2016 8" Screen, no amps - Adding 5 channel Amp, and Audio Converte

ZPP · May 19, 2017

I have a 2016 Silverado with and 8" screen and standard system (no amps). I am getting ready to add a 5 channel amp along with new door speakers all the way around and a sub in the back. To do this I'm going to use the LC7 audio converter but wanted to see if anyone had some tips on where to tap into the current speaker wire lines. If anyone has the location of the speaker wire harness and the breakdown of each color wire that would help me out a lot! Any tips you have are greatly appreciated Thanks in advance!

GRN69CHV · May 19, 2017

Many threads on this site regarding aftermarket amp/speaker installs. But I will save you the aggravation that we have all went through. #1, leave the dash speakers alone running direct off the factory head unit. Bluetooth and door chimes come out of driver side dash and front door. Even on the lowest setting when amplified, it gets very loud, very fast. For the doors, tap into the rear door speaker wire leads for your signal, then split it to feed both the front and rear doors and the sub feed. Right now I have an Alpine 45x4 compact amp driving my doors and dash with a separate powered sub. Have a LC2i here which in my opinion makes for an easier install in these trucks. LC2i splits the signal for full range and sub feed so you only need one set of leads. Just need to get some free time, but what I am going to do is remove the compact amp, drive the dash and rear doors off the head unit, tap into the rear door speaker leads to feed the LC2i into a 3 channel setup feeding front doors and sub. I am also considering switching the front and rear door leads so I can still have Bluetooth and chime at the door. I just know, the last thing you will want to deal with is that amplified chime, there's just no way around it with the factory setup if adding a decent amp. It's like having a home doorbell in your truck when amplified.

jpinoy · May 19, 2017

Depending on your RPO code for your audio, here are some schematics for the wires:

UQ3/UQ5, probably what you have

UQG

UQA is for BOSE system.

ZPP · May 19, 2017

Thanks for the great information guys, that's exactly what I needed! Going to dive into tomorrow.

GRN69CHV · May 20, 2017

Here's response from Oct on same topic. This is how I did mine with the compact Alpine 445U amp, tucked behind the glove box. Only thing is with running a large 5 channel amp it will mean running speaker leads both back to the line converter and then back to the speakers, at which point it's just easier to tap the leads at the kick panels.

Just use line converter (unless the amp has speaker level inputs). Easiest way to integrate is via factory wiring. Use Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Harness on amp output side, Use Metra 71-2107 on amp input side. You only need the green plug/harness.

http://www.metraonli...om/part/70-2057

http://www.metraonli...om/part/71-2107

Maxsuperdog · May 20, 2017

If you're putting the amp in the back of the truck you can tap the rear speakers in the "B" pillar. They're fairly easy to get to. I'm in the process of doing my stereo. Amps are mounted but I haven't been off of the road long enough to install my door speakers and tweets in the dash. Nor have i figured out how to run new speaker wire into the doors.

GRN69CHV · May 20, 2017

If you're putting the amp in the back of the truck you can tap the rear speakers in the "B" pillar. They're fairly easy to get to. I'm in the process of doing my stereo. Amps are mounted but I haven't been off of the road long enough to install my door speakers and tweets in the dash. Nor have i figured out how to run new speaker wire into the doors.

I know guys like to run heavy gauge wire from the amp right to the speaker, I prefer to just run the wire to the kick panel (or B-pillar for the rear) and splice it into the existing wire for the short run through the door to the speaker.

Maxsuperdog · May 20, 2017

I know guys like to run heavy gauge wire from the amp right to the speaker, I prefer to just run the wire to the kick panel (or B-pillar for the rear) and splice it into the existing wire for the short run through the door to the speaker.

I'm one of those guys but from the looks of the door molex I may have to do the same thing.

ZPP · May 24, 2017

I know there are lots of write up on this topic so I really appricate the help as I wasn't able to find exactly what I needed originally but the replies have definitely helped. I also found a post from last year that had a lot of the original info I was looking for. Here a link to that: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/178355-hozers-2014-sierra-audio-upgrades/page-1

I had everything pulled apart and determined I didn't want to cut into the factory harness so I ordered both the Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Harness and the Metra 71-2107 for the amp input side as suggested. While everything was apart I was able to get the amp mounted and power wire ran. I also installed sound deadening material around all 4 doors (

Noico 80 mil). I installed the Kicker 40CS674 6-3/4" CS-Series Coaxial Speakers in the rear but when I went to install the 6-3/4" Component Speaker up front I found out 6x9" come from the factory. I went ahead and put everything back together until I can get the following worked out which I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction.

1) For the front door speakers do I install 6X9" or get some type of an adapter to make the 6-3/4" component speakers work? If I stick with the component speakers where is the best place to mount the tweeters and crossovers?

2) I haven't been able to find a good 10" sub box for the back for the 2016 double cab. I want 10's for sure I just don't know if my amp will work better with 1 or 2. It looks like it needs to be at 2 ohms so I am thinking just one. Here is the info on the amp if you have any suggestions - Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier - Amplifier Output Details: 40 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.1% - 14.4V DC - 4 channel(s) ¦ 300 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s) ¦ 50 Watt - 2 Ohm - at 1 kHz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 4 channel(s) ¦ 500 Watt - 2 Ohm - at 100 Hz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s)

3) Is there a work around when amplifying all four door speakers that I can bypass the door chimes etc. from being amplified?

4)Best place to mount the LC7

5) Best connectors for 4awg wire to the amp for power and grounds.

I didn't get very many pics but here is are a few from the back doors. .

ZPP · May 24, 2017

pics of the back door

GRN69CHV · May 25, 2017

Many of the 6.75" come with a 6x9 adapter bracket. Schoshe (??), Metra make the GM mounts for 6x9 or conversion to 6.75.

Maxsuperdog · May 26, 2017

I know there are lots of write up on this topic so I really appricate the help as I wasn't able to find exactly what I needed originally but the replies have definitely helped. I also found a post from last year that had a lot of the original info I was looking for. Here a link to that: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/178355-hozers-2014-sierra-audio-upgrades/page-1

I had everything pulled apart and determined I didn't want to cut into the factory harness so I ordered both the Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Harness and the Metra 71-2107 for the amp input side as suggested. While everything was apart I was able to get the amp mounted and power wire ran. I also installed sound deadening material around all 4 doors (

Noico 80 mil). I installed the Kicker 40CS674 6-3/4" CS-Series Coaxial Speakers in the rear but when I went to install the 6-3/4" Component Speaker up front I found out 6x9" come from the factory. I went ahead and put everything back together until I can get the following worked out which I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction.

1) For the front door speakers do I install 6X9" or get some type of an adapter to make the 6-3/4" component speakers work? If I stick with the component speakers where is the best place to mount the tweeters and crossovers?

2) I haven't been able to find a good 10" sub box for the back for the 2016 double cab. I want 10's for sure I just don't know if my amp will work better with 1 or 2. It looks like it needs to be at 2 ohms so I am thinking just one. Here is the info on the amp if you have any suggestions - Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier - Amplifier Output Details: 40 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.1% - 14.4V DC - 4 channel(s) ¦ 300 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s) ¦ 50 Watt - 2 Ohm - at 1 kHz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 4 channel(s) ¦ 500 Watt - 2 Ohm - at 100 Hz - THD 0.5% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s)

3) Is there a work around when amplifying all four door speakers that I can bypass the door chimes etc. from being amplified?

4)Best place to mount the LC7

5) Best connectors for 4awg wire to the amp for power and grounds.

I didn't get very many pics but here is are a few from the back doors. .

You can attach to the back wall. Rear seats are pretty easy to take out for this project

ZPP · June 2, 2017

Here are a few more pics of what I have so far. Does anyone have suggestions on how to amp all the speakers and not get the amplified chime? I'm using the LC7 and a 5 channel amp so I can power all the doors and a sub but I don't want to get the amplified chimes. I am worried if I just grab signal off the the rear speakers in the B pillar I wont get full range on my door speakers. Thanks in advance for any help on this!