Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 hours ago, FDHog said:

Manufacturer should've made it a toggle switch.

Well that's the trick isn't it? Was a momentary switch instead of a toggle placed there on purpose and if so why, to meet technicalities of CAFE requirements or simply because GM wanted to break customers' ba!!s....?

 

S/s is so intrusive onto the guts of the vehicle, it may have been done on purpose to trigger a diagnostic or flexing phase of system components normally flexed on startup to prevent damage from long term disuse. It's not just the hd starter and split solenoid, not just the pressure maintenance systems in the tranny, but other crazy kludges to keep the vehicle in operation/readiness during a stop cycle like the aux. electrical vacuum pump for brake booster, aux electric circulator pump for the coolant, high energy electrical capacitors, DC-DC inverter for maintaining constant voltage to accessories, servos for maintaining oil pressure on the lifters, etc., etc. when engine is in a stop cycle.

 

Absent a written assurance from any gizmo maker that they will make good for paying the cost for repair of any damage attributed by a GM dealer to the gizmo as grounds for invalidating the warranty (whether or not a valid claim). I'll pass on this and give the s/s button the finger when I feel like it.

Posted
Well that's the trick isn't it? Was a momentary switch instead of a toggle placed there on purpose and if so why, to meet technicalities of CAFE requirements or simply because GM wanted to break customers' ba!!s....?
 
S/s is so intrusive onto the guts of the vehicle, it may have been done on purpose to trigger a diagnostic or flexing phase of system components normally flexed on startup to prevent damage from long term disuse. It's not just the hd starter and split solenoid, not just the pressure maintenance systems in the tranny, but other crazy kludges to keep the vehicle in operation/readiness during a stop cycle like the aux. electrical vacuum pump for brake booster, aux electric circulator pump for the coolant, high energy electrical capacitors, DC-DC inverter for maintaining constant voltage to accessories, servos for maintaining oil pressure on the lifters, etc., etc. when engine is in a stop cycle.
 
Absent a written assurance from any gizmo maker that they will make good for paying the cost for repair of any damage attributed by a GM dealer to the gizmo as grounds for invalidating the warranty (whether or not a valid claim). I'll pass on this and give the s/s button the finger when I feel like it.

I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
22 minutes ago, KARNUT said:


I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not everyone lives in Texas. I'm not running my A/C in January in the Northeast.

You guys do what you want. It's just a switch. 

Posted
Not everyone lives in Texas. I'm not running my A/C in January in the Northeast.
You guys do what you want. It's just a switch. 

That was the question [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 7/29/2019 at 8:48 AM, KARNUT said:


I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.

 

Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

Posted
Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.
 
Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

That’s even better. Before a tune on my 14, that’s what I did to keep the cylinder deactivation off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Thomcat said:

Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.

 

Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

Stupid question but you don't have to use automatic HVAC, do you? I absolutely hate that "feature" in my car. 

Edited by Cpl_Punishment
Posted

I see Range has released their AS eliminator, it sure would be nicer to just unplug if your truck goes in for service.

Tom

Posted

Selling my new unused Autostop eliminator   shipped for $70  PM me,  paypal only...

Posted
On 7/31/2019 at 10:34 AM, Cpl_Punishment said:

Stupid question but you don't have to use automatic HVAC, do you? I absolutely hate that "feature" in my car. 

Didn't buy a blown out RST so I could play with a manual HVAC, mine works just fine - besides keeps the wife off my a$$ - she can keep her vents blowing warmer while I go Eskimo.

Posted
1 hour ago, Thomcat said:

Didn't buy a blown out RST so I could play with a manual HVAC, mine works just fine - besides keeps the wife off my a$$ - she can keep her vents blowing warmer while I go Eskimo.

Maybe it's a problem with my car but no matter which vents I have blowing, it will switch to the floor vents when I accidentally hit the auto button. I want my face cold, not my feet. 

 

I assume you can still have two zones going even with manual air conditioning. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

Maybe it's a problem with my car but no matter which vents I have blowing, it will switch to the floor vents when I accidentally hit the auto button. I want my face cold, not my feet. 

 

I assume you can still have two zones going even with manual air conditioning. 

Just doesn't sound normal. On AUTO when calling for A/C with the cabin temp higher 80% of flow comes from the upper vents with 20% on the floor; when on Heat and cabin temperature lower 70% floor, 20% upper vents and 10% defroster vents; when set A/C or Heat is at cabin temperature the fan slows to a crawl at from all vents. One or more vents will work in Manual depending upon which button(s) are pushed. Three zone Traverse and Two zone Malibu automatic HVACs work the same way.

 

You may still have two zones on Manual but they are both pushing air at the same velocity, AUTO bleeds air from multiple doors depending upon zone.. When set temps differ and passenger temp, e.g.70 deg cabin is satisfied, passenger air flow settles to a crawl while drivers set to 60 deg continues to blow at full force out of driver's vents.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 6/15/2019 at 11:44 AM, Jessica Lambert said:

Thanks! Here is a link that contains printable instructions AND an installation video. https://www.autostopeliminator.com/installation-19-gm-silverado-sierra.html  It took under 13 minutes when we did it for the video. We show every step.

 

Various customers have told us it took them anywhere between 15 minutes to an hour when doing it themselves. On average, we hear 25-30 minutes from most people watching the video as they install the product. Some customers have left relevant information in their product reviews here: https://www.autostopeliminator.com/store/p12/silverado-sierra-ae004.html

 

Please check it out and let us know if you have any questions. You can also email us at [email protected] or contact us through our contact page on the website.

Jessica, your instructions that are posted dont account for those with the Bose system which has the subwoofer in the center console. Do you have instructions for those yet?

Posted
4 hours ago, rosepaule said:

Jessica, your instructions that are posted dont account for those with the Bose system which has the subwoofer in the center console. Do you have instructions for those yet?

I have the Bose. The instructions worked just fine. 

I love my ASE. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Limelight said:

I have the Bose. The instructions worked just fine. 

I love my ASE. 

Yup.  I got it with the help of Travis Lambert. I had to go hulk smash on the center console, that thing that really clipped in there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...