Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
17 hours ago, MTindall said:

285/65/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers - No lift - No spacers - Stock wheels

 

That's 34.8" Diameter

 

It fits - no rubbing

 

119601610_10103094326826642_2574998786700707022_n.thumb.jpg.e92058a3486a344eca379805f63bd2ef.jpg

119510270_10103094312465422_3186227812565143886_n.jpg

Looks great!  I am going to leave my at4 as is without a level or lift.  Can anyone compare the Nitto Ridge Grapplers to K02's?  I had K02's on my '18 and liked them.  Never had the NRG's.

Posted
23 minutes ago, NonTypicalCPA said:

Looks great!  I am going to leave my at4 as is without a level or lift.  Can anyone compare the Nitto Ridge Grapplers to K02's?  I had K02's on my '18 and liked them.  Never had the NRG's.

I had K02s on my last truck and I hear slightly less Road noise from the NRGs. 
That being said - there is no guarantee the noise insulation on the trucks themselves isn’t different.

Posted
285/65/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers - No lift - No spacers - Stock wheels
 
That's 34.8" Diameter
 
It fits - no rubbing
 
119601610_10103094326826642_2574998786700707022_n.thumb.jpg.e92058a3486a344eca379805f63bd2ef.jpg
119510270_10103094312465422_3186227812565143886_n.thumb.jpg.d95c1e6af690300bba934a5f7d867ce3.jpg
Why would some AT4s come with 20s while others come with 18s? Which package dictated the difference? I have the AT4 with 18s and alot of posts are of 20s...[emoji1745]

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
18s are OEM standard 20s are an OEM option
Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
On 6/19/2019 at 6:01 PM, Canmaverick said:

Just picked up My new At4! And loving every minute of it! 

20x9 Fuel’s

275/65R20 KO2’s

 

123C9E20-C544-46D4-828B-F48CB53024D1.jpeg

75DBE9BE-BAE1-49BB-B44E-AB462C640E4B.jpeg

363AD220-E675-4F74-9602-42DF9C2EA93C.jpeg

Did u throw a lift/ level kit on this. Or is this factory?? 

Posted

I've read and read and I am still unsure.

 

I know I want to go with BFG KM3's on my bone stock 2020 AT4. IN 285 width they only come in 55 ratio which I don't want because I don't want to go smaller. I can't decide if I should just stay with the 275/65/20 or try the 295/60/20. Even the stock 275/60/20 Goodyears are only about 5/8' from the control arm. 

Posted

I read a lot on here before buying wheels and tires but never found exactly what I needed, so I thought I'd post my results for someone in the future.

 

I didn't want 20x10s because they stick out so far and because the tires always seem to rub. I did wanted to get out from under the wheel well a LITTLE, but was limited in wheels that I liked and available offset. Decided to go 20x9 +1mm offset.

 

For tires I wanted wider, and a little taller, but wasn't obsessed with max height. I don't like when tires are stuffed inside, and I HATE when tires rub. Why spend $50k and then have tires grinding into plastic or worse yet, cut your truck up to clear tires?   Ended up going 295/55-20 BFG ATs. I could have possibly run 295/60s, but was not willing to risk rubbing and no returns once mounted. I've seen others run 295/60, but not on a +1 offset.  Now that I have these in there, going 295/60 with this offset would have likely rubbed.  285/60 was also an option, but quite a bit more expensive and like I said, I cared more about width than height.

 

End results are great. No rub and has about 1/2" clearance at full lock leaving room for articulation off road with no run. The +1 offset left plenty of room for the upper control arm. Tires are about 1/2" outside fenders.

 

Mileage took a hit with these heavy ass tires, but I'm pretty happy with the look.  For reference, this is a stock 2019 AT4 with a rough country front level kit.

 

IMG_20200925_183201.thumb.jpg.fcc911cd87c37d8aeaa1a1bf4aa39fd7.jpgIMG_20200925_183237.thumb.jpg.0369d9156c110d30e7f0cf28f5b0a1ee.jpgIMG_20200925_190153.thumb.jpg.5b56b9f081783179fda4431ac88448df.jpgPXL_20200926_204049136.thumb.jpg.168cd917a28406f9de27b40e61d3ffa2.jpgPXL_20200926_204108906.thumb.jpg.ee0d3402b3baed00263ee8d504f63d71.jpgPXL_20200926_204128110.thumb.jpg.7764768842b7de68162501d62ef5e82d.jpg

IMG_20200925_183216.thumb.jpg.2e0997dd81c1f2e96f52e342af5164c4.jpg

IMG_20200925_183228.thumb.jpg.5c0c173dadb9ed56b9da6d3b478bbcef.jpg

IMG_20200925_183130.thumb.jpg.127c348e4a3d1a2e5cee476519741123.jpg

 

IMG_20200925_183106.thumb.jpg.52963a6d0dab70cf0d677fdf33d3fb0a.jpg

IMG_20200925_183147.thumb.jpg.b877d7397f5b32cfedd63e31b569c474.jpgIMG_20200925_143044.thumb.jpg.2d6b8674d5c2f42d3dfe3eda41dca08f.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

From what I'm reading on here and a FB group, it seems that no one is having a problem with the Motofab 1.5 lift. Has anyone experienced an issue? Like ball joint,etc.

Posted
25 minutes ago, mattsvtcobra said:

From what I'm reading on here and a FB group, it seems that no one is having a problem with the Motofab 1.5 lift. Has anyone experienced an issue? Like ball joint,etc.

I have had the 1.5” level for a year now and about 12k miles. I would still like to upgrade the UCA just because of the failure’s I have seen on FB but you are correct all the one’s I have seen failed are 2” level spacers which is what may be helping my controls stay okay so far. Hope it stays that way until I upgrade

Posted
53 minutes ago, asalinasz39 said:

I have had the 1.5” level for a year now and about 12k miles. I would still like to upgrade the UCA just because of the failure’s I have seen on FB but you are correct all the one’s I have seen failed are 2” level spacers which is what may be helping my controls stay okay so far. Hope it stays that way until I upgrade

I've had mine on for a while now, almost a year and a ton of miles... with no issues. For sure the ones I've seen are 2inch RC ones. Only 2 or 3, but there was also a guy with a completely stock truck with an issue. About to need tires and was about to go a little beefier ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...