Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
17 hours ago, MTindall said:

285/65/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers - No lift - No spacers - Stock wheels

 

That's 34.8" Diameter

 

It fits - no rubbing

 

119601610_10103094326826642_2574998786700707022_n.thumb.jpg.e92058a3486a344eca379805f63bd2ef.jpg

119510270_10103094312465422_3186227812565143886_n.jpg

Looks great!  I am going to leave my at4 as is without a level or lift.  Can anyone compare the Nitto Ridge Grapplers to K02's?  I had K02's on my '18 and liked them.  Never had the NRG's.

Posted
23 minutes ago, NonTypicalCPA said:

Looks great!  I am going to leave my at4 as is without a level or lift.  Can anyone compare the Nitto Ridge Grapplers to K02's?  I had K02's on my '18 and liked them.  Never had the NRG's.

I had K02s on my last truck and I hear slightly less Road noise from the NRGs. 
That being said - there is no guarantee the noise insulation on the trucks themselves isn’t different.

Posted
285/65/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers - No lift - No spacers - Stock wheels
 
That's 34.8" Diameter
 
It fits - no rubbing
 
119601610_10103094326826642_2574998786700707022_n.thumb.jpg.e92058a3486a344eca379805f63bd2ef.jpg
119510270_10103094312465422_3186227812565143886_n.thumb.jpg.d95c1e6af690300bba934a5f7d867ce3.jpg
Why would some AT4s come with 20s while others come with 18s? Which package dictated the difference? I have the AT4 with 18s and alot of posts are of 20s...[emoji1745]

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
18s are OEM standard 20s are an OEM option
Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
On 6/19/2019 at 6:01 PM, Canmaverick said:

Just picked up My new At4! And loving every minute of it! 

20x9 Fuel’s

275/65R20 KO2’s

 

123C9E20-C544-46D4-828B-F48CB53024D1.jpeg

75DBE9BE-BAE1-49BB-B44E-AB462C640E4B.jpeg

363AD220-E675-4F74-9602-42DF9C2EA93C.jpeg

Did u throw a lift/ level kit on this. Or is this factory?? 

Posted

I've read and read and I am still unsure.

 

I know I want to go with BFG KM3's on my bone stock 2020 AT4. IN 285 width they only come in 55 ratio which I don't want because I don't want to go smaller. I can't decide if I should just stay with the 275/65/20 or try the 295/60/20. Even the stock 275/60/20 Goodyears are only about 5/8' from the control arm. 

Posted

I read a lot on here before buying wheels and tires but never found exactly what I needed, so I thought I'd post my results for someone in the future.

 

I didn't want 20x10s because they stick out so far and because the tires always seem to rub. I did wanted to get out from under the wheel well a LITTLE, but was limited in wheels that I liked and available offset. Decided to go 20x9 +1mm offset.

 

For tires I wanted wider, and a little taller, but wasn't obsessed with max height. I don't like when tires are stuffed inside, and I HATE when tires rub. Why spend $50k and then have tires grinding into plastic or worse yet, cut your truck up to clear tires?   Ended up going 295/55-20 BFG ATs. I could have possibly run 295/60s, but was not willing to risk rubbing and no returns once mounted. I've seen others run 295/60, but not on a +1 offset.  Now that I have these in there, going 295/60 with this offset would have likely rubbed.  285/60 was also an option, but quite a bit more expensive and like I said, I cared more about width than height.

 

End results are great. No rub and has about 1/2" clearance at full lock leaving room for articulation off road with no run. The +1 offset left plenty of room for the upper control arm. Tires are about 1/2" outside fenders.

 

Mileage took a hit with these heavy ass tires, but I'm pretty happy with the look.  For reference, this is a stock 2019 AT4 with a rough country front level kit.

 

IMG_20200925_183201.thumb.jpg.fcc911cd87c37d8aeaa1a1bf4aa39fd7.jpgIMG_20200925_183237.thumb.jpg.0369d9156c110d30e7f0cf28f5b0a1ee.jpgIMG_20200925_190153.thumb.jpg.5b56b9f081783179fda4431ac88448df.jpgPXL_20200926_204049136.thumb.jpg.168cd917a28406f9de27b40e61d3ffa2.jpgPXL_20200926_204108906.thumb.jpg.ee0d3402b3baed00263ee8d504f63d71.jpgPXL_20200926_204128110.thumb.jpg.7764768842b7de68162501d62ef5e82d.jpg

IMG_20200925_183216.thumb.jpg.2e0997dd81c1f2e96f52e342af5164c4.jpg

IMG_20200925_183228.thumb.jpg.5c0c173dadb9ed56b9da6d3b478bbcef.jpg

IMG_20200925_183130.thumb.jpg.127c348e4a3d1a2e5cee476519741123.jpg

 

IMG_20200925_183106.thumb.jpg.52963a6d0dab70cf0d677fdf33d3fb0a.jpg

IMG_20200925_183147.thumb.jpg.b877d7397f5b32cfedd63e31b569c474.jpgIMG_20200925_143044.thumb.jpg.2d6b8674d5c2f42d3dfe3eda41dca08f.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

From what I'm reading on here and a FB group, it seems that no one is having a problem with the Motofab 1.5 lift. Has anyone experienced an issue? Like ball joint,etc.

Posted
25 minutes ago, mattsvtcobra said:

From what I'm reading on here and a FB group, it seems that no one is having a problem with the Motofab 1.5 lift. Has anyone experienced an issue? Like ball joint,etc.

I have had the 1.5” level for a year now and about 12k miles. I would still like to upgrade the UCA just because of the failure’s I have seen on FB but you are correct all the one’s I have seen failed are 2” level spacers which is what may be helping my controls stay okay so far. Hope it stays that way until I upgrade

Posted
53 minutes ago, asalinasz39 said:

I have had the 1.5” level for a year now and about 12k miles. I would still like to upgrade the UCA just because of the failure’s I have seen on FB but you are correct all the one’s I have seen failed are 2” level spacers which is what may be helping my controls stay okay so far. Hope it stays that way until I upgrade

I've had mine on for a while now, almost a year and a ton of miles... with no issues. For sure the ones I've seen are 2inch RC ones. Only 2 or 3, but there was also a guy with a completely stock truck with an issue. About to need tires and was about to go a little beefier ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...