Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, GN2018 said:

Wow,  now I feel like a fool.  My dealer told me four months.  I could have paid cash but I got the $1500 incentive to finance.  I’m right now at four months.  Wish I would have asked about this or seen this thread sooner.

 

For those of you looking at your financing paperwork, I think you’re looking in the wrong place.  The language would be in paperwork associated with the incentive.  This is where I really feel foolish.  I just took the word of the dealers finance guy.  I should have asked to see the four months in writing.  Lesson learned.  Find it, or ask, to see their claim that you have to wait in writing.

 

Live and learn. Your most valuable lesson, assuming you grasped it, is that anyone at a car dealer cannot be relied upon for so much as the time of day.

 

PS ----- How much of that $1500 incentive vanished in those four months?

Edited by duquephart
  • Like 1
Posted

My salesman told me that, "Just make a one month payment and then pay it off." That dealership in San Diego was really honest and upfront with everything. We couldn't agree on the price of my trade-in so they suggested CarMax and I got more from CarMax.

The salesman also said there's no prepayment penalty at all.

That's in California. I believe it's the law.

Posted
8 hours ago, duquephart said:

 

Live and learn. Your most valuable lesson, assuming you grasped it, is that anyone at a car dealer cannot be relied upon for so much as the time of day.

 

PS ----- How much of that $1500 incentive vanished in those four months?

PS - About half.  Still worth it, but could have had it all. Yes, live and learn. That lesson hurt a bit though.  

Posted
10 hours ago, Daverado said:

 

If you plan to refinance elsewhere, then you should subtract the interest cost from the alternative bank to find out the "extra" cost of GM financing over that 6 months.

 

If you planned to pay cash but finance just to get that incentive then your math is solid.

 

Absolutely. Also, my dealer was totally transparent about the fact that I could pay it off right away, but that it would screw them out of their rebate, and they were really good otherwise too, so I’m going to work with them. But since I was considering paying cash, I’m just going to make a big payment ASAP and knock out almost all of the loan, leaving the few payments they said they need (6, they said). It won’t cost much at all in interest that way and they said as long as the loan exists in any form for that length of time, they get their kickback and everyone’s happy. I’m not sure there’s a similar way to work if you’re planning to refi, but for a cash deal this should work pretty well for all.

Posted

Yeah, that’s what I should have done.  Made four large payments or even most of it on the first payment so I wouldn’t have paid as much interest.  

Posted

Nearly always it is better to check with the local banks and see who is promoting auto loans and then negotiate a cash price with the dealer. The bank can pre-approve a dollar amount and then cut you the check for the dealer in a day's time.

 

Dealers get a kick back on any financing (or extended warranty) they sell customers. But sometimes a manufacturer will provide very low financing or even zero interest if they have two many days inventory already produced and sitting on the lots.

 

 

Posted

I would not do it that way because sometimes Chevrolet offers a $1,000 cash rebate if you finance through them.. then a month later, go back to your credit union or pay it off in cash.

Posted
8 hours ago, Wintersun said:

Nearly always it is better to check with the local banks and see who is promoting auto loans and then negotiate a cash price with the dealer. The bank can pre-approve a dollar amount and then cut you the check for the dealer in a day's time.

 

Dealers get a kick back on any financing (or extended warranty) they sell customers. But sometimes a manufacturer will provide very low financing or even zero interest if they have two many days inventory already produced and sitting on the lots.

 

 

 

You never want to "negotiate a cash price with the dealer." All deals are cash deals to the dealer and playing that card is stupid. You are likely to get your best deal if he thinks he is going to cash in on a financing spiff as well as everything else.

Posted (edited)

Bought my trail boss today.  Used GMF. Specifically asked the finance guy about this topic for the thread’s sake.  Guy laughed and said, “Makes no difference to us.  Get the registration and refi the thing right away.  It’ll save you some money.”

 

End of story.   

Edited by Jackwards
Posted

You never want to "negotiate a cash price with the dealer." All deals are cash deals to the dealer and playing that card is stupid. You are likely to get your best deal if he thinks he is going to cash in on a financing spiff as well as everything else.

True IMO.

When I bought my used truck they brought up financing. I told them a later discussion.

Negotiated a price, then told them cash deal. They were not happy.

 

I was told by friends that were car salesmen to never bring up trade ins or cash buys.

Negotiate the cost of the purchased vehicle, then the trade value. This stops them from playing with the numbers.

You have to remember they are trained at this and do it every day to maximize profit.

 

:)

Posted
47 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

You never want to "negotiate a cash price with the dealer." All deals are cash deals to the dealer and playing that card is stupid. You are likely to get your best deal if he thinks he is going to cash in on a financing spiff as well as everything else.

True IMO.

When I bought my used truck they brought up financing. I told them a later discussion.

Negotiated a price, then told them cash deal. They were not happy.

 

I was told by friends that were car salesmen to never bring up trade ins or cash buys.

Negotiate the cost of the purchased vehicle, then the trade value. This stops them from playing with the numbers.

You have to remember they are trained at this and do it every day to maximize profit.

 

:)

 

It is amazing that this needs to be brought up time after time on boards as sophisticated as this. The first, foremost, cardinal, etc. rule in price negotiations at a car dealer is to keep all transactions separate. The phrase "we'll talk about step two (three, four, etc.) after we complete step one" is your best friend. Within fifteen minutes of arriving at a dealership the salesman knows way too much about the typical dope: what he wants, what he is trading, what his ideal payment is, his time frame, etc. Don't be that guy. This is called "qualifying" and is standard procedure ----- they are way better at selling than you are at buying so you need to eliminate as much of their advantage as possible.

  • Like 2
Posted

When does the first paperwork arrive with your account number? I purchased two weeks ago and GMF just showed up on my bureaus today. I haven't received anything from them in the mail yet.

Posted
1 hour ago, UGADawgs said:

When does the first paperwork arrive with your account number? I purchased two weeks ago and GMF just showed up on my bureaus today. I haven't received anything from them in the mail yet.

If you call the customer service number on the GMF website the automated system gives the option to look up your account by SSN or account number. I tried my SSN but nothing yet. Spoke with a rep and she said give it 2-2.5 weeks. So yours might be up by now.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine came within 2 weeks. Will make the first payment in a couple weeks from now then pay it off.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, relevante said:

If you call the customer service number on the GMF website the automated system gives the option to look up your account by SSN or account number. I tried my SSN but nothing yet. Spoke with a rep and she said give it 2-2.5 weeks. So yours might be up by now.

I called them and used last four of SSN and got account #, etc. Thanks!

 

10day payoff balance is already $260 higher from interest in just two weeks. Crazy! 

Edited by UGADawgs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...