Jump to content

Adding a Dual Battery

bsprtsgrp
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...
  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

tenscourts
tenscourts

I've gone through this entire process. See my build thread and pm me if you need additional info. BTW the OE battery size will not fit the second tray. Again, read my thread. I have part #s, pictures,

Vuk
Vuk

This is the battery tray, secondary auxiliary relay, and the optional 3 fuse box and cover for older model years if you want to replace the single fuse box on the aux battery harness:

Vuk
Vuk

My setup is complete now with nice factory-looking points to hook up an inverter. Should I ever need to jump start the primary battery, I can always run jump cables from aux battery to the primary.

Posted Images

jpinoy Enthusiast

jpinoy

Posted
Posted

So, as the parts came in, they sat around for a while(ok, a good while) finally got around to installing my dual setup. 

I picked up the Keyline Isolator 300amp(for future, friends trying to talk me into Overlanding.. haha) and AGM H6(Costco). The design for the battery terminal on the back of the isolator could use some redesign, or make it like their 140amp isolators.  If you buy their kit, you get the right terminals to fit from the looks of it. I bought some copper tubing and made my own lugs to fit correctly on the back terminals.. 😮‍💨

I used some red wire-loom for positive cables, but, I might switch it out with black. I picked up MTA 0300839 fuse block to use on it. I did pick up a 4 Relay/12 Fuse holder, just need to figure where to mount it, most likely in the corner next to the aux battery on that corner bracket. I'm going to re-wire it using the more flexible silicon wires. 

I did go the sensor route with the negative cable(used 2AWG). My old man gave me 1AWG red/black welding cable, so used the 1AWG for the positive. I connected some leads to the aux battery so I'm able to plug it into a maintainer, comes out by the bottom front grill. 

I left some of slack on the main cables if I need to move/route them. I used 2 fuse, between the isolator and main/aux battery. I ordered some wire loom mounting clips to clean up that side wiring/cabling. Most likely move the fuse onto the firewall for a cleaner look. 

427023302_1321708041837625_3864677358337896336_n.thumb.jpg.baabe8cac3e05913787e32e3703a660b.jpg

 

423944215_1508198366578786_3371667829314448957_n.thumb.jpg.4c876175fef3380f41fe0c2414d872c6.jpg

 

Don't mind that cable hanging down, it's going to get re-routed, it's for the LED strips.

423944205_737158188389924_1076121781060706663_n.thumb.jpg.cec127cc745a4ab5a627906c28998a4f.jpg

 

426829811_2636499233182697_3516004806779067301_n.thumb.jpg.30f159e2fca424ba9e2462ec708556ff.jpg

 

423944256_766047961697091_5723348345559009497_n.thumb.jpg.5c9b4fdab2011139c768ad3c76bbbc7a.jpg

 

426978189_1026673018437028_5882219932594468394_n.thumb.jpg.344af01aae936d63ca3db6e098895236.jpg

 

426828269_780489623968849_208218750770543542_n.thumb.jpg.1ea33ba3e6fc1ded6ae1f0139c2ac9d3.jpg

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
eurobound Enthusiast

eurobound

Posted
Posted

Some pics from factory 2nd battery installation. Works fine so far other than first 125 amp fuse provided was actually blown. Replaced it and it's worked solid for over a year now.

 

Buying the factory stuff was quite nice as it was totally plug and play with not much fuss. Wires fit perfectly and connectors to hold wires just snapped into place. Highly recommend going this route.

 

I also replaced both batteries at that time with AGM and so far no issues. 

20240225_162229.jpg

20240225_162232.jpg

20240225_162238.jpg

20240225_162244.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 7 months later...
BackRoadZ1 Enthusiast

BackRoadZ1

Posted
Posted
On 3/17/2024 at 11:13 AM, eurobound said:

Some pics from factory 2nd battery installation. Works fine so far other than first 125 amp fuse provided was actually blown. Replaced it and it's worked solid for over a year now.

 

Buying the factory stuff was quite nice as it was totally plug and play with not much fuss. Wires fit perfectly and connectors to hold wires just snapped into place. Highly recommend going this route.

 

I also replaced both batteries at that time with AGM and so far no issues. 

20240225_162229.jpg

20240225_162232.jpg

20240225_162238.jpg

20240225_162244.jpg

Do you have a parts list with part numbers for your kit?

  • 1 year later...
GraphiteSilveradoZ71 New Member

GraphiteSilveradoZ71

Posted
Posted
On 3/17/2024 at 11:13 AM, eurobound said:

Some pics from factory 2nd battery installation. Works fine so far other than first 125 amp fuse provided was actually blown. Replaced it and it's worked solid for over a year now.

 

Buying the factory stuff was quite nice as it was totally plug and play with not much fuss. Wires fit perfectly and connectors to hold wires just snapped into place. Highly recommend going this route.

 

I also replaced both batteries at that time with AGM and so far no issues. 

20240225_162229.jpg

20240225_162232.jpg

20240225_162238.jpg

20240225_162244.jpg

I came across this feed and something similar in another group. I’m looking to do the same if not similar on my 5.3L 1500.

Is this on a 5.3L/6.2L 1500 truck or 6.0L 2500/3500?

the black connector coming off of the grey relay, what does that connector go to? I’ve tried looking up the wiring diagram and have had no luck.

eurobound Enthusiast

eurobound

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 12/24/2025 at 6:05 PM, GraphiteSilveradoZ71 said:

I came across this feed and something similar in another group. I’m looking to do the same if not similar on my 5.3L 1500.

Is this on a 5.3L/6.2L 1500 truck or 6.0L 2500/3500?

the black connector coming off of the grey relay, what does that connector go to? I’ve tried looking up the wiring diagram and have had no luck.

It's been a while since I did this upgrade and don't remember much. I do know though that there were unused OEM connectors in the engine bay and this was just plug and play. Not sure if the extra pics will help. Good luck!

 

Edit: as per my signature, it's a 6.0L gas 3500HD

 

FWIW, It's been working well ever since I did it.

 

I personally would not mess around with aftermarket if I was given the chance to do it again unless for some reason I needed to upgrade the wiring. I have a nice aftermarket sound system installed with 1800 watts (2 Class A/B 900 watt amps at 4 ohm (6 x 150 per channel)) as well but as anyone will tell you the actual amp capacity needed to support even loud listening levels is well below the threshold of the alternator and wiring in this truck. This would be true except for SPL installs - that's a whole other animal. Just thought I'd throw that in there for anyone thinking they can't go with this OEM option as it won't be good enough for their car stereo system. 

20251226_092603.jpg

20251226_092554.jpg

Edited by eurobound

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...