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Replacing faulty magneride shock assemblies

Devin
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Devin New Member

Devin

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, new here, but could really use some help with my 2015 GMC 1500 Sierra Denali. About 2 months ago, my truck started making this squeaky/clunky noise. Took it into the GMC dealership and they said both front shock assemblies needed replacing. Well, as you all know, those shocks are like $700/piece and the total bill was like $1900 for two front shocks. Crazy!

 

I would like to put a leveling kit on the truck with some more aggressive AT 33's, so I figured I'd have all this done at the same time. Should I replace all four shocks, or just the front two? Can anyone recommend some shock assemblies that won't completely break the bank but that will give me a good ride? I've had several friends go with Fox. Also, if anyone can recommend a good shop in Charlotte, NC to get the work done I'd really appreciate it!

 

Thanks in advance!

truck.jpg

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, Devin said:

Hey guys, new here, but could really use some help with my 2015 GMC 1500 Sierra Denali. About 2 months ago, my truck started making this squeaky/clunky noise. Took it into the GMC dealership and they said both front shock assemblies needed replacing. Well, as you all know, those shocks are like $700/piece and the total bill was like $1900 for two front shocks. Crazy!

 

I would like to put a leveling kit on the truck with some more aggressive AT 33's, so I figured I'd have all this done at the same time. Should I replace all four shocks, or just the front two? Can anyone recommend some shock assemblies that won't completely break the bank but that will give me a good ride? I've had several friends go with Fox. Also, if anyone can recommend a good shop in Charlotte, NC to get the work done I'd really appreciate it!

 

Thanks in advance!

truck.jpg

Have a look at the Bilstein 4600 and 5100. Most on here seem to favor the 5100, so look into them and see which appeals to you.  For the rear, you should be able to run the 5160 which has a remote reservoir.  Can't go wrong with Fox but Bilstein is easier on the bank and works really well with these GM trucks.

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

Those shocks have electronic inputs/outputs.  If you unplug them they will set all sorts of suspension and stabilitrack codes.  I don't know much about the aftermarket shocks, and if they are just plugged in to original plugs and/or connectors, but something will have to be done to compensate unplugging the original shocks. 

Glava2876 Enthusiast

Glava2876

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, Devin said:

Hey guys, new here, but could really use some help with my 2015 GMC 1500 Sierra Denali. About 2 months ago, my truck started making this squeaky/clunky noise. Took it into the GMC dealership and they said both front shock assemblies needed replacing. Well, as you all know, those shocks are like $700/piece and the total bill was like $1900 for two front shocks. Crazy!

 

I would like to put a leveling kit on the truck with some more aggressive AT 33's, so I figured I'd have all this done at the same time. Should I replace all four shocks, or just the front two? Can anyone recommend some shock assemblies that won't completely break the bank but that will give me a good ride? I've had several friends go with Fox. Also, if anyone can recommend a good shop in Charlotte, NC to get the work done I'd really appreciate it!

 

Thanks in advance!

truck.jpg

I have the same year Denali only Black with about 36k miles and my shocks are fine -no surprise. I have a couple of questions: How many miles on your Denali? It seems odd that they would both go bad at one time -or is it that one is bad so they want/ need to replace both at one time? Did you double check with another dealer just to be sure that the noise isn't something else? 

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

This is why we opted for the extended warranty and made sure the shocks were covered.  Mag ride is expensive and chances are, (at least for us and our luck) they will go bad within 100k miles. 

I'm sure there are some on here that can offer more info.  But you need to put the original style shock back on to keep from getting any warning lights since it is a magnetic ride suspension.

Devin New Member

Devin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 minutes ago, Glava2876 said:

I have the same year Denali only Black with about 36k miles and my shocks are fine -no surprise. I have a couple of questions: How many miles on your Denali? It seems odd that they would both go bad at one time -or is it that one is bad so they want/ need to replace both at one time? Did you double check with another dealer just to be sure that the noise isn't something else? 

I just passed 60k miles. I originally took it to a local shop who couldn't figure out what it was, but when I took it to GMC, they knew almost immediately. You can push down on the front bumper on either side and re-create the creaking noise. It is about the most annoying thing driving right now because it's so noisy and you can feel it too. I went to a local truck shop in Charlotte and got a quote for a leveling kit and new front shocks but it seemed high. The shocks & struts they want to use is the Fox 2.0 Coil overs (link below). 

 

https://www.americantrucks.com/fox-20-performance-series-coilover-ifp-front-0915.html?utm_content=AT Handling - Shock/Strut|FOX&T5_Var4=T527512-A&utm_campaign=ATF+F150+Brands+Medium&dialogtech=ppc&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=orange&intl=0&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6fvdBRCbARIsABGZ-vSL5-udp1gR6MeaAtJQynhGX0te5WUKSP7FAYxDNzkdK9b-nm5JAwQaAosJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Quote.jpg

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Do some research. You can install resistors at each corner then install whatever shocks you want. Probably some aftermarket makes a kit but you could wire,  solder, shrink tube your own.

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Lgetz said:

http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html

 

Hello Devin look into this magnetic suspension delete kit.  This will allow replacement of your blown OEM shocks with Bilstein, Monroe, Fox, etc....shocks.  

Good luck.

Great info.  I have seen quite a few of these shocks go out lately.  Although most that have these vehicles afforded the replacement of originals, but good to know esp when these vehicles get some years on them and not so wealthy people get ahold of them. 

Skidsareforkids Enthusiast

Skidsareforkids

Posted
Posted

My wife has managed over 100,000 miles on hers with no problems, but if I have any issues with mine outside warranty I’ll definitely get a delete kit and standard shocks...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted

I've got a 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 with 69k miles. While my Magneride shocks haven't completely failed on me, they aren't that great of a ride. I've been researching this and below is what I've decided, keep in mind this is just my opinion and based on my personal preferences:

 

1. Magneride system. Based on price, I will not replace my Magneride shocks with Magneride shocks. You can buy a VERY nice aftermarket kit (adjustable coilovers, upper control arms for better clearance, extended rear shocks, extended leaf spring blocks, and new u-bolts) for less than the stock Magneride system.

2. Service Suspension code. As others have mentioned, you will get a code if you unplug the Magneride coilovers/shocks/level sensors. If you do remove them, you have 3 options: 1 - Dismiss the notification every time you turn on your car (No dollar cost, but may cost you your sanity). 2 - As previously mentioned, you can get resistors (25 watt, 3 ohm) and splice/wire them into your factory harnesses for each shock and level sensor (resistors are about $2 each (need 8)...and if you don't have wire, taps, heat shrink, and a heat gun add another $30-40). 3 - Purchase the x-ineering bypass kit (Regularly $425, but $350 if you post about your install on social media). I chose to buy the x-ineering bypass kit because it's plug and play with the existing wire harnesses. That means it seals the plug (as if the Magneride shocks and level sensors are plugged in) so no corrosion occurs and it's backed by a warranty. I was going to splice the resistors in, but I ended up not liking that I would be stripping factory harnesses and hoping my seal would not lead to corrosion/electrical issues. I've been down that path before with other vehicles and decided this truck was worth the investment of a full-proof, professional solution - even if it's expensive. http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html 

3. Coilover/Shock/Level/Lift kit. If you don't want to spend a lot of money and want a decent ride go with a Fox or Bilstein kit. I want the best ride I can get with a 2-3" lift in the front and 1" in the rear. Did a ton of research and Halo Lifts came out on top. They are super popular with F-150 guys and have been selling more and more to GM guys. Do a google search and you can find a ton of reviews by guys in forums (including this one) that say it's the best ride they've ever had - even having used other brands. The Ultimate Kit is what I'll be ordering, may get the Chaos upper control arms too. https://www.halolifts.com/GM_c_146.html

4. Replace only front, rear, or both at same time? I am a fan of doing it all at the same time. Yes, your rears could last you longer. But they could also go right after you only do the fronts. If you're doing one, might as well do the other at the same time to be done with it.

5. Aggressive AT 33's. I am putting on new AT 33's at the same time as the new suspension. Downsizing from 22" rims to 18" rims as well to get a softer ride. After all my research online and talking to a few tire shops I decided on the the Falken Wildpeak AT3's. Tire size is 275/70r18. Do a google search of that tire and you'll see all of the crazy good reviews.

6. Can't recommend a shop since I'm not from your area. Been to NC before and enjoyed it though :-)

 

Good luck with whatever you decide.

  • Like 1
Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, midwestdenaliguy said:

I've got a 2016 Sierra Denali 1500 with 69k miles. While my Magneride shocks haven't completely failed on me, they aren't that great of a ride. I've been researching this and below is what I've decided, keep in mind this is just my opinion and based on my personal preferences:

 

1. Magneride system. Based on price, I will not replace my Magneride shocks with Magneride shocks. You can buy a VERY nice aftermarket kit (adjustable coilovers, upper control arms for better clearance, extended rear shocks, extended leaf spring blocks, and new u-bolts) for less than the stock Magneride system.

2. Service Suspension code. As others have mentioned, you will get a code if you unplug the Magneride coilovers/shocks/level sensors. If you do remove them, you have 3 options: 1 - Dismiss the notification every time you turn on your car (No dollar cost, but may cost you your sanity). 2 - As previously mentioned, you can get resistors (25 watt, 3 ohm) and splice/wire them into your factory harnesses for each shock and level sensor (resistors are about $2 each (need 8)...and if you don't have wire, taps, heat shrink, and a heat gun add another $30-40). 3 - Purchase the x-ineering bypass kit (Regularly $425, but $350 if you post about your install on social media). I chose to buy the x-ineering bypass kit because it's plug and play with the existing wire harnesses. That means it seals the plug (as if the Magneride shocks and level sensors are plugged in) so no corrosion occurs and it's backed by a warranty. I was going to splice the resistors in, but I ended up not liking that I would be stripping factory harnesses and hoping my seal would not lead to corrosion/electrical issues. I've been down that path before with other vehicles and decided this truck was worth the investment of a full-proof, professional solution - even if it's expensive. http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html 

3. Coilover/Shock/Level/Lift kit. If you don't want to spend a lot of money and want a decent ride go with a Fox or Bilstein kit. I want the best ride I can get with a 2-3" lift in the front and 1" in the rear. Did a ton of research and Halo Lifts came out on top. They are super popular with F-150 guys and have been selling more and more to GM guys. Do a google search and you can find a ton of reviews by guys in forums (including this one) that say it's the best ride they've ever had - even having used other brands. The Ultimate Kit is what I'll be ordering, may get the Chaos upper control arms too. https://www.halolifts.com/GM_c_146.html

4. Replace only front, rear, or both at same time? I am a fan of doing it all at the same time. Yes, your rears could last you longer. But they could also go right after you only do the fronts. If you're doing one, might as well do the other at the same time to be done with it.

5. Aggressive AT 33's. I am putting on new AT 33's at the same time as the new suspension. Downsizing from 22" rims to 18" rims as well to get a softer ride. After all my research online and talking to a few tire shops I decided on the the Falken Wildpeak AT3's. Tire size is 275/70r18. Do a google search of that tire and you'll see all of the crazy good reviews.

6. Can't recommend a shop since I'm not from your area. Been to NC before and enjoyed it though :-)

 

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Thanks for all the great info.  The Suburban is my wifes ride.  She loves it and so I just maintain it. :)  We got the extended warranty.  I guess when that warranty runs out then I will go this route.  I will say this much.  I'm not impressed with the MagneRide.  Feels really harsh.  Going over speed bumps really can jar ya.  Heck my 2002 seems to take speed bumps better.

midwestdenaliguy Enthusiast

midwestdenaliguy

Posted
Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

Thanks for all the great info.  The Suburban is my wifes ride.  She loves it and so I just maintain it. :)  We got the extended warranty.  I guess when that warranty runs out then I will go this route.  I will say this much.  I'm not impressed with the MagneRide.  Feels really harsh.  Going over speed bumps really can jar ya.  Heck my 2002 seems to take speed bumps better.

No problem, firm believer in contributing back to forums as others have saved me lots of $$$ and headache. I had a 2008 Escalade with Magnetic Ride Control and was never super impressed with the ride. To be fair, the Mag shocks have been designed to have better dampening and not necessarily a "softer" ride. Regardless, they're crazy expensive and not worth replacing when you can get a better ride for less with an aftermarket kit.

Edited by midwestdenaliguy
damnthetorpedoes Enthusiast

damnthetorpedoes

Posted
Posted

I swapped out the Mag shocks on my previous Denali with Bilstein 4600 and was very happy with the improvement in ride quality. I just spliced in resistors at all corners to eliminate any dash warning message. At the time I wasn't too crazy about cutting off the connector to splice in the resistor, but now I can't see a reason to ever want to convert back. The dealer doesn't even look at that when trading it in.

  • 10 months later...
Gixxer188 Enthusiast

Gixxer188

Posted
Posted

Sorry to restart an older topic but I find myself in this exact situation and I'm looking for options that don't break the bank.

 

My 2016 Sierra already has a 1.5" front lift and 2" rear lift and I'm not looking to lift it any higher and also not interested in larger tires, the 20's are fine.  I have read all of the above and thank you for posting all of that info, it's very helpful but also still a very expensive option to go with the Halo Lifts and the Xinerring options.

 

I spoke to Rancho Tech support yesterday and they told me that if I were to swap from Active to Passive and not splice in resistors that my truck my limit the speed, has anyone else heard or or experienced this?  True/False?

 

As for splicing in resistors, I did this to my wife's 2011 Tahoe LTZ with the Z55, swapped the electronic front and auto-leveling air rears to Passive and spliced in the provided resistors and there have been zero issues.  But, the resistors for the Sierra are different than those for the Tahoe, so does anyone have a source, band, URL, info on them?

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