Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, Libertas said:

84644535

84644536

 

They are separate part #'s for the Left and the Right.  In the parts catalog, they are listed as F Sleeve

Thank you. 

Posted
On 2/29/2020 at 6:14 AM, 2000 said:

Thank you. 

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

Posted
1 hour ago, Libertas said:

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

 

Installed my black tips tonight.  It was definitely a struggle getting the first one done, it’s really tight under there. 

 

For me a 10mm ratcheting wrench was key to the removal and reinstall. First remove the top bolt with a 10mm ratchet & extension. Once the top bolt is out, you can pull down on the tip and this will allow more access to the left & right bolts. Remove the inside bolt first and outside bolt second with a 10mm ratcheting wrench. Repeat in reverse order when installing new tips. Don’t fully tighten the left or right bolt until you’ve got both bolts started.

Posted

Ordered mine today.  Thanks for the part numbers guys!

 

 Still want to do something with the GMC logos as well.  Going to go with Bronze Fuel wheels so think I am just going to get rid of as much of the chrome as possible.  

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 2/3/2020 at 12:43 AM, Dick Messerly said:

84690478 is the bigger door one 84690479 is the smaller tailgate one. 

Anyone else getting the description as "F Plate" for the door badge? Tailgate one is full description, but door one basically says nothing.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Looks sweet on the gray color truck. I went with black for body color, probably wouldn't look at good on mine; wouldn't even be able to see them.

Posted
On 1/29/2020 at 9:56 PM, Dick Messerly said:

Also decided to plastidip the gmc emblem I don't get why they don't just make them like this it looks so much better! 

IMG_20200129_225607_235.jpg

did you take it off to do it 

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 1/30/2020 at 12:49 AM, Dick Messerly said:

Got the new carbon flash black AT4 emblems! They are looking great!!! 

20200128_160340.jpg

20200128_160332.jpg

Any “how to’s” to line up the replacement emblem?

Posted
On 3/2/2020 at 11:38 PM, Libertas said:

You're welcome.  I just had an exhaust shop put on my Borla exhaust today, and requested they change out my exhaust tips.  Unfortunately, they said they couldn't get to the bolts to do it.  I am faaaaar from mechanically inclined, so now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.  Might have to check with the dealer to see how much they would soak me to install them. ?

Small air ratchet.... it'll slide right in there.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Those badges look awesome!!!!!   I plasti dipped my 2014 Denali badges black.   The only issue I had was the front would chip and flake from rock strikes.  So I would touch it up every couple months.  Anyone have suggestions on making the front panted emblems more durable?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
I ordered some decal overlays and did mine. 
 
09DDFE58-510B-4D04-9AED-7617E890B562.thumb.jpeg.be582ab312465a3901598e46c724d93d.jpeg

How hard were these to line up when installing? Not a bad option for $20 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
14 minutes ago, Rgpie75 said:


How hard were these to line up when installing? Not a bad option for $20 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am no expert and found them to be not too bad to apply. They fit just inside the chrome layer and I used a blow dryer to heat up and a credit card to tuck the edges 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...