Jump to content

Transmission Temps - how hot is too hot?


migizi

Recommended Posts

Posted

Grumpy Bear,

 

I'm going to ask if I can do that bypass during the replacement (and stock cooler omit) as long as it doesn't effect the warranty.

If they shay away from that, then its their dime, if it goes south. Heck, I see this replacement as a challenge to work that transmission now ?

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
On 7/26/2019 at 2:59 PM, migizi said:

Well the jury has convened and its bad news.

How many miles on the truck?  You said the fluid had 60K on it, but not total mileage and how many times the fluid had been changed.  Just curious to know.  I read that many 6L80s give up the ghost around 160K while others go on forever.

Posted
On 7/27/2019 at 2:21 PM, swathdiver said:

... and how many times the fluid had been changed...

Sorry swath diver, I didn't see this part of the question until now...

 

To answer that question, I purchased this Suburban with roughly 72k miles and had ALL the fluids serviced that same week (except wiper and blinker). I have not had the transmission fluid serviced since then. I cannot confirm, but I sincerely doubt the previous owner had the transmission fluid serviced in the first 70k.

 

Posted
On ‎7‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 4:10 AM, migizi said:

Grumpy Bear,

 

I'm going to ask if I can do that bypass during the replacement (and stock cooler omit) as long as it doesn't effect the warranty.

If they shay away from that, then its their dime, if it goes south. Heck, I see this replacement as a challenge to work that transmission now ?

Your not thinking of running no cooler are you? Bypass is as simple as flipping the 'pill' in the stock thermostat upside down. 

 

17 minutes ago, migizi said:

Sorry swath diver, I didn't see this part of the question until now...

 

To answer that question, I purchased this Suburban with roughly 72k miles and had ALL the fluids serviced that same week (except wiper and blinker). I have not had the transmission fluid serviced since then. I cannot confirm, but I sincerely doubt the previous owner had the transmission fluid serviced in the first 70k.

 

So....what did you learn from this experience? 

Posted

by cooler omit - I meant just using the add on cooler in front of the Engine Radiator and omiting the stock trans cooler 

 

what did I learn? I should have left it alone and drove it into the ground - it would have been cheeper. 

seriously though, the trans missed a service 30k ago,  (change, not flush)  and this one should have been a change and not flush as well.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I did the "flip the pill" mod a few weeks back and my temps dropped to about 146* average on a 90* day with the AC on. It is very simple to do and you can reverse it back if you want to but I bet you will love the low temps and wish you had done it sooner.

Posted

I know this is a transmission thread. The first thing I would have considered was the gear ratio. 342 is the sweet spot for pulling with the six speed. Some would say 373. Depending on how often you pull the camper you transmission life isn’t all that unusual. That also depends on where you pull.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I should have left it alone and drove it into the ground - it would have been cheeper. 

I'm not bashing you, trying to help from my experience.

Disagree with this thinking.

IMO

If you do your own maintenance to save money or if you paid to have it done  you might not be in this situation.

When you got it had trans filter done with fluid replaced. About $200 $225 I think at Jiffy lube.

Filter and fluid every 25 K miles. 

You would have had 3 services on this trans for lets say $700 if you had them done. I believe the trans would still be good.

 

I buy used vehicles only. I do regular transmissions services and mine last over 200 K miles.

:)

Posted
9 hours ago, migizi said:

Sorry swath diver, I didn't see this part of the question until now...

 

To answer that question, I purchased this Suburban with roughly 72k miles and had ALL the fluids serviced that same week (except wiper and blinker). I have not had the transmission fluid serviced since then. I cannot confirm, but I sincerely doubt the previous owner had the transmission fluid serviced in the first 70k.

 

 

Did they tell you EXACTLY what failed?  Saying the transmission is bad or the torque converter is bad is no different than saying the engine is bad and in need of total replacement when it might be just a particular component and not the whole thing.  

 

Forgive me if this has been stated, was the previous work done at a GM dealership?

Posted
3 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

 

Did they tell you EXACTLY what failed?  Saying the transmission is bad or the torque converter is bad is no different than saying the engine is bad and in need of total replacement when it might be just a particular component and not the whole thing.  

 

Forgive me if this has been stated, was the previous work done at a GM dealership?

All work has beeb done at a GM Dealership and as far as what failed, they said it was the torque converter.

 

5 hours ago, diyer2 said:

...If you do your own maintenance to save money or if you paid to have it done  you might not be in this situation...

huh?

 

5 hours ago, diyer2 said:

When you got it had trans filter done with fluid replaced. About $200 $225 I think at Jiffy lube.

Filter and fluid every 25 K miles. 

You would have had 3 services on this trans for lets say $700 if you had them done. I believe the trans would still be good.

 

I buy used vehicles only. I do regular transmissions services and mine last over 200 K miles.

:)

I know I should have had another service done in the middle there, but it dod not.  Im usually better about my maintenance scheduling. My Last Suburban had 285k miles when I traded it on and no trans issues, so I agree good maintenance helps.

 

BUT...

~~~Jiffy Lube???? - sorry, I almost threw up in my mouth~~~

 

7 hours ago, KARNUT said:

I know this is a transmission thread. The first thing I would have considered was the gear ratio. 342 is the sweet spot for pulling with the six speed. Some would say 373. Depending on how often you pull the camper you transmission life isn’t all that unusual. That also depends on where you pull.

Yes, we all agree that 3.08 is not the optimal choice for towing and there are better options, but frustrating as it may be, this is what I was dealt.

Posted
3 hours ago, migizi said:

...as far as what failed, they said it was the torque converter.

There are many parts to a torque converter.  I just curious as to exactly what failed and how that precipitated an entire transmission rebuild.  

 

I've had front pumps fail and just replaced parts in them to get back up and running.  Had clutches and sprags let go in torque converters and had them fixed and or replaced.  Had input clutch pistons go bang and replaced them too without replacing good parts with new parts before.  I've got a 4T65E with a busted forward apply band ($43) but no way to get the transmission out of the van as I'm too weak to do the work anymore.  Get the tranny on my work bench, that I can handle!  

 

Anyhow, I'm at 144K on my Yukon XL and have almost 950 hours and 27K miles since changing the transmission fluid.  What interval are you guys running, Grumpy?

Posted

Has anyone had a transmission failure in their 2015 silverado 1500 8 speed? I've had a lot of hard shifts from 1st to 2nd but today it broke... Big bump and then nothing...

Posted

While I understand your dislike of Jiffy Lube the person doing the work is the key not the company name.

I have done a lot of wrenching over the years without a mechanics education.

 

I mentioned Jiffy Lube because they are nation wide, prices aren't outrageous. 

:)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...