Jump to content

sub install

Rfordhamjr
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rfordhamjr Enthusiast

Rfordhamjr

Posted
Posted

Hay everyone,

 

Just got a 19 Chevy 1500. Im looking to add a small sub-woofer. I need to find out the color coding on the wiring harness for the back left speaker.  

My amp has a high level input and I want to tap in in an easy spot. This picture is from right be the power seat adjustment control.  

 

does anyone have any subjection where I might find a wire diagram. Been looking but no luck finding it. May just be to new to have that info out in the wild.... 

 

IMG_20190601_131307.jpg

MasterBasher New Member

MasterBasher

Posted
Posted

Disclaimer: I have NOT verified this.

 

I found the following in the Electrical manual I found at GM-Uplifter

 

{Images moved to bottom so as not to bury the text}

 

Looks like GN/BK (-) and GN (+) are the two you need for the Left Rear Speaker outputs.

 

MM |   color   | Circuit | Description

0.5   | GN/BK |    116   | Left Rear Speaker Signal (-)

0.5   |     GN    |    199   | Left Rear Speaker Control (+)

 

0.5mm = 24awg

1.5mm= 15awg (approx)

 

Based on my search in that document, and the location you are seeing it at, the larger gauge (1.5mm) BU/YE wire you are looking at _might_ be circuit 277-- Driver Power Seat Recline Motor Rearward Control
BU/YE is used throughout the vehicle for many things, none I could find had anything to do with Audio.

 

My suspicion is that due to the low wattage the head unit puts out, 24awg wire is all they used for the speakers. My opinion, not fact though...

 

1NWQCED.jpg

OAhKy0J.jpg

  • 1 year later...
sharkeysierra Enthusiast

sharkeysierra

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Jeff Cooley said:

Curious if anyone has gotten the adapter for a 2020 GMC Sierra.  Where is the amp located in the Bose Premium sound package.  

 

Thanks.

I believe the amp is under the center console. 

eppieguy Senior Enthusiast

eppieguy

Posted
Posted

I’m pretty sure the amp is behind the rear seat. 

Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
Posted

If you have the Bose system and are only trying to get the audio signal for a sub, you could just tap into the Bose sub's speaker wires below the center console instead of a door speaker signal. You don't have to remove the center console to access it and it was't too difficult to locate in my 2020. In addition, the signal has already been through a crossover so no highs are coming through.

Jeff Cooley Enthusiast

Jeff Cooley

Posted
Posted
If you have the Bose system and are only trying to get the audio signal for a sub, you could just tap into the Bose sub's speaker wires below the center console instead of a door speaker signal. You don't have to remove the center console to access it and it was't too difficult to locate in my 2020. In addition, the signal has already been through a crossover so no highs are coming through.
I just saw a post about this. Looks easy enough. I just want a sub added to my system that's it. I was told I'd have to disable the ANC? How do I go about doing that?

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  • 11 months later...
JIGGZZ New Member

JIGGZZ

Posted
Posted
On 7/27/2020 at 10:04 PM, Rook126 said:

If you have the Bose system and are only trying to get the audio signal for a sub, you could just tap into the Bose sub's speaker wires below the center console instead of a door speaker signal. You don't have to remove the center console to access it and it was't too difficult to locate in my 2020. In addition, the signal has already been through a crossover so no highs are coming through.

Can you give us more details on this?

  • 5 weeks later...
Rook126 Enthusiast

Rook126

Posted
Posted
On 7/5/2021 at 9:46 PM, JIGGZZ said:

Can you give us more details on this?

Sorry for the late response JIGGZZ. I haven't been checking my notification lately.

Here's an older post where I tapped into the Bose sub wires for my low frequency signal to my aftermarket amp.

 

  • 9 months later...
eppieguy Senior Enthusiast

eppieguy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, WILLIAM DWAYNE said:

What is a 2014 Corvette Premier?

GM produced 500 Premier Edition Laguna Blue 7 Speed 3LT Coupes with a special numbered dash plaque, special wheels and Brownstone Interior and 550 Premier Edition Lime Rock Green Automatic Convertibles as well. Nothing extremely special just loaded with as many options as they offered and just first year of the C7 and you couldn't order them, GM just shipped to certain dealers of their choice and then to be sold to customers. 

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...