Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I don't like how my truck being a Z71 GMs Off-Road package comes with All-Season tires. I ended up upgrading to Falken Wildpeak AT3 tires stock size 265/65R18. I like the tires so far. Ride quality is still good, good in mud, good in sand, good in the rain, and now just waiting for the snow to fall to see how they do in that. They look a lot better than the stock tires as well. Just wondering if anyone else is using these tires and see if there has been any issues so far.

 

IMG_20170927_185852_372.jpg

Edited by Gorske
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Bummer, no replies.

 

I am also considering this tire, and was curious what you think of it?

 

I am going to go with the 275/70R18 though, because that makes the tire dimensions 33.4" tall by 11" wide. 

 

Pretty cool website I found, you can input different tire sizes and play with the numbers and it will show you how it looks compared to stock size-wise, and what the exact dimensions are. It even tells you how many revolutions per mile and speedometer offset numbers! I stumbled across it while searching for wheels & tires, but after finding it I am just going to keep my stock wheels and upgrade the rubber when my tires wear out.

Here is the website if you're interested: https://tiresize.com/tires/Falken/Wildpeak-AT3W-275-70R18.htm

Screen Shot 2017-10-31 at 5.53.41 PM.png

Screen Shot 2017-10-31 at 5.53.16 PM.png

Posted

This tire is crushing the Cooper at3/atp market.

I love mine!! You can’t beat the price and the tire performance is incredible.

 

5e22c4c73406e5259cd85ebd44673a14.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted (edited)

My brother has these on his F-150. They've done well in the snow and mild off road stuff (he's on the fire department in town) but they seem to have worn fast. I don't know exactly how much he has driven but the amount of wear seems excessive to me. It has worn evenly at least.

Edited by MikeNH
Posted

I love my falken wild peaks! A very aggressive tire yet extremely quiet on the road! I’m running 305/55/20fa901a6b194172f093cc3108bb0e8063.jpg12eb2ff2cca0d5bbb243d605d196f1e8.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, MHPrior80 said:

I love my falken wild peaks! A very aggressive tire yet extremely quiet on the road! I’m running 305/55/20fa901a6b194172f093cc3108bb0e8063.jpg12eb2ff2cca0d5bbb243d605d196f1e8.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2" Level kit?  Any rubbing or spacers required to fit? 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm loving them so far as well. Made a few long distance trips since switching and still rides great for me. They hook great at the track as well. :)

Posted

I put these tires on my Sierra a little over a month ago. I went with P275/60R20 which is one size taller then stock (33" vs 32"). Got a pretty good deal on them from Discount Tire Direct ($130/tire after rebates). I have put about 3,000 miles on them so far. They have been good on the highway and are pretty quiet for an AT tire. Haven't really got any snow yet so I haven't had a chance to test them on slippery roads. When I was researching these tires, I really couldn't find any negative comments. If they wear well I would definitely buy again.

angle_front.jpg

front.jpg

side.jpg

tire_1.jpg

tire_2.jpg

tire_3.jpg

tire_4.jpg

tire_5.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
Sounds like these could be a good option.  Curious to see how they wear for you guys.
They seem to be a big seller at my local tire store...saw five pickups come in, and four left with the Falkens. My truck was the only one that left with Coopers. They run about 3/4 the cost of other tires.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Posted
On ‎10‎/‎31‎/‎2017 at 10:50 PM, steve76t said:

  2" Level kit?  Any rubbing or spacers required to fit? 

2.5 in level, only rub at full lock.  No spacers needed

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, MHPrior80 said:

2.5 in level, only rub at full lock.  No spacers needed

Nice!  I'm considering a 2.5 in. level kit as well & fitting either 305/55r20 or 276/60r20.  Nearly the same height, but the 305's are 1.5" wider than the 275's.  Don't mind adding spacers if that'll help avoid rubbing. 

Edited by steve76t
Posted

It probably will fix the rub at full lock but watch it if you add spacers as it will change the steering angles and may rub the bumper then. 

Posted

I have just under 5000 miles on mine.   The Duratec's are MUCH better.   But, for the price they are decent.   Have yet to try them in snow.   I notice they have more rolling resistance than the GYDT's as well.   Loss a little MPG.  About 1.   Rain is 8/10 with the GYDTs being 10/10.  they do run quiet as do the GYDTs.   I got 76K miles out of the GYDTs (traded truck for new one and the new one came with the Falks).   Based on how they do in the snow and the wear life will tell if I go back to the GYDTs.   Again, these are about $50-$70 cheaper per tire though.   

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,238 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...