Jump to content

Wiper blade replacement options?

dave_clt
 Share

Recommended Posts

dave_clt Enthusiast

dave_clt

Posted
Posted

I've searched past threads (linked below) to see what other owners have done when changing out the OEM blades, but didn't find anything recent so thought I'd start a thread to ask....

 

Don't drive my truck all that much (primarily and infrequently used to tow enclosed trailer) so the OEM blades have been fine unchanged since purchase in 2016.  Last time out, it rained and they started really chattering.  While I know I can polish the windshield for some improvement, the blades are likely due anyway after four years.

 

I've had good luck on other vehicles with Bosch and higher end Trico blades.  Very little snow here in NC, mainly rain when I use them.  Anybody got more recent experience on blades specific to our truck?

 

Searched threads

------------------------------

no-HD blade thread

 

 

wiper chatter 

 

Chebbyfan Enthusiast

Chebbyfan

Posted
Posted

I just put a pair of Bosch OE icon, I think is what they were, on my 15.  Not a perfect fit, but they are tight and didn't come off running full blast on a road trip we just took in a blinding rainstorm.  The passenger side fit well, but the tabs didn't fit the drivers side arm the same.  I may take them back and look for something different.

  • Thanks 1
Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

Bosch 22 OE Icons work very good and last "long time"

even when they are over 1 year old they work great after a few minutes to warm up +- get flexible

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
pacokarp Enthusiast

pacokarp

Posted
Posted

I did Bosch ICON's on my 2016 LTZ and they are AWESOME!  A little pricey but since you only have to replace them about every three years it is worth it to me.

  • Thanks 1
Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Bosch Icon.  I'm tired of the cheapy Goodyears or whatever they have at Costco only good for 6 months at the most.  Up here at altitude, UV and dry takes it toll quickly. 

  • Thanks 1
gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

I've had good luck with Michelin Stealth blades, I think they are a winter blade, but I find them in Florida, and they work well in the rain.

ftwhite Enthusiast

ftwhite

Posted
Posted

PIAA Si-Tech (silicone instead of rubber). Last long, wipe good. Quiet. But I don't drive an HD. Just a little 1500. ?

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I've been very happy with the OEM direct replacement ACDelco. I have got one bad wiper. Hard spot in the rubber. GM warranty gave me another free even at 2 years old. No adapter required so the fit right and work right. I get four to five years of northern Illinois weather service. 

 

Yes I am a glass cleaning fanatic ?.  I also drive 25-30K a year. Wipers were never intended to clean of ice, tree debris or dried bugs and bird crap. Keep the glass clean and wipers serviced and they just work when needed. Use Rain-X or Meguiar's liquid hybrid ceramic and you won't use those wipers often. Cleaning takes seconds.   

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted (edited)

Factory (OEM), fit great, easy install, and are fantastic when they are new. A little spendy, but you really get what you pay for with items like this.

Edited by JimCost2014
Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

Wiper Tech def better than years ago ... I usually scrape the dead bugs off my windshield with a single edge razor like every week - amazing how bug inner parts stuff is like super glue on glass - could use it to re-glue the rear view mirror on +- lol

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Cosmic Charlie said:

Wiper Tech def better than years ago ... I usually scrape the dead bugs off my windshield with a single edge razor like every week - amazing how bug inner parts stuff is like super glue on glass - could use it to re-glue the rear view mirror on +- lol

I rode motorcycles for decades and found out that bug wings are like litter razor blades to fork seals and allot harder to replace. Worse on wiper blades. It's a softer rubber. 

 

Kid you not, this Meguiar's liquid hybrid ceramic is something. In the cool of the morning a COLD damp microfiber and they slide off. Darn near jump off the truck. Paint, glass, plastic, rubber.... 

 

I drive an hour near sundown. Wife likes to watch the sunsets and photograph them. Next morning it was Bounce sheets and a couple hours cleaning all forward surfaces and re-waxing. Takes me under five minutes with a bucket of cold water and microfiber to wipe down the entire truck now. 90 SECONDS to do the forward surfaces alone. Looks freshly washed every day in minutes. 

 

Got caught in that squall line that past though our area a few days ago that has a thousand utility trucks up here. Several  inches of water in minutes driven by 80 mph winds. Didn't even  run the wipers until I slowed low enough (blocking traffic) that the wind wasn't doing the wipers job.  

 

First time I used it I followed instructions and.....meh. Then I applied it after a good wash and clay but like a regular liquid wax and BOOM!! 

 

But any decent blade needs a clean surface to work well and last awhile. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/22/2020 at 6:09 PM, dave_clt said:

Don't drive my truck all that much (primarily and infrequently used to tow enclosed trailer) so the OEM blades have been fine unchanged since purchase in 2016. 

It's funny you mention that because I was just thinking about this on my way home in the rain today.  I bought my 2018 new 27 months ago and I'm still using the OEM blades.  Half a dozen times a year I'll wipe them down using a window cleaner (without alcohol or ammonia) but that's it.  I never thought I'd say this but when they do go I might just buy another set.  Generally I have to buy new blades every 1-1.5 years so even if they're typical GM over-priced if I only have to swap them every 3 years it might be worth it.

Edited by theJman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • asilverblazer
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...