Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 minutes ago, Therickyp said:

Replacing just the rear speakers makes a huge difference. 

Rear speakers as in the ones in the rear doors?

 

Is there a direct fit bolt in that you would recommend? 

Posted
9 hours ago, gemarsh said:

Rear speakers as in the ones in the rear doors?

 

Is there a direct fit bolt in that you would recommend? 

Yes sir. Fade the sound all the way to the rear. You’ll see that the rear speakers sound terrible. 
 

I bought the Kicker 46CSC654 for the rears from crutchfield. There are a lot of options on their website that are vehicle specific. The speakers also come with the proper connectors. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Can’t go wrong with Crutchfield.  They will help with everything you need.  I’ve been using them for 30 years. 

Posted
21 hours ago, GS357 S said:

What is the ohm rating for the factory Bose speakers you replaced?  Did you go back with 4 ohms?

So your using the bose up front and kickers in rear?

 

 

Posted
On 2/20/2021 at 6:33 AM, Therickyp said:

Yes sir. Fade the sound all the way to the rear. You’ll see that the rear speakers sound terrible. 
 

I bought the Kicker 46CSC654 for the rears from crutchfield. There are a lot of options on their website that are vehicle specific. The speakers also come with the proper connectors. 

I noticed this the other day myself.  ZERO bass and crap mids and highs.  Don't happen to have a before and after do ya?  

 

Also, I know the older Bose systems (eg my 2001 Caddy Eldo) used weird ratings like 1.5 or 2 ohm.  Is that the case in these trucks?

Posted
16 hours ago, Rob Mugs said:

I noticed this the other day myself.  ZERO bass and crap mids and highs.  Don't happen to have a before and after do ya?  

 

Also, I know the older Bose systems (eg my 2001 Caddy Eldo) used weird ratings like 1.5 or 2 ohm.  Is that the case in these trucks?

I don't have a before and after sound clip. The Bose system in these trucks do have a wierd ohm rating from what i have read. 

Posted

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, BassDaggett said:

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

I just ordered this exact same setup from crutchfield today for my elevation...like $300....I dont need a stupid auido system... just want a clean sound and dont have to crank volume, i know you can get crazy with these things

 

good to hear your happy and I dont even have the Bose, did you do it yourself or have it installed? and did you dynamat whole door or just where the speakers are?

Edited by Dunn
Posted
5 hours ago, BassDaggett said:

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

This sounds like a great solution.  Were the JL Audio a direct replacement speaker for the factory Bose?  Did you lose some power assuming you went with a higher ohm speaker?

Posted
1 hour ago, GS357 S said:

This sounds like a great solution.  Were the JL Audio a direct replacement speaker for the factory Bose?  Did you lose some power assuming you went with a higher ohm speaker?

Crutchfield is great......they tell you exactly what you can use, you punch in your vehicle specifics and intentons and they spit out all the options you can use.....check them out

 

JL C1 is direct replacement you can use for factory or with amp.....

 

 

https://video.crutchfield.com/v/crutchfield-jl-audio-c1-series-car-speakers/225294977

 

Posted
On 2/20/2021 at 7:58 PM, GS357 S said:

 

would replacing just the rears factory bose speakers with the 6.5” c1’s improve the sound in rear?

 

im quite happy with sound up front so hesitant replacing all of that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 476 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...