Needs to know for Afm Delete

[Grumpy Bear]

4 hours ago, HBB said:

Just spent $5k getting the lifters, camshaft, etc... replaced due to this AFM... only 125k on the truck, not a fan of this poor quality 

And which part of these trucks is that not true of? Or manufacture for that matter? Did everyone miss the point were you spent a your money on a empty but pretty package? It's what passes for business today. Your strawberry's rot before you can get them home. Your new plastic siding warps on the first warm day. Your batteries are dead in the package. Your jeans are half weight and last a quarter as long. HELLO. Anyone in there? Your steel has turned to plastic. Your leather to pleather. Your woodgrain to a photo and you're paying quad-triple for it and not whining a bit. Good grief Charley Brown! 

 

Condemnation over and over and over fixes nothing and neither will and AMF delete if it is the lifter itself that is of 'poor quality'. A little thing that continues to go undefined by the way. Know what would be nifty? A solution. But you would have to define the scope of the issue first. How many AFM's out of all AFM's produced fail? Think that can's been kicked and it isn't many. Then exactly what the root cause is. Lifter failure is the terminal effect. Whhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhy? Root Cause! Anyone? 

 

4 hours ago, diyer2 said:

Solid lifters.

Oh the joy of adjusting them regularly for peak performance.

 

Some would call that Saturday afternoon task 'relaxing'.  I didn't but some would. 

[Johnny01]

Looking for a basic needs to know for what to expect and what i need to do following the delete.  I could not find much so if anyone could point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated

Johnny01: Ebay has AFM DISABLER for GM for $180.00 . You just plug it in the OBD11 PLUG AND IT STAYS IN V8 MODE 100% OF THE TIME.

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[amxguy1970]

On 3/24/2018 at 12:46 AM, Nasty said:

I average better mpg without afm. Afm is a joke

On 3/24/2018 at 6:42 AM, kevinfranklin said:

But it has to reduce the chances significantly, right?  I'm not engine mechanic but the folks who ARE and chime in on this topic sure seem confident it reduces the chances.......

Those guys aren't either, it is the internet, take it as you will...

 

Tyler

[KARNUT]

Add more moving parts to the value train, hang on a vacuum pump. Shouldn’t be a problem, right. I wouldn’t own one passed warranty.


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[CrewCabRyan]

I

On 3/23/2018 at 2:07 PM, diyer2 said:

Range device would be my choice.

I have one.

A tuner if you want to play.

 

If you get the range device, do you need to do anything with the flapper if you do a muffler delete? Does the flapper need to go too?

[grizz_wi]

3 hours ago, CrewCabRyan said:

I

If you get the range device, do you need to do anything with the flapper if you do a muffler delete? Does the flapper need to go too?

No it can stay, I did muffler delete with flapper.

[RedneckPsycho]

Hope I'm on the right section.

I need some help.  I had several problems with the afm on my 2010 silverado 5.3l.  I just completed an engine delete kit including a cam, lifters, standard volume oil pump and valley cover.  I know at this point I need to program this thing.  I talked to a local dealer and service manager would not give me a quote for anything, claiming he did not know what he had to 'FIX'.  Will the diablo i3 work to "disable" the afm or do I need to send out the ecm for a "delete"?

Obviously the valley cover is no longer plugged in

[Gagliano7]

Your diablo can turn off AFM or find a tuner they can program it for you.

[SS502]

46 minutes ago, Gagliano7 said:

Your diablo can turn off AFM or find a tuner they can program it for you.

I read where you're using the Range...if you didn't have that what tuner would you use? I don't want to do anything the dealer could see and I've read that the Range is not detectable? Thanks.

[flyingfool]

buy a used ecu off ebay and delete the VATS , then have it reprogrammed for no AFM, keep the origional ecu for warrantee work

[Gagliano7]

3 hours ago, SS502 said:

I read where you're using the Range...if you didn't have that what tuner would you use? I don't want to do anything the dealer could see and I've read that the Range is not detectable? Thanks.

I would use complete street performance if i was to get a dyno tune. https://www.diablewtune.com/ if i was to use a handheld tuner.

I hear any tuning they can tell but others say no. I went with the range for now until my warranty is up. I would actually rather do gears then tuning. It runs pretty dam good on the stock tune.

[SS502]

3 minutes ago, Gagliano7 said:

I would use complete street performance if i was to get a dyno tune. https://www.diablewtune.com/ if i was to use a handheld tuner.

I hear any tuning they can tell but others say no. I went with the range for now until my warranty is up. I would actually rather do gears then tuning. It runs pretty dam good on the stock tune.

Thank you, I have the 6.2 as well and it runs great. I do drive in L7 most of the time but (I know this is petty but still) I have to keep pushing the "shift" button to get it to L7 and it will eventually wear off the white lettering. I just ordered the Range (I'm still under warranty too, can't risk it) they had a $10 off the $199 price and free shipping. Thanks again for your replies!

[Gagliano7]

1 minute ago, SS502 said:

Thank you, I have the 6.2 as well and it runs great. I do drive in L7 most of the time but (I know this is petty but still) I have to keep pushing the "shift" button to get it to L7 and it will eventually wear off the white lettering. I just ordered the Range (I'm still under warranty too, can't risk it) they had a $10 off the $199 price and free shipping. Thanks again for your replies!

It will also shift nicer without that stupid V4 mode.

[crushNchowda]

AFM delete - I thought you meant actually getting rid of that crap hardware & replacing entirely new lifters/valves/springs/rockers/pushrods/cam - in which case you should probably start by speaking w/ a performance shop specializing in GM vehicles like Livernois Motorsports for instance.

 

There are off the shelf "DOD/AFM Delete kits" out there w/ everything you'd need.

 

My '15 Sierra 6.2 has already dropped a couple lifters & needed replacement + fuel rail for some reason. Didn't wipe my cam out b/c I noticed it well ahead of time. Since I have a '15 w/ 100k warranty I'd let them go & replace 'em again since I'm @ 61k miles....but if I start having issues again & I'm out of warranty or close to it if the rest of the truck is holding up fine (which seems to be the case) then I'll swap mine out too - knock a few birds out w/ a single stone. Get rid of the AFM, improve the longevity of the engine w/ some preventative maintenance of wear parts, increased performance/power, better sound. 

I do think tuning it off permanently helps w/ lognevity - you're asking the dod lifters to do less work & I also feel like there could be increased chance of carbon buildup on those as well if you're the type to set cruise control for long distances & live in a relatively flat state if you know what I mean. For real world reference on my G8 GT I had it tuned out along w/ complete custom tranny/engine tune then ended up yanking the AFM stuff entirely but it did last 90k while being turned off, meanwhile my '15 Sierra that is bone stock w/ "upgraded" latest & greatest GM AFM technology couldn't hit 40k before dropping/sticking valves....take that FWIW

 

 

Lastly...if it were my $$$ I Wouldn't waste it on a range device, I'd pay a little more & get a handheld tuner OR better yet a more customized mail order tune from someplace like Black Bear OR even better a truly custom dyno tune by a reputable local shop. They can always flash back to stock should you have an issue....& to be honest for the most part the issues you're going to have w/ drivetrain on these trucks seem to concern the AFM hardware more than anything......only warranty items I'd be concerned w/ would be the torque converter....which I'm on the fence as to whether its really the culprit in the shifting issues...but I'd happily swap it out for a higher stall heavier duty aftermarket unit & also the driveshaft, which if you decide to run @ drag strip or tune out governor & routinely run the truck up over 100mph then I would consider replacing it or anticipating an issue

[flyingfool]

i wonder if the PCV is contaminating the intake valves with sludge and coke residue, that this might be increasing stress and load on the AFM lifters thus causing all the wear..