Jump to content

5.3 Compression and fuel


Bowhunt24

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all, I can't seem to reliably find the compression on my '14 5.3L. I'm trying to nail this down because I'm quite curious about the fuel debate. I know there are a lot of opinions out there regarding which octane you should use, if it's better for the engine, better for mileage, etc, etc. Well, opinions shouldn't matter here, right? Based on the compression of the motor we should be able to do some basic math and figure out if a higher octane is even being fully burned or not. 

 

Maybe I'm off here...but maybe I'm not! Weigh in!

 

-Evan

Posted

What do you mean by fully burned?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Posted
34 minutes ago, m3n00b said:

What do you mean by fully burned?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

Maybe not the best word usage, but essentially, if you're engine compression is low enough, the extra cost of high octane fuel is absolutely worthless. IF the compression is high enough, the engines could actually take advantage of the higher octane. I can't seem to find what the compression is on my 5.3. 

Posted

Ah, I think I found it. 11:1. 

 

GM 5.3 Liter V8 EcoTec3 L83 Engine

The L83 V8 engine is produced by General Motors for use in pickup trucks and SUVs. It is part of GM’s Gen V Small Bock engine design that’s known in trucks as EcoTec3, replacing the Vortec line.

Type: 5.3L V8
Displacement (cu in / cc): 325 / 5328
Bore & stroke (in / mm): 3.78 x 3.62 / 96 x 92
Block material: cast aluminum
Cylinder head material: cast aluminum
Valvetrain: overhead valve, two valves per cylinder, variable valve timing
Ignition system: coil near plug, platinum-tipped spark plugs, low-resistance spark plug wires
Fuel delivery: direct fuel injection with Active Fuel Management
Compression ratio: 11.0:1
Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 355 / 250 @ 5600 (gas – SAE certified)
  380 / 283 @ 5600 (E85 – SAE certified)
Torque (lb-ft / Nm @ rpm): 383 / 519 @ 4100 (gas – SAE certified)
  416 / 564 @ 4100 (E85 – SAE certified)
Recommended fuel: regular unleaded or E85
Maximum engine speed (rpm): 5800
Emissions controls: close-coupled catalytic converter, Quick Sync 58X ignition, returnless fuel rail, fast-response O_ sensor
Estimated fuel economy (city / hwy): 16 / 23 (2WD)
  16 / 22 (4WD)



Read more: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l83/#ixzz4xCguSAxt

Posted

It's not that simple many factors to consider. Cam profile, combustion chamber design, tuning, and also these engines are direct injection.

Run the same engine on a dyno with 87 and 91/93. Determine whether you are getting knock with 87 and if it is pulling timing resulting in a power loss. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, O_J_Simpson said:

To find the compression, pull a spark plug and attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over...

He's referring to the compression ratio. Totally different measurements. 

Posted
6 hours ago, Bowhunt24 said:

Hey all, I can't seem to reliably find the compression on my '14 5.3L.

Do you have the Gen V L83 engine?  If so it is 11:1.

 

The Gen IV LC9 is 9.95:1 while the LMG is 9.6:1.

Posted
16 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Do you have the Gen V L83 engine?  If so it is 11:1.

 

The Gen IV LC9 is 9.95:1 while the LMG is 9.6:1.

I posted above, it's the L83 with 11:1. 

 

Doesn't seem like there is a right answer out there, mostly just preference on what octane people think is best to run for economy/perf. 

Posted

The higher the octane rating, the better your fuel economy will be.  There are plenty of people who disagree with that statement but I have proven it true in over thirty years of driving and testing with all manner of cars and trucks.  There's even a difference in performance between brands, even among top tier fuels which you'll have to work out on your own.  

 

Sunoco once offered the best performance for my vehicles but something changed and we get better mileage with our different vehicles using Mobil's 93 now.  Chevron is about equal to Mobil in our area as well.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...