Pre load in yolk help

[agatto2]

Hey guys i make a huge mistake... my u joint for the rear end semi exploded and i removed it..... it must have been happening for a while as the yolk was badly damaged.... so heres my problem

I removed the yolk without marking position. So now i have to figure a way to reassemble with a new yolk and get the preloading proper...

Any ideas

 

[silveradosid]

you will have to remove the axles and i believe its is 7 to 9 inch pounds of preload on a used diff

[It's Tim]

it must have been happening for a while as the yolk was badly damaged....

If the pinion bearings are trashed it may just be easier and less expensive in the long run to grab a rear end from the junkyard. Otherwise just torque the nut to 150 ft lbs at let her rip.

[agatto2]

If the pinion bearings are trashed it may just be easier and less expensive in the long run to grab a rear end from the junkyard. Otherwise just torque the nut to 150 ft lbs at let her rip.

Hey thanks for the reply... i am pretty sure i caught it in time before it mucked things up..... so if i just put the nut on (and dont remove the axels and tires) and torque to 150 should be good ? Do these not have a crush bearing in them?

[davester]

ha. you tighten the nut holding the pinion to 150 ft/lbs, kiss those bearings goodbye.

 

There is a pretty specific procedure for properly doing it, while reusing the original collapsible spacer, which you can't do because you didn't measure how much torque it takes to rotate the pinion prior to removal.

 

As well, the process for doing it with a new collapsible spacer is also pretty involved, requiring you to measure the torque needed to rotate the pinion and tightening the pinion nut until the rotating torque is just right.

 

I think you have 3 choices:

-bang it on yourself, hope for the best and start saving for another rear-end

-haul it to a shop to put it on with a new collapsible spacer, using the right procedure

-get another rear-end in there now

[It's Tim]

Hey thanks for the reply... i am pretty sure i caught it in time before it mucked things up..... so if i just put the nut on (and dont remove the axels and tires) and torque to 150 should be good ? Do these not have a crush bearing in them?

I applied this method to a RWD '90 I bought 12 years ago with the pinion nut barely hand tight, still driving it. If you choose to repair yours properly everything has to come apart.

[sdeeter19555]

The short is the axles have to be pulled.

 

Find some torque specs on how much rotational drag the pinion should drag (should be inch pounds, you will need a torque wrench with a analog dial), and set to the low side of that...as others said, you should have measured that before you pulled it apart, too late to worry about that now.

 

Don't torque the pinion nut to new specs, or you will most likely lock the pinion up. New specs are for an un-crushed crush sleeve, not a sleeve that is already crushed.

 

Oh, and use a new pinion nut...

 

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[agatto2]

This sounds about right... i will do this as i am confident i can do it properly

[sdeeter19555]

I need to restate, the axles AND the carrier need to be pulled...

 

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