Jump to content

2014 Sierra 5.3L Intake Valve Deposits (100,000 miles)

jandrewf

By jandrewf
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

jandrewf New Member

jandrewf

Posted
Posted

Saw gone_fishing post pictures of his intake valves at 30,000 miles. Thought I would show some photos of my valve deposits at 100,000 miles without a catch can as I was curious myself. I was experiencing a pretty rough and intermittent idle a few months ago (shaking the truck kind of rough) and put a can of sea-foam through the intake. This worked for approximately 5000 miles but eventually returned. I took the intake manifold off to give things a look and as expected, intake valves (photos of only ports 1 and 2) aren't looking so hot. Planning on walnut blasting or manually cleaning when things warm up, still -25C (-13F) here in Alberta. 

 

 IMG_5098.thumb.JPG.9dc94e9ef729422a2e00a02ed76557d1.JPG

IMG_5099.JPG

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

That's not too bad to be honest, looks fairly good.

 

It hasn't been warm enough for me to take my intake off yet but I will be here in a few weeks when it warms up. I'll have over 104k miles on mine by then with no catch can. I run E85 on and off now so I wonder what mine will be like.

Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted

Definitely worth a walnut blast on this valves. 
 

Good thing about our intakes...only takes 20 minutes to remove...another hour or so blasting the valves and another 20 minutes on the install. Not bad considering it’s probably only necessary to do, every 100,000 miles or so.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Not seeing anything in those photo's that gives me pause. Sorry. I've seen worse in the 60's with carburetors. 

Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

I wonder what it would have looked like without the Seafoam treatment.  Was the recent treatment the only time any chemical cleaning was done?

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Not seeing anything in those photo's that gives me pause. Sorry. I've seen worse in the 60's with carburetors. 

I remember a low mileage 68 Impala my brother got for a first car in 1975. While I was changing the 2barrle intake to 4 we pulled the valve covers. Unbelievable gunk we cleaned as much as we could. Threw dual glass packs on it. Add teenage driver that engine cleaned up quick. That 307 power glide fast back became my car through horse trading my 74 barracuda and payments after I got married. That tank lasted passed 100K miles becoming the wife’s car after I started buying pickups for work. Ops I’m rambling again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2018GMC Senior Enthusiast

2018GMC

Posted
Posted

Honestly doesn’t look too bad for that mileage. Thanks for sharing ?

jandrewf New Member

jandrewf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hoping that the walnut blast/manual clean will improve the idle once completed - been chasing it for a long time!

23 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

I wonder what it would have looked like without the Seafoam treatment.  Was the recent treatment the only time any chemical cleaning was done?

Yeah just once! I was expecting it to be worse in all honesty - maybe this had something to do with it.
 

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
On 3/14/2020 at 12:43 PM, jandrewf said:

Saw gone_fishing post pictures of his intake valves at 30,000 miles. Thought I would show some photos of my valve deposits at 100,000 miles without a catch can as I was curious myself. I was experiencing a pretty rough and intermittent idle a few months ago (shaking the truck kind of rough) and put a can of sea-foam through the intake. This worked for approximately 5000 miles but eventually returned. I took the intake manifold off to give things a look and as expected, intake valves (photos of only ports 1 and 2) aren't looking so hot. Planning on walnut blasting or manually cleaning when things warm up, still -25C (-13F) here in Alberta. 

 

 IMG_5098.thumb.JPG.9dc94e9ef729422a2e00a02ed76557d1.JPG

IMG_5099.JPG

These should not cause truck shaking rough idle?  Put it into Park and see if it goes away?  You could have Crappy early model Hydraulic Engine mounts that can't mask the CRAPPY HOT IDLE MAPPING.....most likely your problem but not from these there valves.....Thanks for posting!

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

Are there any work around options for adjusting idle up a touch? I've got a an old Bully dog tuner which shut off the AFM but doesn't adjust idle as far as I can see.

Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Mozzer said:

Are there any work around options for adjusting idle up a touch? I've got a an old Bully dog tuner which shut off the AFM but doesn't adjust idle as far as I can see.

Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
 

Yes, you want to bump up the HOT IDLE MAPPING in DRIVE 100RPM'S  I did mine with HP tunner   I only went 50+ rpm's and it worked for mine but I should have just went 100 like the Tuning guy said too for best outcome.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...