Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yup, that's how I do it on the ground. Pretty straight forward doing it that way, impact gun makes it a breeze.

  • Like 1
Posted
Yup, that's how I do it on the ground. Pretty straight forward doing it that way, impact gun makes it a breeze.

Perfect, appreciate the quick reply!

 

Any of you guys measure angles before and after? My truck is actually completely stock but they just arbitrarily put a shim in there from the factory which is causing some driveline rumbling on decel. I checked all of the angles today and turns out the shim actually throws the rear working angle out of wack.

 

These are the numbers I’m working with:

 

Trans - 5.45* down

 

Shaft - 5.2* down

 

Rear end - 1.56* down

 

So technically speaking mine should be close to spec without the shim completely, or with it spun. Probably easier to just spin it than having to take the centering pin out of the pack completely.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, hotrodz37 said:

Do you guys have any tips for spinning the shim, or any advice on the best way to do it?

From the looks of it you have to jack up the truck, put jack stands on the frame rails, jack up the rear end, unbolt the u-bolts, let the diff come down on the jack a little to separate from the leaf pack, loosen the centering pin and spin the shim and put it back together?

Am I missing anything or am I making this too complicated?

Thanks in advance for any help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use c clamps to hold the leaf pack together. I also had to use some ratchet straps to pull the axle to get the center pins back in their locating holes. Chock the front wheels and set the ebrake to try and minimize how much things shift around. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone spun the shims on a Denali?

I got mine apart this morning, did the pass side and then got to the driver side and there’s this fun bracket for the magnaride. Pretty much makes it impossible to spin the shim without pulling the centering pin out.

I might try and tackle it again tomorrow but dropping the axel low enough below the leaf pack to pull the centering bolt out makes me a little nervous to say the least.

697a687fcc88f2adb04f8da75e1970f9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I just installed the Rough country rear drop shackles on my 2020 Sierra AT4.
I usually do this because i am 6’ 1” and when sitting on the seat with my infant behind me, i had the seat reclined all up on the car seat. So, when leveled, the seating position is more relaxed and upright in my opinion. 

I figured i would show it since it was really hard deciding if i should do it since i couldn't find any AT4 with it done. I have it set to the 1.5 hole.

The shackle kit from Rough Country comes with a 1” and 1.5” hole. 
I have had it like this for 3 months now and i still dont have any vibration coming from the rear. 
I haven't measured it but it looks alot better. The rear sits like 1/2 to 3/4 higher than the front. Which is nice. 
The very top is before the kit was installed, the bottom 2 are after the install. 

 

7E5D3ED3-D676-4747-A959-EBA90BF12A49.jpeg

BBBDDA2D-FE5B-4CAF-8EAF-A4E5CA0FD6F3.jpeg

276C6A14-73C8-4163-ABCF-361559F66563.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted

I just installed RC 1.5” drop shackles on my 2020 RST double cab (4x4) over the weekend, no factory shims on the truck. Those of you that have the “slight” vibration around 30 mph, what are we talking with slight? I feel like a may feel something, but I’m also overly OCD and might be conjuring up a phantom vibration because I’m so worried about it. In other words, the guys that have had vibes, do you really have to pay attention to feel it or is it pretty darn noticeable?

 

First shackles I’ve ever installed, I usually level the front so I’m new to the “dropped” setup. 

Posted

The rear sits so high so that when carrying a full payload it is near level. That is about 3.5". Driveline angles should not need adjustment with up to a 4" drop. So, I'm at a loss as to the source of this vibration everyone believes is coming from a 2" drop. Well within the 'normal' load height and drive line angles. My K2 is lowered the full four without a pinion angle adjustment and smooth as silk. Can the T1 be that fussy and if so how does it handle a payload stock? I'm scratching my head on this one.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The rear sits so high so that when carrying a full payload it is near level. That is about 3.5". Driveline angles should not need adjustment with up to a 4" drop. So, I'm at a loss as to the source of this vibration everyone believes is coming from a 2" drop. Well within the 'normal' load height and drive line angles. My K2 is lowered the full four without a pinion angle adjustment and smooth as silk. Can the T1 be that fussy and if so how does it handle a payload stock? I'm scratching my head on this one.  

How did you achieve your 4" drop? If you did a flip kit or shackles with hangers then it wouldn't have changed the pinion angle like only shackles do. By installing shackles only, it rotates the leaf springs and differential backwards to drop the 1.5"-2", therefore changing the pinion angle. I found a photo on another site that explains the situation well, see below. I'm still really curious how others feel the "slight" vibration around 30 mph and how severe it is. I'm getting ready to take the truck on a 500 mile round trip this weekend and I'll pull the shackles if I'm actually vibrating, it's just so faint I'm not sure if I really am or not. I don't want to wipe out u-joints on the trip. I ordered several degrees of shims from Belltech yesterday, but they won't be here in time.

yWEaM.jpg

Edited by dirtfan21
Posted
3 hours ago, dirtfan21 said:

How did you achieve your 4" drop? If you did a flip kit or shackles with hangers then it wouldn't have changed the pinion angle like only shackles do. By installing shackles only, it rotates the leaf springs and differential backwards to drop the 1.5"-2", therefore changing the pinion angle. I found a photo on another site that explains the situation well, see below. I'm still really curious how others feel the "slight" vibration around 30 mph and how severe it is. I'm getting ready to take the truck on a 500 mile round trip this weekend and I'll pull the shackles if I'm actually vibrating, it's just so faint I'm not sure if I really am or not. I don't want to wipe out u-joints on the trip. I ordered several degrees of shims from Belltech yesterday, but they won't be here in time.

 

I removed the 1.25" spacer and had Deaver make me a set of 11-1/2 leaf springs with 15% less load that were arched to sit 2.75" lower under the existing back half weight while utilizing Sulastic insulative hangers. This still changes the relative heights of both pinion and transmission tail shaft yokes and their angle of address to each other. I summit that dropping 2,000 pounds in the box will have the same effect on pinion angle the shackle method does without that load.   

 

Yes it does but still well within the optimal range. 

Posted

Drove the truck again last night. No vibration on hard acceleration from a stop or while rolling. No vibration at constant highway speeds, 60-80 mph. Only slight vibration, and I mean slight, is at 25-30 mph and it doesn't matter if I'm decelerating or holding constant speed. I have a couple sets of Belltech shims on order and will install when received, problem is they won't be here in time before my 500 mile trip this weekend. I would highly doubt I'll wipe out u-joints or cause damage within 500 miles. Any input would be appreciated. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

For those of you that have a 2020 Denali (without factory shim), how are you getting the drivers side leaf spring bolt to line up with the hole in the axle? I just put in shims and because of the adaptive ride plate and shims, the bolt that is suppose to line up the leafs and axle is too short. This worries me because it this can cause the axle to shift while driving. This has also caused my steering wheel to be misaligned. 

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

For the trucks with no shim, which one do you end up getting 2 degrees? or 4 degrees? I have no shim but a new vibration.

 

I did not notice the vibration at first, its not super sever just a shutter at 30 mph. It is most noticeable under easy acceleration or deceleration.  If you accelerated to 30 mph and stay at the speed you are able to notice it. Or decelerate to 30 and stay at that speed.

 

 

Edited by passat774
Posted
1 hour ago, passat774 said:

For the trucks with no shim, which one do you end up getting 2 degrees? or 4 degrees? I have no shim but a new vibration.

 

I did not notice the vibration at first, its not super sever just a shutter at 30 mph. It is most noticeable under easy acceleration or deceleration.  If you accelerated to 30 mph and stay at the speed you are able to notice it. Or decelerate to 30 and stay at that speed.

 

 

 

I dropped mine by removing the riser and a new spring pack from Deaver resulting in about 4" total drop. It required no shim to maintain pinion angle within range. That was like 120K miles ago. 

Posted
19 hours ago, passat774 said:

For the trucks with no shim, which one do you end up getting 2 degrees? or 4 degrees? I have no shim but a new vibration.

 

I did not notice the vibration at first, its not super sever just a shutter at 30 mph. It is most noticeable under easy acceleration or deceleration.  If you accelerated to 30 mph and stay at the speed you are able to notice it. Or decelerate to 30 and stay at that speed.

 

 

On the 2020 elevation i had, i used a 2* shim at the initial install and had no vibration at any speed. It was 2WD and the 3.0 Duramax.


I traded it in for a 21 RST 6.2 4WD and used the same beltech shakles on it with no shims and no vibration at any speed.

Posted

Thanks was only lowered 1" initially but went down another 1"  total of the normal 2" 

 

It will be interesting to see if anything changes this week, will install 2* shims next weekend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You have to have the last word. 
    • I am sure that was quite the pass experience and not a great place to experience during the winter when the conditions are not good. I've seen video of that pass and also more detailed information and pictures about the wrecks at that one hair pin turn where tractor trailers have flown right off the cliff and I am sure from all the warning signs that you know the exact curve that was !. After all there is a reason why a song was made about Wolf Creek Pass !. By the way and I didn't realize this either when I bought my truck as its nothing I even thought of that would be programmed into the cruise control and this occurs in either the basic or the more advanced cruise that controls your distance behind a vehicle and that is the brakes going down a hill are being applied as soon as the vehicle goes a certain speed over the set cruise speed. While it certainly does force downshifts in the transmission as you found out with cruise on while going down hill, its also dragging the brakes as needed to keep the speed controlled to what the cruise was set to. For me, I find that unsettling simply because I have no concept then as to how MUCH brake input is being used a and just how hot are those brakes getting and the wear factor as well. I can see that system getting a person into trouble on long mountain grades while pulling a trailer as it would not only be standing on the brakes of the pickup without any driver input, it would also be automatically applying the trailer brakes and it could cause a run away unit by overheating the brakes. Its one thing on a shorter hill and if the driver allows it to do its thing but on a long mountain grade is where things could get so out of hand. As someone a while back on this forum said, they had someone following them at night I believe on a down grade and had the cruise set and the person behind them could see the brake lights being energized all the way down the hill. I figured when I saw your comment that you didn't know and would have no way of knowing that your truck was applying the brakes and that you would and rightfully so assume you only used the brakes when you pressed on the pedal to slow down more than the cruise set speed for the slower sharp curves. So its good knowledge to know this about the newer GM trucks, certainly when doing any descending on long mountain grades. In the future try kicking off the cruise and use the the manual mode on a pass to see what that is like as I know myself when I first experienced it I thought no way can this engine be holding me back this well and tried the same hill in manual mode and sure enough the engine was revving way up and still could not hold the trucks speed down like it could in cruise mode.    Fuel mileage, that is where a really low sleek type of car can do better at higher speeds, certainly it starts sucking fuel too but a tall pickup is pushing massive amounts of air and also allowing a lot more air under it and the tow mirrors as in elephant ears pushing through the wind  as well. Driving like grandpa is about as good as one can do when driving one of these if trying to get the best fuel economy they can. I bet these trucks would get the best mileage they can if driven on a freeway in Florida if not busy traffic at a sedate speed and that sea level elevation without hills, vastly different then Colorado !. 
    • It’s over for almost 24 hours. Are you playing Eddie Haskell? 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...