Jump to content

Black AT4 emblems

Dick Messerly
 Share

Recommended Posts

2000 Enthusiast

2000

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Libertas said:

84644535

84644536

 

They are separate part #'s for the Left and the Right.  In the parts catalog, they are listed as F Sleeve

Thank you. 

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dick Messerly
Dick Messerly

Got the new carbon flash black AT4 emblems! They are looking great!!! 

Dick Messerly
Dick Messerly

Also decided to plastidip the gmc emblem I don't get why they don't just make them like this it looks so much better! 

Dick Messerly
Dick Messerly

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you all! I'm actually a salesman at a gmc dealership so I've been putting in the hours for end of the month! The 2 part numbers are 84690478 and 84680479 AT4 em

Posted Images

Libertas Enthusiast

Libertas

Posted
Posted
On 2/29/2020 at 6:14 AM, 2000 said:

Thank you. 

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

bdup Enthusiast

bdup

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Libertas said:

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

 

Installed my black tips tonight.  It was definitely a struggle getting the first one done, it’s really tight under there. 

 

For me a 10mm ratcheting wrench was key to the removal and reinstall. First remove the top bolt with a 10mm ratchet & extension. Once the top bolt is out, you can pull down on the tip and this will allow more access to the left & right bolts. Remove the inside bolt first and outside bolt second with a 10mm ratcheting wrench. Repeat in reverse order when installing new tips. Don’t fully tighten the left or right bolt until you’ve got both bolts started.

Bjeremi Enthusiast

Bjeremi

Posted
Posted

Ordered mine today.  Thanks for the part numbers guys!

 

 Still want to do something with the GMC logos as well.  Going to go with Bronze Fuel wheels so think I am just going to get rid of as much of the chrome as possible.  

  • 4 months later...
Patrick Barrett New Member

Patrick Barrett

Posted
Posted
On 2/3/2020 at 12:43 AM, Dick Messerly said:

84690478 is the bigger door one 84690479 is the smaller tailgate one. 

Anyone else getting the description as "F Plate" for the door badge? Tailgate one is full description, but door one basically says nothing.

  • 2 weeks later...
2020AT4 Enthusiast

2020AT4

Posted
Posted

Looks sweet on the gray color truck. I went with black for body color, probably wouldn't look at good on mine; wouldn't even be able to see them.

jsarratt New Member

jsarratt

Posted
Posted
On 1/29/2020 at 9:56 PM, Dick Messerly said:

Also decided to plastidip the gmc emblem I don't get why they don't just make them like this it looks so much better! 

IMG_20200129_225607_235.jpg

did you take it off to do it 

  • 3 months later...
cboveda New Member

cboveda

Posted
Posted
On 1/30/2020 at 12:49 AM, Dick Messerly said:

Got the new carbon flash black AT4 emblems! They are looking great!!! 

20200128_160340.jpg

20200128_160332.jpg

Any “how to’s” to line up the replacement emblem?

polarys425 Enthusiast

polarys425

Posted
Posted
On 3/2/2020 at 11:38 PM, Libertas said:

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

Small air ratchet.... it'll slide right in there.

  • 2 months later...
Musgo Enthusiast

Musgo

Posted
Posted

Those badges look awesome!!!!!   I plasti dipped my 2014 Denali badges black.   The only issue I had was the front would chip and flake from rock strikes.  So I would touch it up every couple months.  Anyone have suggestions on making the front panted emblems more durable?

  • 4 weeks later...
Rgpie75 Enthusiast

Rgpie75

Posted
Posted
I ordered some decal overlays and did mine. 
 
09DDFE58-510B-4D04-9AED-7617E890B562.thumb.jpeg.be582ab312465a3901598e46c724d93d.jpeg

How hard were these to line up when installing? Not a bad option for $20 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kpromero Enthusiast

kpromero

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Rgpie75 said:


How hard were these to line up when installing? Not a bad option for $20 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am no expert and found them to be not too bad to apply. They fit just inside the chrome layer and I used a blow dryer to heat up and a credit card to tuck the edges 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      2026 Silv. 1500 WT reg cab: how many speakers do I have? Is amp module separate?

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a 2026 base 1500 "WT" regular cab. How many speakers do I have If I want to upgrade? Is the audio amp separate from the radio/display unit? [I listen to classical and it gets a bit raspy at slightly higher volumes.  Don't need a sub etc.] Do I have two or 1 speakers in the doors? Thanks Bill  San Jose
    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...