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Highway miles when buying new

reardiff

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seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

I think Fidel Castro actually smoked cigars longer...He would have started around 8yr probably? Burns probably lit up later?

 

LOL So based on that cigars and cigarettes dont cause cancer........it's official!! LOL

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reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

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LOL So based on that cigars and cigarettes dont cause cancer........it's official!! LOL

 

Perfect, now at least I can light up on the way home and not have to worry about cancer, as my wife then asks what that horrible smell is when she gets in and tells me I should have got a Ford...

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

LOL I just traded into a new 2017 and won't do anything to disturb the new truck smell!!!!!!

Nanotech Environmental Enthusiast

Nanotech Environmental

Posted
Posted

 

Theoretical risk?? You are an example of "you can lead a horse to water but can't make him drink". So all of these manufactures and installers don't have any engineers or statistcal data as to why they give a recommendation?? Where are your statistics or articles of proven facts? All you have is a hardheaded opinion based on nothing? Hundreds of millions of axles and none of them failed?? Prove it. Where did anyone say the axle will fail due to improper break in?? Not me and not anyone above. Your literally making stuff up and spewing opinions based on nothing but what you think. I even said driving it home nothing will happen. BUT some of us who care to KNOW facts and respect our property and dont want future issues ( like whining) may want to explore proper recommendations. GM just wants you to make past their warranty period. Unless it fails they arent replacing anything thus their recommendation. Amazing that you see it in writing and a video by people in that bussiness but you know better? I bet your never wrong either. A properly set up diff still needs to be broken in as we just read. Just because you can't hear, sold the car two years later, or it didnt blow up does not mean there isn't an optimal proper way to break it in. George Burns smoked cigars his whole life and didnt get throat cancer..................millions of other people did get cancer. I expect your opinion to be you can smoke cigars and not get cancer!!

umm, ok.....feel better that you got that off your chest?

 

Let's just say that I have very good reasons for my position on this & that it's backed up with all kinds of data done by all kinds of 3rd parties, as well as many years of personal experience.

I know that from applicable personal experience that the 'break-in recommendations' about things like these are most certainly not provided for yours or my benefit. They are there to protect the manufacturer in case of that one in a million remote possibility that something goes wrong. Then the manufacturer can give those published 'recommendations' to their legal team to use against the plaintiff, or to potentially deny certain warranty claims.

 

If you think that your rear end break-in method is so critical, for starters I suggest you do a few quick searches on this site and see if you can find any posts relating to rear gear failures that were proven to be due to 'improper break-in', or 'not breaking it in as recommended by manufacturer'.....

This is a big site with a lot of posts over the past 10+ years. Maybe you'll find something.... or not. I've been on here about 9 years or so & I don't recall ever seeing one thread about it. Check out the other GM forums, Ford forums, Ram/Dodge, Toyota, Nissan etc. while you're at it. Given that very few people worry about 'proper' rear gear break-in, I'm sure there's bound to be a whole bunch if threads about it- if it's indeed as important as you claim. ....... Or not..... Thru this you will find all the proof your looking for.

Same thing with engines etc.

Your anecdote and conclusions about the Corvettes is what's known as a logical fallacy. Your metaphorical comparison about smoking and cancer are improperly applied to this situation as well.

 

Jus sayin'

Krusty Enthusiast

Krusty

Posted
Posted

Soon to be locked thread children............. :wtf:

 

In the camp of the 3rd member needing to break-in and mesh - the no towing for 500 miles is all about the 3rd member break-in............ :chevy:

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

"very good reasons" and "all kinds of data" Don't cut it. We all have opinions, but facts are facts. I will agree that some stiplulations are all for the benefit of big corporations for them to hang their hat on and deny you a claim. On that same note they tell you to do maintenance and change your oil. Some don't, then have engine issues and it's not the corporations fault you can't follow directions. That is a fair metaphorical comparison. Every mechanical thing has a failure rate. It can also be accelerated or slowed. All maintenance and proper break in does is slow the failure rate and have it give you a designed life cycle. Don't want to do it? It does not mean it will blow up. It will fail sooner than if you had followed directions...for the most part. Bad design is a bad design no maintenance will make one better than the other. But do 25K oil changes and compare to a guy doing 5K oil changes and report back after 250K. Who do you think will fair better with less issues?? I could go on but your stuck on opinion.

They have gone backwards from many failures and issues of many parts and concluded what caused it. Then they come up with a procedure to avoid it and have a longer life with no issues. Its called engineering. It's not always a corporate conspiracy. Although I never trust them! I have been working on and taking apart cars for over 40 years and in my experience and from what I have seen, the guys who ignore recommendations, drive it like they stole it, beat on their equipment, and don't do much maintenance have much more failures and issues than guys who don't. Also in 2008 when I bought my C6Z it had a couple hundred miles on it but sold as new. It whined like a bitch. Took it in and bam diagnoses= high heat destroyed fluid ruined rear, they said it was driven hard and fast too soon. Needed a whole new rear. It has 2000 miles on it and looked like it had been through a war. They gave me a very hard time considered it abuse. Brand new car, not set up wrong, broken in wrong.

I had changed the fluid on my 2015 yukon at 25K. It looked horrendous. Now on the 2017 I will do it sooner based on that. It's easy to break in correctly and change fluids, I can't see not doing it. Once again to the OP, it's your truck do what you want, the info is there from experts. Will it fail or blow up from driving on the highway.......no.

reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

Posted
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Posted

I will admit this has been interesting and passionate topic and certainly appreciate the advice on both sides. Based on everything above I'm going to drive it home the 300 miles but will find a two lane route where I get some small town traffic with some stops and starts and then vary the speeds on the open stretches going up and down though the gears. I can't make the trip down until Saturday, but they are able to take a deposit to hold it on Wed. Man this will be a long week....

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

I wo

 

I will admit this has been interesting and passionate topic and certainly appreciate the advice on both sides. Based on everything above I'm going to drive it home the 300 miles but will find a two lane route where I get some small town traffic with some stops and starts and then vary the speeds on the open stretches going up and down though the gears. I can't make the trip down until Saturday, but they are able to take a deposit to hold it on Wed. Man this will be a long week....

 

I would do the same it will seat those rings properly too...............don't get crazy just get a couple pulls into the 4k's and hold slightly and bring back down......that's all you need to do work the engine a tad. Up/down and you will not be burning oil later down the road.......enjoy!

 

I could care less about the ring/pinion never had problems with those components.....but yeah, baby the new motor on break in I will never do that again.......

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

I will admit this has been interesting and passionate topic and certainly appreciate the advice on both sides. Based on everything above I'm going to drive it home the 300 miles but will find a two lane route where I get some small town traffic with some stops and starts and then vary the speeds on the open stretches going up and down though the gears. I can't make the trip down until Saturday, but they are able to take a deposit to hold it on Wed. Man this will be a long week....

 

You will be fine. Do the intown driving a bit. Like mook said seat those rings, it wont take long. Then just dont beat on the motor. Don't baby it either. The diff is easy if you just get lunch and give a cool down once. At normal speeds you will not hurt anything the rest of the way. The guys that really hurt diffs either drag race or do high speed and heat. I was lucky with my 2017 recently in that the dealer was 30 miles from my house so I drove home at 65 mph after some revs and downshifts to seat the rings. Let it cool an hour, took it out again for 40 miles and came home and parked it. I hit the highway the next day at normal speeds and it's as quiet as a mouse, no issues. Now at 600 miles and have been getting on it. The lightweight synthetic GM uses in the rear looked nasty the last time so I will be changing much sooner to Amsoil on this truck.

 

Best of luck with the new truck, enjoy!

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

So…we believe that parts made of Unobtainium manufactured on state of the art CNC equipment with super fine finishes and space age coatings means a break in is not required for optimal performance? Then may I suggest we don’t understand the relationship between break in verses long term wear rates. That it’s likely we have never seen a wear rate curve and how break in effects the slope, the log and the length of that curve? How material and finish yes, but also load and lubrication effect it? If your measure for a break ins’ usefulness is based on catastrophic failure, then might I suggest the view point is too narrow.

 

Break in is a fancy term for ‘controlled wear’ whose purpose is only in part to mate finishes together in a pattern capable of sealing or carrying a stable lubrication phase. It also has the role of controlling temperatures of the oil and the expansion rates of the parts in interplay until those goals are accomplished. Finer finishes and more precise manufacture assist in limiting heat and expansion but it does not eliminate it. Harder materials or coatings help control heat but they are still are subject to load and speed. Manufacture and materials in the end move the boundaries in the direction of success but certainly do not eliminate them nor insure that it, the process, is successful.

Nanotech Environmental Enthusiast

Nanotech Environmental

Posted
Posted

"very good reasons" and "all kinds of data" Don't cut it. We all have opinions, but facts are facts. I will agree that some stiplulations are all for the benefit of big corporations for them to hang their hat on and deny you a claim. On that same note they tell you to do maintenance and change your oil. Some don't, then have engine issues and it's not the corporations fault you can't follow directions. That is a fair metaphorical comparison. Every mechanical thing has a failure rate. It can also be accelerated or slowed. All maintenance and proper break in does is slow the failure rate and have it give you a designed life cycle. Don't want to do it? It does not mean it will blow up. It will fail sooner than if you had followed directions...for the most part. Bad design is a bad design no maintenance will make one better than the other. But do 25K oil changes and compare to a guy doing 5K oil changes and report back after 250K. Who do you think will fair better with less issues?? I could go on but your stuck on opinion.

They have gone backwards from many failures and issues of many parts and concluded what caused it. Then they come up with a procedure to avoid it and have a longer life with no issues. Its called engineering. It's not always a corporate conspiracy. Although I never trust them! I have been working on and taking apart cars for over 40 years and in my experience and from what I have seen, the guys who ignore recommendations, drive it like they stole it, beat on their equipment, and don't do much maintenance have much more failures and issues than guys who don't. Also in 2008 when I bought my C6Z it had a couple hundred miles on it but sold as new. It whined like a bitch. Took it in and bam diagnoses= high heat destroyed fluid ruined rear, they said it was driven hard and fast too soon. Needed a whole new rear. It has 2000 miles on it and looked like it had been through a war. They gave me a very hard time considered it abuse. Brand new car, not set up wrong, broken in wrong.

I had changed the fluid on my 2015 yukon at 25K. It looked horrendous. Now on the 2017 I will do it sooner based on that. It's easy to break in correctly and change fluids, I can't see not doing it. Once again to the OP, it's your truck do what you want, the info is there from experts. Will it fail or blow up from driving on the highway.......no.

Seamus- so now you've made a big leap into lack of maintenance & somehow are trying to make that as part of your argument about break-in.... How about we stick to the topic? (maintenance isn't a fair metaphorical comparison)

Everyone knows that poor maintenance is going to cause problems. It's not ok to use it as part of your argument here.

You have one anecdotal issue that you've made an improper conclusion about and now are trying to extrapolate that across every vehicle out there- even ones that will never see similar lives. It is well known that the main cause of rear gear whine is improper setup. Something that can easily happen in a production vehicle. Improper setup can also cause heat levels to run higher than normal, which can cause, or accelerate failure. That combined with extreme use is a sure recipe for failure.

You are in effect comparing one single instance of a high performance vehicle that (very likely) spent most or all of it early days on the track under extreme use, to every other vehicle that will never see a similar life. Racing is very, very hard on rear gears no matter how they start their lives. Especially if there's a big horsepower engine in front. It appears that you have somehow concluded that all rear gearsets will fail because of this one instance.

Look, it's fine to me that you think you know something about this. I really don't care about that part of it. Nor do I care about your opinions about this.

You have one experience that appears to have caused you to have a substantial emotional bias about this. Emotional bias prevents people from looking at things in a logical manner.

Unfortunately your claims just aren't backed up by real world mass experience. That is why I challenged you to search for similar experiences on here or any other forum. You very likely won't find any.

In other words, the rest of the vehicle buying community simply isn't having rear end gear problems from normal use, no matter what 'break-in' method they use.

In essence what you are doing is called fear mongering. That part I do care about, and is why I responded to your first post about this. Your claims just aren't backed up in reality, so therefore aren't supportable. Sorry, they just aren't.

 

The OP hasn't indicated that they're going to do anything stupid or abnormal with their new truck. By all indications it seems they are going to pick it up and use it as most any normal person would. They aren't heading straight to the track for 200 miles of wide open use.

IMO they should worry most about seating those rings. If they use the method I mentioned earlier, they certainly aren't going to do anything harmful to the rest of the truck, as the loads they put on the drive train are well within design and use parameters.

 

If you want to call me hardheaded, or 'stuck in my opinions' or whatever other derogatory term you can come up with, go right ahead. Just look in the mirror as you're saying them.

 

I'm done here.

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

Wow...Just wow.

 

Hey rear diff, post some pics of the new ride when you get home! If you make it!! LOL Maybe get AAA before you leave! Best of luck with the new ride!

reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you and of course will share some pictures, because it never really happened if there's no pics to prove it. Saturday is the big day and weather is looking great. The one I'm looking at is sliver and looks really nice with the chrome. But there's also one in pepperdust metallic which I can't decide on. May be a at the moment decision, or if one has the dreaded vibration issue I have a fallback. I would ask which color everyone thinks looks best between the two but not sure I want to start that conversation ;)

 

All I know is this is shaping up to be the best day ever! Pick up new 2017 with 6.2, followed by 300 miles of worry free chain smoking, burnouts, and the occasional street drag. What could top that... :driving:

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

Exactly, God bless America !!

 

Definitely give both a nice test drive. You would be amazed at the difference in the exact same vehicles sometimes. I was in a similar postition years ago between two trucks. A few different options and color but same motor and rear. Couldn't believe the difference of feel and the responsiveness of the two. I questioned myself because intellectually my mind said the are the same exact truck? So I drove them back to back again and one was a clear winner. It was one of the best trucks I ever owned and longest I kept one, 6 1/2 years with no issues! You have two great color choices there, can't go wrong just drive them. Exciting day, enjoy and best of luck!!

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