - what additional information would have helped the diagnosis   The concept being evaluated is a removable leave-in recorder that continuously retains a rolling window from before and after an event. It would not tune, reflash, clear codes, or change the vehicle calibration.   I am also not claiming that it could predict lifter failure or see every internal ECM variable.   The real question is whether continuous event history would add enough useful evidence beyond freeze frame, GDS2, and existing scan tools — or whether it would simply be another unnecessary gadget.   For owners and technicians, which problem would make something like this genuinely useful: 1. intermittent misfire or AFM/DFM-related behavior 2. oil-pressure events 3. lost communication or electrical faults 4. none of the above Please be blunt. Negative feedback is just as useful as positive feedback.
    • No tears over the SLE and SLT trim levels disappearing but I kind of loathe the "Elevation" name. It's a truck--skip the elegance.   The slab-dashboard design is decidedly different. Almost has a Hummer flavor to it. "Professional Grade" seems to be leaning very white-collar, tech-driven these days moreso than blue-collar, functional design.   The Silverado would be my choice between the two new trucks. Pleased with the engine lineup in both. The GMC is a little "too much" for a truck, IMO, and the Denali borders on ridiculous - but I do know there are buyers for luxury trucks out there. It's just not my speed.
    • Your safety is of utmost importance, @joshua1221, and we understand the importance of having all your lights working in your truck. If you have not already, we highly encourage you to bring your concerns to the attention of your local GM dealer. They are in the best position to diagnose your concerns as well as confirm the compatibility of the mirrors with your truck. Additionally, we would like the opportunity to explore any way we may be of assistance. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.gm.com/support-request and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately.
    • - I like the outside but not as much as the Chevrolet.  They ICE'd the EV styling and it works, but I think exterior goes to Chevy on this one.     - SLE and SLT dead = Not.  Surprising.  Fits into the rest of the GMC lineup like this which (aside from Pro) matches the rest of the family.  Elevation, AT4, Denali.     - Interior.  Sophisticated Malaise era.  Why do I say Malaise?  Drawn with a ruler.  Rectangles everywhere.  Looks very premium though.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...