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13 hours ago, jt metal said:

I thought the towing capacity of my praticular truck showed max tow rating at 14,400lbs. 

 

Minus; fuel/350lbs myself/200lbs, hitch/100lbs.(aluminum Andersen style) total 650lbs.

 

14,400 - 650 = 13,750lbs.

Minus trailer  -10,700lbs. 

 

Leaves me appx. 3000lbs of additional cargo. 

 

Motorcycle will be 900lbs off the bat. Leaving me 2100lbs. 

I'll verify door sticker and see what those numbers come to. I'm not going to lie........it's close! 

 

Going to skip the Tennessee Foothills. So, no major hill climbs. 

 

Any other input is appreciated. 

 

Going to verify squat on Friday. As to wether or not I'll need more support for rear of truck. 

 

There are a few different things going on here. 

 

#1, that isn't how you calculate payload or tow ratings.  Many trailers have a much lower % pin weight than most RV 5th wheels.  Gooseneck trailers, horse trailers, car carriers etc have a much closer to 15% pin weight than the close to 20% RV's put on the truck.  On a 14,400lb trailer that is 2160lbs vs 2880lbs, so while it may be possible for your truck to tow 14,400lbs it would have to be with the right setup. (Bumper pulls put even less weight on the truck)

 

#2, a full tank of gas is included in those payload numbers so that doesn't need to enter your calculation

 

#3, 2901lbs is actually very good for a 3/4 ton so that is on your side (my diesel High Country is only 2200lbs)

 

#4, you mention a motorcycle so I'm guessing this is a toyhauler.  That may actually play in your favor for the payload aspect.  The pin weight you mentioned is pretty high for the trailer weight (22%), which is common for toyhaulers becuase most of the cargo is loaded behind the trailer axles therefore actually taking weight off the pin.  They make toyhauler unloaded pin weight higher than normal so that when it is loaded it still is in the 18-20% GVWR of the trailer range. 

 

Lets take 2900-2300 (pin weight)- 200 (you)- 100 (hitch)

 

That leaves you 300lbs of payload left to play with for luggage, tools etc.

 

If it isn't a toyhauler and you are putting that motorcycle in your bed then you are well over payload.

Edited by brclark82
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42 minutes ago, brclark82 said:

There are a few different things going on here. 

 

#1, that isn't how you calculate payload or tow ratings.  Many trailers have a much lower % pin weight than most RV 5th wheels.  Gooseneck trailers, horse trailers, car carriers etc have a much closer to 15% pin weight than the close to 20% RV's put on the truck.  On a 14,400lb trailer that is 2160lbs vs 2880lbs, so while it may be possible for your truck to tow 14,400lbs it would have to be with the right setup. (Bumper pulls put even less weight on the truck)

 

#2, a full tank of gas is included in those payload numbers so that doesn't need to enter your calculation

 

#3, 2901lbs is actually very good for a 3/4 ton so that is on your side (my diesel High Country is only 2200lbs)

 

#4, you mention a motorcycle so I'm guessing this is a toyhauler.  That may actually play in your favor for the payload aspect.  The pin weight you mentioned is pretty high for the trailer weight (22%), which is common for toyhaulers becuase most of the cargo is loaded behind the trailer axles therefore actually taking weight off the pin.  They make toyhauler unloaded pin weight higher than normal so that when it is loaded it still is in the 18-20% GVWR of the trailer range. 

 

Lets take 2900-2300 (pin weight)- 200 (you)- 100 (hitch)

 

That leaves you 300lbs of payload left to play with for luggage, tools etc.

 

If it isn't a toyhauler and you are putting that motorcycle in your bed then you are well over payload.

Brclark82, 

Trailer is a toy hauler. To be honest, the trailer was an afterthought. 

And trailer shopping is very difficult. A very long bumper pull seems extremely sketchy to say the least. 

So, my options were a toy hauler where the bike sits in the kitchen and/or living space area, which I couldn't do. 

Or a very small 5th wheel with separate garage space. Obviously larger then the bumper pull. 

I was trying to figure things out on my own. Didn't want to rely on RV sales guy advise. You know how that goes. Lol! 

 

I knew I was cutting it close. 

 

Thank you for sharing your wisdom on this matter. I'm very great full........joe

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30 minutes ago, jt metal said:

Brclark82, 

Trailer is a toy hauler. To be honest, the trailer was an afterthought. 

And trailer shopping is very difficult. A very long bumper pull seems extremely sketchy to say the least. 

So, my options were a toy hauler where the bike sits in the kitchen and/or living space area, which I couldn't do. 

Or a very small 5th wheel with separate garage space. Obviously larger then the bumper pull. 

I was trying to figure things out on my own. Didn't want to rely on RV sales guy advise. You know how that goes. Lol! 

 

I knew I was cutting it close. 

 

Thank you for sharing your wisdom on this matter. I'm very great full........joe

Glad I could help.  It can get very confusing as most truck manufacturers are somewhat misleading when advertising capabilities (almost all advertised capabilities are with reg cab, short bed, WT, gas engine)  And RV salespeople obviously aren't gonna talk you out of buying something.

 

I will admit, I tow a 12,500lb 5th wheel with my truck and I am over my payload.  I am under front axle weight rating, rear axle weight rating and combined weight rating but with the pin weight I am over the GVWR (10,000lbs) of my truck by 400lbs.

 

I made this decision knowing that my engine/transmission/drivetrain/brakes can handle it (they are all identical to a 1 ton).  I have added the Timbren SES to my rear axle and believe it helps with the slightly lighter rear suspension my 3/4 ton has.  I would look into this if i were you, $200 and less than 30 mins DIY install. No difference unloaded ride quality but once you get enough weight it makes a big difference https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Timbren/TGMRCK25D.html

 

My next truck will be a 3500 DRW for sure.  I would upgrade now if the tech from the '19 1/2 tons had already made into the HD's.   

 

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1 hour ago, brclark82 said:

 

I will admit, I tow a 12,500lb 5th wheel with my truck and I am over my payload.  I am under front axle weight rating, rear axle weight rating and combined weight rating but with the pin weight I am over the GVWR (10,000lbs) of my truck by 400lbs.

 

 

 

Pot calling the kettle black?? Lol! 

Going to get hitch installed tomorrow. And loading trailer. 

 

Bringing a tape with me to measure the sag. What should I be looking for, as far as what's acceptable amount of drop? 

Will add your suggestion on helpers if needed. 

 

Joe

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2 hours ago, jt metal said:
15 minutes ago, jt metal said:

Pot calling the kettle black?? Lol! 

Going to get hitch installed tomorrow. And loading trailer. 

 

Bringing a tape with me to measure the sag. What should I be looking for, as far as what's acceptable amount of drop? 

Will add your suggestion on helpers if needed. 

 

Joe

Just trying to make sure you know what you signing up for, those toyhaulers can get very heavy, very fast!  

 

Also, good choice on the anderson hitch, they're awesome and easy to free up the bed when needed. Its what I use.

 

Maybe someone else can help you with the acceptable sag, my truck sits about level with the Timbrens and around 1900lbs on the hitch but not sure about actual measurements.

 

You should take the rig to a CAT scale when you get it just so you know what the actual weights are.  Being over your GVWR is one thing but being over an axle rating or your tire load rating is another.

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16 minutes ago, brclark82 said:

Also, good choice on the anderson hitch, they're awesome and easy to free up the bed when needed. Its what I use.

 

 

 

 

I went with the B&W turnable ball  w/Andersen aluminum hitch. Very light and easy to remove. 

That decision took time. As it's relatively new and unconventional, to me. 

 

I'll keep you posted.......

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3 hours ago, jt metal said:

Pot calling the kettle black?? Lol! 

Going to get hitch installed tomorrow. And loading trailer. 

 

Bringing a tape with me to measure the sag. What should I be looking for, as far as what's acceptable amount of drop? 

Will add your suggestion on helpers if needed. 

 

Joe

Joe - you want air bags if needed. It will SMOOTH out the ride - trust me.

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33 minutes ago, avalonandl said:

Joe - you want air bags if needed. It will SMOOTH out the ride - trust me.

Completely agree. Just wanted to see what I'm dealing with tommorow. 

Was going to order a Air Lift system. For $360.?? But in the long run. More bad things can happen. 

 

Thank you!

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I put my air bags on a couple weeks back... rides great... but the damn things leak.  No leaks detectable on fittings or tubing but a 700 mile round trip with the trailer lost 10 lbs in both bags.  I am going to redo all that plastic push lock crap with swagelok stuff lol.. my luck it's the bags themselves that leak. Should have bought timberens.

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9 hours ago, SierraHD17 said:

I put my air bags on a couple weeks back... rides great... but the damn things leak.  Should have bought timberens.

Sorry to hear! I just ordered the timberns.......after I found out I made a mistake. 

Load in bed will be 2500lbs. My bad. 

 

IDK.......

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On 9/12/2018 at 11:43 AM, cmysstailights said:

2015 6.0 high country

Pull a tt 38ft 10k lbs.

E85 6mpg

Wish it had a little more power with the hills a d better mpg. Debating supercharger or not

Sent using CRAP a talk
 

For the cost of adding a supercharger, you could upgrade to a diesel and save $$$ all around. 

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20 hours ago, cmysstailights said:

Im still on the fence, been reading guys with diesels seeing near 20mpg unloaded.

Sent from my SM-G935P using CRAP-a-talk
 

On flat stretches of road down at sea level maybe. 

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