Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
33 minutes ago, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Yeah hey. I wonder if the dealership can silence the alarm that would be perfect as long as theres no ringing id be happy lol

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2019-02-18 at 11:18 AM, TenshiWingusu said:

I hear ya. I would check the resistance on the new switch in both positions, you can force the latch closed with a screwdriver then pop it with the interior hood release. If the switch is in the spec mentioned above it's either bad wires somewhere or the control module has issues.

Do you think if I unplugged that sensor and got a aftermarket remote start would it work? Or would the aftermarket remote start still need to know that the hood is closed so would have to stay plugged in

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 4/20/2019 at 1:54 AM, nissyota88 said:

Can someone please show me a wiring diagram and pins on bcm. This truck got in a wreck and has a different wiring harness, but came stock with a hood switch with no pigtail

What model year truck do you have?

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2008 Chevy equinox that the factory remote start stopped working on. No service engine lights. No indication that a door or hood is open. I’ve changed the gas cap and even checked the tire pressure even though no lights indicated such problem. However I’m still having the same issue. The remote start won’t start the vehicle. The key fob locks/ unlocks the vehicle any and every time a button is pushed. Even illuminates the light when attempting to remote start but it’s like the process just stops. I’m lost definitely could use some ideas and can’t afford a garage to fix it. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

One evening my 2018 stock alarm went off...I thought I must have hit the panick button on my remote...

The next morning I could not remote start the truck...

I get in, start it, and my hood open message was on with my check engine light...I checked the hood several times and it was opening and closing as it should...

Searched and found this post, measured the resistance between the black and red wire on the hood sensor connector and it read 529 ohms ope or closed.

Replaced the hood sensor and it fixed the open hood message and then I had to clear the code...

 

Tempatures were in the 20's to 30's and I had 51,000 miles...Makes no sense.

Posted

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/17/2019 at 1:57 PM, Linden16 said:

Yeah its the whole late assembly correct. So i installed that and still have the same problem yup.. not sure what else could be causing it. And like i said it only rings when the trucks cold. After a few minutes of driving it stops

Hey Everyone, just had this problem on my 2018 Silverado LT. I think i found the issue. If you go to the hood with it closed and push down lightly on the hood even with your finger it will have some play. Open the hood, there are 4 rubber "standoffs" i'll call them. They keep the hood a certain distance from the plastic cover on the inside. turn them to the right they go down, turn left they stick out further. I just loosened mine so the hood would stand off the truck a bit further this makes the hood engage the latch more to hold it down. I think that movement of the hood was making the sensor think the hood was open because there was no pressure against the latch from the hood. 

Posted (edited)

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Edited by Jason56
  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, Jason56 said:

Hey y’all just wanted to post that I tried the resistor and it worked!  I bought 2.2k ohm resistors off Amazon and soldered it in.  I was getting +\- 520 ohms with the hood open or closed so I knew it was the sensor.  Thanks for posting!

Can you post a link to the resister?

Thanks

Jim

Posted

The resistance values (ohm's) stated earlier in the thread are correct, ~740 and ~2.2k ohms for opened and closed respectively. The linked 2.2k ohm resistors should work fine bypassing the switch.

 

For anyone having the issue, GM has a TSB out for this specific issue as well, regarding loose/bad grounds. If the resistance values of your hood switch are within spec. You may have a bad ground.

 

In my case it turned out to be caused by the ground braid (labled 3). Under the hood on the drivers side firewall. It is a thick braided flat steel cable bolted to the body cowl, bolt was lose an jiggled around. Throwing hood sensor codes (short to battery & open circuit). You may need to check the opposite end of the ground braid as well on the left rear cylinder head.

 

https://imgur.com/a/kddguGK

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra Denali 1500. The hood open alarm comes on when I have to much going on inside the truck, for instance if I have my AC full blast and AC seats (passenger/driver) going all at the same time the alarm will start to chime. I unplugged it before and it stopped. I was able to continue as normal. I am not to sure if it’s just the hood sensor or if the problem may go deeper, like to the BCM. Can anyone let me know if changing the sensor out would be the fix?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...