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By Isaac Riffel
Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway.
If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video
1. Here are the tools you will need:
13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience
Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender.
(Remove your wheel(s) before this guide)
2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing.
3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove
4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like:
5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.)
6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension.
7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox.
8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out.
9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips.
10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side
11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis.
12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors.
13. Remove grill clip from fender
14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench
15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper)
17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck.
Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps!
If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
The rattle we had was coming from headliner behind the passenger seat, and was typically worse at medium to highway speeds. It is noticeably louder with the sunroof cover slid back(open). My fix: Open rear passenger door and stand on running board to access the roof rack. If you wiggle the crossbar of the rack it has the slightest of slack, but just enough to make a clanking sound. I wedged some thin flexible magnet pieces(no the rack isn't magnetic, just what I had handy) in between the crossbar and the roof brace in front of and back of the bar(see pic). Viola...no noise. If these come loose I will come up with something more robust(maybe some two part epoxy).
I'm not familiar with the inside of the 2015-2019 Suburban, Tahoe, and regular Yukon's, but the ultra quiet cabin of the Denali amplifies ANY little rattle or strange noise. I was used to the road noise and rattles of my 2007 Suburban(288K). They went kind of hand in hand. This one will take some getting used to. I know, suck it up buttercup.
Now...back to the "other" issue... front end clank, clank, clank-clank after medium to hard braking, but occasionally during acceleration, and less occasionally steady speeds. No specific rhythm, almost like it's swinging in the wind, and then it suddenly stops after a few seconds. Please help if you know anything! I WILL fix this too! There is a video from another in a different thread on here that has the EXACT same issue/sound as mine.
I am looking for some insight from other people that specialize in wiring and electrical. I own a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado Ext. Cab and I have recently installed an overhead console and wired it to a 10 amp circuit in the interior fuse panel using 16ga wire. Doing it this way, the LEDS are very bright, like I want them. Now I want to switch the wiring to the existing wiring from the BCM for OE functionality when I open the door or use the dimmer switch to turn them on. The original wiring is a GRY/BLK 20ga(?) wire that runs up the pillar on the driver side. When I tapped into this wire, the dome lights work like they should, but are very dim.
What should I do about this? I have considered running the oe wiring to activate a relay and running the 16ga I have installed through the same relay for power and ground to the dome lights. That way I get the brightness I like, and it retains OE functionality. Is this the way I should go or are there other options?
By Josh Dalrymple
So I posted last week about an issue I've been having for quite some time. I've recently got a big up my butt about getting it take care of, and was messing around with it and discovered something new that may help with the diagnosis.
When I push the voice activation button, the system says "ready" then beeps. At this point, if I say nothing it will tell me some of the commands I can say. however if after the beep I say anything, it doesn't respond at all, and after about 30 seconds will say "goodbye" and hang up on me. Now, if I press the OnStar button which uses the same microphone, the OnStar rep can hear me just fine, so I know its not the microphone.
I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
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