Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
19 minutes ago, Sloverado said:

Bringing up old thread. I am looking to do this upgrade and I’m also have another question maybe someone can answer. I have a 170 amp alt and was wondering if the 84143539 220 amp would be a replacement for it? I have a 17 with the 6.2. My dealer ship wasn’t much help when asking

Id grab a real HO alt myself. Stock alts or meh.  Dc power or US alternators.   Our stock 170 atls probably only put out 100-120 amps hot.  

Posted
Bringing up old thread. I am looking to do this upgrade and I’m also have another question maybe someone can answer. I have a 170 amp alt and was wondering if the 84143539 220 amp would be a replacement for it? I have a 17 with the 6.2. My dealer ship wasn’t much help when asking
If you just want the higher amp alternator for the dual setup I can attest you don't need it. The stock will maintain them both no problem. If you need it for another purpose please report your findings. I've had a dealer tell me changing the alternator required programming. I don't know that I believe them but with these trucks it wouldn't surprise me. On a side note I can also attest that when you accidentally run your primary battery too low to crank your truck the secondary will definitely do the job. Linked mine via the push button on my ACR and she cranked right up!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

Posted (edited)

Is this the correct tray to add a second battery then? it doesn’t look to be but the the part number for my 17 doesn’t match what was on here

6C17237E-BA8F-469D-BA9F-04E9C4DD87B4.jpeg

Edited by Sloverado
Posted

I believe you would need part number 22989633 for the correct battery tray and the tie-down

 

 

130221TK02-208.JPG

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/23/2018 at 3:57 PM, csoldfield said:

I can confirm 22989633 - here's it mounted in my 2017 Silverado
 

IMG_20180302_075006.jpg

IMG_20180318_153602.jpg

IMG_20180318_153611.jpg

Super Clean Install!  Love it!

Posted

does anyone who did this have a part number listing for the dual battery cables?  Id like to do this on my 14 Denali.   

Posted (edited)

If you wanna go completely factory for the second battery, it's alot of work. When i did mine, i made my own cables. The routing is totally different. I just went from + batt1 to + batt2. I also did + from alt to + batt2.  - from batt2 to engine and chassis. All of my aftermarket stereo power gets power from batt2.

20180523_192637.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
Posted (edited)

This just shows the breakers from batt1 to batt2.20180519_170215.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
Add content
Posted
This just shows the breakers from batt1 to batt2.20180519_170215.thumb.jpg.58dc03ed80ef652a0f5ce6984ce2f6e5.jpg
That means you just have a bigger single battery system. Also the charge system doesn't know the difference and also you can hurt both batteries. Been there done that.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
I believe you would need part number 22989633 for the correct battery tray and the tie-down
 
 
130221TK02-208.thumb.JPG.4d05fa25dddb6d90de4ddca59c1d3f6a.JPG
Battery tray isn't needed the factory tray works with some batteries and with Optima batteries as they come with the adapter. All you need is the hold down $7 part. I did this on my truck and posted pics.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 hours ago, RACERX7775 said:

If you wanna go completely factory for the second battery, it's alot of work. When i did mine, i made my own cables. The routing is totally different. I just went from + batt1 to + batt2. I also did + from alt to + batt2.  - from batt2 to engine and chassis. All of my aftermarket stereo power gets power from batt2.

20180523_192637.jpg

Are both grounds going through the battery current sensor? If not youll run into high charge issues

Posted
If you just want the higher amp alternator for the dual setup I can attest you don't need it. The stock will maintain them both no problem. If you need it for another purpose please report your findings. I've had a dealer tell me changing the alternator required programming. I don't know that I believe them but with these trucks it wouldn't surprise me. On a side note I can also attest that when you accidentally run your primary battery too low to crank your truck the secondary will definitely do the job. Linked mine via the push button on my ACR and she cranked right up!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

Without a isolator then when the truck dies both batteries are dead. It will not start. Also one battery goes weak and the other will suffer. Charge system will have a hell of a time.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I wasnt looking to isolate either of them.  It was more of a way to keep voltage spikes at a min from the stereo system. This isnt my first time doing this thing.  If done right, you wont hurt anything. I had these in the back of my excursion with 2 more up front.

20140507_093122.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 523 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...