Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, Jeepincbum55 said:

  Who remote starts their vehicle and gets in and waits more than 5 mins to push the button?   :) 

 

  • GM Program #:
  • N202294820
  • Date Issued:
  • Feb 21, 2020

Program Title:

Brake System Control Module Interaction with the MyBrand App Remote Start Feature

Program Description:

The brake system control module software in these vehicles may contain an error. If (i) the vehicle is started remotely using the MyChevrolet, MyGMC, or MyCadillac mobile app or (ii) the driver enters the vehicle and waits five or more minutes before starting the vehicle using the ignition, this software error can, in rare cases, disable the vehicle’s electronic brake assist and illuminate the ESC, ABS and BRAKE telltales. This occurs at startup and the telltales are illuminated before the driver puts the vehicle into gear.

 

Repair Description:

Dealers will reprogram the brake system control module.

Remote start with the app or enter the truck and wait more than 5 minutes before starting. This occurred to me while routing the charger for my dash cam. I was sitting in the passengers seat for a while and it got cold so I leaned over to remote start it. The light cam on shortly after, There has also been times when I returned to the truck to waiting for my wife and kids and didn't start it right away. 

Posted (edited)
On 2/24/2020 at 1:38 PM, lebag335 said:

I was just in for an oil change last week and my dealer actually advised AGAINST getting the update because GM hasn't perfected it yet.  I told them they could do the recalls when I traded it in in a few years as mine's driving great.  I won't even let them do the seat belt one for fear of them damaging my trim pieces.   

Thanks

Edited by Chris walker
Posted

I often wonder about the urgency that companies have with these types of issues. Is there one guy working on this that is knocking off at 4:00pm to beat rush hour traffic or do they have 10 people working on it around the clock?

Posted
2 hours ago, Chris walker said:

I often wonder about the urgency that companies have with these types of issues. Is there one guy working on this that is knocking off at 4:00pm to beat rush hour traffic or do they have 10 people working on it around the clock?

In my honest opinion I don’t think anyone’s working on him I can’t even get a response after three weeksIn my honest opinion I don’t think anyone’s working on him I can’t even get a response after three weeks

Posted
On 2/24/2020 at 2:59 PM, BDuscher said:

I was told by GM I had to park mine and drive the  rental until I hear from them. I have had nothing but issues. 

Have you started the Lemon process yet? If not why?

Posted

Back to the dealer I go, I went 2k miles no issues... started with the app this morning and itsssss backkkkk! GM is buying this truck back from me. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, Jswaze88 said:

Back to the dealer I go, I went 2k miles no issues... started with the app this morning and itsssss backkkkk! GM is buying this truck back from me. 

Good luck, let me know how it goes, I am fighting them now.

Posted
8 hours ago, slednchick said:

Have you started the Lemon process yet? If not why?

I am looking into it, not sure where to start or what to do. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, BDuscher said:

I am looking into it, not sure where to start or what to do. 

Google your state local lemon law. All states are different, I started the process proactively by sending a certified letter to GM Compliant with my stare  lemon law. Sending the second letter today and getting the BBB involved. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jswaze88 said:

Google your state local lemon law. All states are different, I started the process proactively by sending a certified letter to GM Compliant with my stare  lemon law. Sending the second letter today and getting the BBB involved. 

Did your letter to GM specifically say "FINAL REPAIR NOTICE"?  If not, send another one. The BBB won't process your case without it. 

Posted
55 minutes ago, slednchick said:

Did your letter to GM specifically say "FINAL REPAIR NOTICE"?  If not, send another one. The BBB won't process your case without it. 

Yes I found a free example letter online and utilized their template. Second letter being submitted today. Since the letter was sent GM calls me once a week. Useless conversation but I have them calling me now 

Posted
4 hours ago, Jswaze88 said:

Yes I found a free example letter online and utilized their template. Second letter being submitted today. Since the letter was sent GM calls me once a week. Useless conversation but I have them calling me now 

You are wasting your time. lemon law it. Final repair notice is going to do shit. I won my lemon law case within 3 months. 

Posted
6 hours ago, BDuscher said:

I am looking into it, not sure where to start or what to do. 

google a lemon law attorney if your state. They take the cases for free and get paid by Gm at the end.  All you need to get the ball rolling is a phone call. Right off the bat they will tell you if its worth it to peruse. Lemon laws are pretty cut and dry.  I didn't do a damn thing but email all my repair orders to them and my purchase agreement. 3 months later I got a huge check. Traded in the truck and now drive another brand. 

Posted

I just had this second brake recall done today(had the first brake recall done in January). Wife was driving when all the warning lights came on and she lost most braking power. Thankfully she didn't panic and was able to slow it down and nursed it the short distance home.  I got it and it had the following 'Service ABS'...'Service Trailer Brake'...'ESC disabled' and 'Speed limited to 100km/h' and the check engine light. Turned the truck off and back on and everything went away except the check engine light. Took the truck out and hammered the brakes on the snow covered road and the ABS worked perfectly, as did the Stabilitrak. On my way to the dealership I accelerated past the 100km/h without an issue. They had it for a couple hours and reprogrammed the brake module. I guess we will see what happens. 

Don't know if anyone has seen or read it the manual but it says you can press the parking brake button and hold it down and it will slow the truck down. I wonder if that will work even if the brake system module malfunctions again? 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, ct_corey said:

google a lemon law attorney if your state. They take the cases for free and get paid by Gm at the end.  All you need to get the ball rolling is a phone call. Right off the bat they will tell you if its worth it to peruse. Lemon laws are pretty cut and dry.  I didn't do a damn thing but email all my repair orders to them and my purchase agreement. 3 months later I got a huge check. Traded in the truck and now drive another brand. 

That’s exactly what is happened to me and pushing the parking brake does not do anything because it’s considered on the parking break only works when the vehicle is in a stopped position I tried everything to stop my truckThat’s exactly what is happened to me and pushing the parking brake does not do anything because it’s considered on the parking break only works when the vehicle is in a stopped position I tried everything to stop my truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...