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By WHITE DIAMOND 12
New here just made an account to ask a few questions but I'll stick around for a little while. I have a 12 Silverado 5.3 LC9 114xxx miles. I had cylinder 7 throw a misfire code pulled plug and it was oil fouled. I'm getting the notorious litter noise. I don't know exactly how much oil it is consuming but I would guess at least 2 qts every 2-2500 miles. I guess my question is should I even worry about the lifters going out with that much oil lost and the cyl 7 plug fouling out? Or should I just save my money and put toward a new engine? I don't mind pulling the heads and putting lifters in but if it needs pistons anyway I guess I'm thinking what's the point.
Just bought a 2018 Silverado 6.2 a month ago. I noticed when I left the dealership they said they filled it, but it showed a little over 3/4 tank. I thought Oh well, they tried! But after driving awhile it seemed to go up to "F"
Then I've noticed slight movement of the needle during the last fill-up.
This time I filled it at 1/4 tank with 119 miles remaining, and it didn't change. Still stuck at 1/4 tank and 119 miles. I went to another gas station just to make sure I was actually full and I was. I guess I'll bring it in next week. Anyone else having this problem? Thanks.
By Chris Bassett
So fairly recently I noticed that my oil pressure is reading a bit low. I have topped off the oil, replaced the oil pressure switch and filter (located beneath the switch) to no success. It still reads around 20 psi idle (warm) and, after a bit of driving (ie. warmed up) it only reads about 25, maybe 30 psi tops, at around 1700-2000 RPM. Someone had mentioned it could be one of two things, since I dealt with the sensor already: oil relief valve could be stuck open, and/or the siphon tube on the intake side could have a broken/craked o-ring.
Since I've done the sensor and the filter below it, are these the next recommended things to check? There are no physical leaks. It does not appear to be burning oil (although it might, but is quite slow as I don't see any evidence from the tailpipe, even of cold starts in cold weather--at least none of the exhaust fumes look to be like smoke from oil burning). Even so, when the oil is full, it still reads low pressure even with the new sensor installed (so the old sensor was actually fine. and yes it was tested with a mechanical gauge before the sensor was done ).
The engine runs fine, no ticks or noises, just low pressure. Some people on other forums say that my oil pressures are normal, while I see the opposite, and some people are reporting 40 psi idle, and 50-60 psi while cruising, which is why I'm wondering about this. I have not gotten a warning light, and the gauge has never dropped to 0 or been pegged at 80 psi. When it starts cold, it is around 35-40 psi and then drops off as the truck warms up. I did take it to the dealer, they said it needs a new pump (now, it occured to me later that perhaps what they meant to tell me is that the relief valve might be stuck open but just replace the whole pump). All they said was "you need a new oil pump" which I'm sure that they are glad to say because it's an 8 hour job, and at dealer shop rates, that adds up quick (I got an estimate from them and the local independent shop which I've used before for stuff. Dealer said $1500 installed plus tax (so maybe $1700 in the end?) Independent shop said $1000 plus tax, so if it does need replacing, I'll probably just go to the local shop as I trust them (as they fixed trans problems on some of our other company vehicles to our satisfaction).
Am i correct in looking at the o-ring and relief valve. I know that if the relief valve is bad, I need to just replace the pump, but I'm also tempted to say if they drop the pan and check the o-ring, they might as well just replace the pump, as the pump itself isn't expensive. Doing the labor is. Like I said, the truck runs fine, doesn't make any unusual noises (I do get piston slap in the morning which I mistakenly thought maybe was a stuck lifter, but that quickly goes away after it warms up, and is apparently a "problem" with these engines). I should also mention I checked the trans fluid and the coolant to see if possibly oil was getting mixed in, but it isn't. Those fluids are clean and look normal. No overheating either, or strange noises from the engine.
I have read other people’s issues with their truck using excessive oil. However, mine is the 4.3 V6, everybody else’s seemed to be the 5.3 V8.
To bring everyone up to speed; as stated its the 4.3 V6 2wd, I had the oil changes included up to 24,000 miles. I was taking it in every 5,000 miles so the last change the dealership did was at 20k so as I was approaching the 25,000 mile mark my oil light came on. I went ahead and did my oil change a little early, it was somewhere between 24k and 25k and measured it was 2 quarts low! I thought those idiots didn’t top me off correctly at 20k! However, after the 20k oil change I had it in my head I was done taking it to the dealer and I could go ahead and do a couple things. I installed a cold air induction air box, which I love the growl I get, and I did a cat back exhaust from MRBP, which sucks, it’s horrendous, I replaced the MRBP flow through “muffler” with a Dynamax Turbo muffler and it helped considerably. So I am wondering if one of these items is the culprit? I kinda doubt it.
As I approach the next 5k miles which would be 30k miles on the truck the oil light comes on again!! I know I had put the proper amount of oil in at my last oil change so I’m becoming more concerned. I change my oil measure and 2 qts low again. I research and find out others are having issues but with their 5.3’s.
Friday, February 2nd, I’m heading to work, I’m at 33k miles and the oil light comes on!!!! So 3,000 miles in and I’v lost 2 qts???? Sure enough.
I call the dealer to see what they would have to say and I’m told losing a quart every 1,200-1,500 miles is acceptable per policy!! I read on here somebody else was told 1 quart per 2,000 miles was ok. Are they lowering their standards even more??? Good grief.
My truck has the 36,000 mile bumper to bumper and 100,000 mile power train warranties.
So I’m putting my stock air box back on and my stock exhaust and taking it to the dealer so they can start doing their oil consumption testing I guess.
What I’m looking for on here is a little advice. Do I also call Cheverolet customer service and cover my bases with them? Google gave me the number 800-222-1020, also 866-694-6546 for technical support anybody have a different number? A direct line to somebody maybe?
Should I send some oil off to Blackstone and have it tested as well?
I don’t have any visible leaks.
I use Valvoline SYNpower full synthetic 5W-30
Mobil 1 extended performance oil filters and replace them at 5k.
Thanks for your time and advice.
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