Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Let it sit on a flat spot overnight and then check the engine oil level too. 

 

 

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 3/2/2020 at 5:45 PM, BlancoSilverado said:

Doesn't the 2017 have rack and pinion? so it wouldn't have a pitman arm,...ect?

 

Sorry i was wrong. for some reason i was thinking of the 1500s. thanks @newdude

Sorry if I didn't reply correctly 1st timer here !!!!

I just crawled under my 2020 and did my first  LOF at 4900 mi 

All I  found 8 fittings

they were all  bone dry 

Is there a drain for the fuel seperator 

 

 

 

Posted
18 hours ago, Dave mags said:

Sorry if I didn't reply correctly 1st timer here !!!!

I just crawled under my 2020 and did my first  LOF at 4900 mi 

All I  found 8 fittings

they were all  bone dry 

Is there a drain for the fuel seperator 

 

 

 

 

If you found 8, you are missing one.  Should be 9.  

  • (2) outer tie rod ends
  • (2) upper ball joints
  • (2) lower ball joints
  • (1) top of pitman arm at the center link side of the arm
  • (1) top of idler arm pivot bracket
  • (1) top of idler arm at the center link side of the arm

The fuel filter has a drain.  The center of the filter cap opens up.  The Duramax supplement manual shows it in there.  Its under the "Water in fuel" section.  

Posted (edited)

Thanks

I will crawl under and find it

I thought that is what I read about draining it but it sounded funky and I had concerns about getting air in there 

do you generally drain it  periodically ?? I usually did that on my old truck 

 

Edited by Dave mags
added a question
Posted

never would of found the 9th grease if it wasn't for this thread. took front skid plate off to reach . Thanks

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I changed oil on my 20 GMC at 2 months old and every grease fitting took minimum of 8 pumps from my pneumatic grease gun.   Dry as a bone from the factory (built 1/20)

Posted (edited)
On 3/4/2020 at 4:25 PM, davester said:

Some just swap the oil & filter (and sometimes even botch that), and some will also lube everything, check and top off if necessary all the other fluids, rotate tires, etc...

IF I let a dealer perform my oil change I would be certain to follow up.  The dealer who sold us our 12 impala brand new used the wrong oil filter on the car for the first few years.  They claimed they were not aware of a tsb that I showed them.  This was a pretty large lot for the area, should have been up to speed. 

 

Tempted to do my own service work, however there are things I am finding about this truck that have me questioning whether to have the truck checked periodically by the dealer.  Had no clue until I started looking for it, after reading a few posts here about low level, that there was no trans dipstick.  Brings the question as to how exactly do you add fluid when you change the fluid. 

 

Going to have to check the grease fittings, do you really have to drop a skid plate to get to one of them?

Edited by shadow gray 2020 hd
Posted

I just got done rotating tires, changing oil and greasing .i would say yes on removal of skid plate. Only four 15mm bolts . The 3 fittings on idler arms aren’t easy either. The dealer or quick change shop would never get to them 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, BB&Chiveon said:

i would say yes on removal of skid plate. Only four 15mm bolts . The 3 fittings on idler arms aren’t easy either. The dealer or quick change shop would never get to them

Sure with the skid plate needing removed that if they were to lube it they would charge extra for "book" labor rates. 

 

I took a peak at mine after washing it today, could see 6 fittings without crawling under it.  Will see if I can get the truck under the garage door tomorrow and crawl under it. Not sure I am gonna clear, think my door height is 7'2", by just eyeballing it, appears it is gonna be close.   

Posted

Would be curious why these are coming from the factory dry, or with minimal grease.  Is it a qc issue?  Took 6-8 pumps in all the fittings.  And yes the plastic skid plate is not an issue.  My truck was built on 8/20.

 

Was able to reach all of them with a standard pistol grip manual pump gun with a 12 inch hose.  I can see where a 36 inch would make the job much easier.

Posted

After reading these posts i crawled under my 2020 2500 HD. All nine grease points were pretty much dry. I was able to grease them all without removing the skid plate, using a grease gun with a one foot rubber hose, and straight coupler. My arms were covered in undercoating, trying to reach the zerks. I will grease it next time with a 90 degree coupler. I believe that will work much better.

Posted

I greased mine this morning and there was not enough clearance to get my fitting on it for both bottom ball joints. It is a lumax quick release so maybe the side wall is larger than a standard fitting. I’ll have to swap it and give another try.

 

No issues getting the the rest.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Someone forgot to assign someone to lube these things as they come off of the assembly line.  Very sucky.   I can understand leaving it slightly not completely lubed to prevent pressure bursting or whatever depending on altitude or things that might happen when loading/unloading from carriers.. but at the same time, I don't recall any of the dealers I worked at or went to checking chassis grease as part of the pre-delivery stuff.  I DID see them checking oil and other fluid levels though.  But unless a vehicle was receiving aftermarket gear being installed at the dealer, none of the vehicles went up on a lift when they came off the car carrier.  Worth sharing with your favorite service advisor/service manager, might help you earn some good credit with them since they can hopefully catch this going forward and making future customers happy and pass along this issue to GM Corporate. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...