Jump to content

5.3 Metal flakes


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, so my 2004 Silverado's LM7 is at about 174k Miles and every oil change since about 156k (I bought the truck around 155k) has been full of metal. When I got the truck it made zero noise, but a month or two in, I noticed when it was warm it would make a clattering noise for about 30 seconds on start up and go away, did not do this on cold starts. I then noticed my oil looked like glitter with a few decent sized shavings. being a broke 17 year old, I ignored it. it has progressively gotten worse, during colder weather it knocks on cold starts along with the warm start clattering. Oil pressure currently is about 45 psi cold and 30-35 warm and 45 around 2500rpm warm. When I frist got the truck those readings were a bit higher each. Im curious if this sounds more like a cam and lifter issue or bearing issue. My friend's 2003 LM7 with 112k miles makes the exact same clattering in the same way mine does but his oil pressure readings are slightly better and I don't think he's ever found metal. Im stumped, and its too cold out for me to investigate. The truck has been parked for 2 months from a separate issue and Im wondering what to do with it at this point considering the engine issue. 

Posted

Sounds like you have some issues. I would look up a local shop that can run a oil test and let you know what part of the engine is flaking as shops have that ability to tell you if it's the cam or the crankshaft bearings. Regardless you've got your hands full with this and being that you said you were in the cold weather you might want to wait until things are better weather wise. I did notice you said your oil pressure was down which is probably because it's clogged with flakes so I wouldn't be running it then starving the engine for oil. Might be best to do an engine oil analysis. Any machine shop should be able to point you in the right direction. Or just Google it as well. You can always use mail services where you send it out and get it analyzed and they can email or send you the results.

Needless to say the top or the bottom in will be coming off but probably both and depending on how expensive it is you might be better served finding a good used engine what's good compression and slapping it in there and getting the core credit for the block. You say you live in the cold weather where do you live at if you don't mind me asking?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I live in Wisconsin, my brake lines failed and I decided to let the truck sit until spring when I could fix it myself. I was planning on pulling the oil pan and inspecting the rod bearings and pulling the heads if the rod bearings looked ok. But at the same time the truck is pretty rusty, the frame in particular, and I don’t know if the effort is completely worth it. 

Posted

I'm still rocking my 04 with a 4.8 and 123k miles. I am on disability so I don't use it as a daily driver except less than a mile to the high school to take my daughter to school.

I have the parts for what would be about $2500-$3k worth of work at a dealership to install but I just need to get my garage cleaned out. I have a neighbor lady nice enough to let me use her garage from time to time but time is limited also. I have things such as knock sensors, transfer case shift motor, broken exhaust manifold bolt, front brakes, rotors and shocks to install. Install remote start, the block heater power cord as I forgot to install it, shocks, adjust parking brakes on rear, swap coolant, flush brake lines, change front differential fluid, check front end over, get alignment and install new tires I have in storage before I get alignment done. Also need to do a fuel system cleaning.


If the motor went out today would I put a new or used in it? Definitely as I've owned it since new and always maintained it. Thinking about going thru the front end completely anyways as I've only replaced the front wheel bearings on both sides, shocks once, inner tie rod end once as well. I did for about 7 yrs use it to go camping so it towed all the time in summer. I forgot I also have to replace the 2 transmission cooler lines as they have a slow slow leak that gets messy over time.

All fluids were flushed @ 60kmiles as well.

Part of my issue is I always have school sports I'm going to, volunteer coaching during winter and summer basketball and fastpitch girls softball and I have friends and family who have me fix their stuff. Plus what mechanic doesn't always have something that needs fixed? LOL.....

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever get this worked out? Mike is doing the two start thing now too. This is after a new camera back in December. 
    • I’m doing an experiment on a vehicle I don’t have much money in. I’m going by the premise that after they last 100K miles they were no mechanical problems with assembly. Or defects with the parts. With oil changes by the minder for the first 127K miles when I acquired it. I quickly went through low mileage oil changes then settled on 5k oil changes with close to 170K miles on the vehicle currently. I did have the option to turn off the cylinder deactivation. I didn’t on this vehicle because it’s in ECONOMY mode at least half the time. It should be a no brainer frequent oil changes are the key. The manufacturer gets away with the long oil changes with its severe service  maintenance. Just ask them what is normal. 
    • Even set to "recirculated", the air pushes out and is hot. I have noticed that sometime it doesn't want to switch between recirculated/vented air. Say it is set to Circulated Air and I want to switch to Vented, when I click the Vented button, it just quickly lights up/clicks and immediatly switches back to Circulated. It's done this a few times now. So maybe it is an actuator getting stuck? But then, that doesn't explain the hot air when everything is off does it?
    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...