Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mikey
Quit overanalyzing it. Now you're worried about hitting a deer.
Throw the bags on it if it makes you feel better. You don't need anyone's approval to do do this.
Hook up the trailer and go. Don't worry about your headlights or deer.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Mikey
Quit overanalyzing it. Now you're worried about hitting a deer.
Throw the bags on it if it makes you feel better. You don't need anyone's approval to do do this.
Hook up the trailer and go. Don't worry about your headlights or deer.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

Sorry, I really wasn't trying to overanalyze. Well maybe I was but I have made my decision. After the subject was brought up, I was just trying to show why bags make more sense for me and easier to adjust over constantly having to correct the headlights each time. Sometimes my ability to ignore doesn't work so well... Thanks.

Posted
2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

Sorry, I really wasn't trying to overanalyze. Well maybe I was but I have made my decision. After the subject was brought up, I was just trying to show why bags make more sense for me and easier to adjust over constantly having to correct the headlights each time. Sometimes my ability to ignore doesn't work so well... Thanks.

Just am fyi - when I'm on a camping trip and have extra air in my airbags, I rarely deflate them when running around.  I wait until I get home to deflate them.  I also add extra air to my load range 'E' tires before the trip and lower after the trip.  Aside from a much stiffer ride, there are no downsides.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well bags are on. It went pretty smooth and I only lost one star washer. I would call that a win. Yesterday turned out to be the perfect day to do it. I didn't have time to hook up the trailer to check the results but it does seem a little cushier in the rear end. I have 10lbs psi in the bags for now to see how it does unhitched. I ended up mounting the Schrader valves into the side footsteps on the rear bumper. Very easy access. I did gain about an inch in the rear wheelwells as it went from 39" before to about 40". The real test will be when I get a chance to hook up the trailer but I now have some wiggle room. The bags can go as high as 100lbs psi but I have no intention of even trying half of that. Now I just have to take care of the other unrelated issue that popped up. If it's not one thing, it's another...

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

No one mentioned adding another washer(s) to the hitch head. This would add a bit more weight transfer, this would help balance the sag between the front and rear. This should have been done first since the rear axle is overloaded anyways indicating more weight needed to go to the front.  

Posted

I am only shy 40lbs on front axle from unhitched truck to truck and hitched with weight distribution. Without WD, I had lost 280lbs on front axle. I gained back 240lbs on front axle from no weight distribution and with WD. The front wheel well is right at the height it was prior to being hitched. Everything I read said you don't want to put more weight on front axle that what it was unhitched. As far as trailer, the hitched trailer weight on axles is 120lbs more than without weight distribution. I also lost 320lbs from the rear axle with no weight distribution to having weight distribution. 

 

But soon I will be able to see what effect the airbags will now have. They were installed last weekend but now truck is in shop for unrelated matter and they are waiting on backorder parts. I can play around with extra washers as well as maybe lowering hitch when I have air on the bags as that may change hitch height slightly higher. But I think the biggest thing is the 2" level on the front. If the level wasn't on there, my truck would be equal in height after WD and headlights would still be aimed straight ahead as they should be. Putting 700lb tongue weight on the truck is going to cause the rear end to go down no matter what. Even with proper weight distribution. If truck had not been leveled, the 2" drop in rear would match front end instead of being 2" lower than the front end which is where I'm at. 

2 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

No one mentioned adding another washer(s) to the hitch head. This would add a bit more weight transfer, this would help balance the sag between the front and rear. This should have been done first since the rear axle is overloaded anyways indicating more weight needed to go to the front.  

 

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

No one mentioned adding another washer(s) to the hitch head. This would add a bit more weight transfer, this would help balance the sag between the front and rear. This should have been done first since the rear axle is overloaded anyways indicating more weight needed to go to the front.  

And the rear axle is still under the 3950lb rating by 410lbs. It is 660lbs over the unhitched weight but still well under the rating for the axle.

Edited by mikeyk101
Posted
On 4/13/2021 at 9:00 PM, mikeyk101 said:

And the rear axle is still under the 3950lb rating by 410lbs. It is 660lbs over the unhitched weight but still well under the rating for the axle.

Sorry, I must have misread something in the topic regarding how your loaded weights were in relation to their weight capacity.

 

I gather then you are aware of adding/removing washer to the hitch head for additional adjustment if needed? 

 

Like others, I tend to lean towards adjusting the weight distributing hitch rather than the airbags. I think it will add another variable to getting everything adjusted well. Not impossible, but more time spent at the scale adjusting the hitch setup and the airbags. 

 

FWIW: On vehicles equipped with Automatic Level Control, like my wife's Yukon, It is recommended to let the vehicle level prior to adjusting the hitch. In other words, Inflate the bags to your desired level, then adjust the hitch.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well I've been a bit busy trying to get several different projects done so I haven't been able to give any updates.  But I finally got around to checking my setup with the airbags and it looks like it's a success. When first checking the measurements, I had tried using about 25lbs in the bags and had a nose high on the trailer with 18" in front with bottom of frame and 17" in rear. Measurements of the truck front and rear wheel wells weren't too bad. But I needed to adjust because of the trailer results. I ended up going with 15lbs in the bags and lowering the ball down 1 hole. I get barely any difference with unhitched, and then hitched with weight distribution. I end the same on the front unhitched or hitched with WD and just under an inch of sag in rear. And the trailer now sits about 17" in front and 18" in rear. I haven't tested the difference on my headlights and night driving yet but it should be greatly improved. It seems to drive just fine. I had to get this done because I have a week-long trip planned starting next weekend and that will be the final test. It will be about a 1200 mile round trip. Somewhere along the way, I will revisit a CAT scale and see what the numbers are now but I'm feeling a lot better about my setup now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The engine was done as part of the 6.2 recall?   You'd have to see if your VIN also has the 6.2 engine special coverage on it.  Coverage number is N252494003.  If you have this, your engine is covered under this and NOT the GM replacement part engine warranty which is 3yr/100k from the date of install.  The 3yr/100k mi warranty is in effect for non warranty purchases.     This is not any different if it was replaced under warranty without a recall or special coverage.  So if you had a 5.3 and it popped at 3 years in at 50,000mi during the 5yr/60k powertrain, the replacement engine would not get the 3yr/100k, and instead gets the remainder of the 5yr/60k as coverage.     So N252494003 gives 10 years or 150,000mi of coverage, which ever comes first, starting at the vehicle in service date.  So if your in service date is 01/01/2022, N252494003 gives you special coverage of the engine until 01/01/2032 or 150,000mi, whichever comes first.  So if your start date was 01/01/2022, you'd have left 5 years and 4 months (lets round to august 1st), or 62,000mi left of coverage.   So you need to know your in service date to know how much coverage is left.  
    • Okiee dokie there bud, way to take things to the extreme.   I guess you missed the whole point and take things way to serious. I installed different EV6 style injectors that just so happen to be larger in my car running the same LQ4 engine and with a better spray pattern than the stock style injectors and I noticed no difference in the idle quality. Kinda was my round about way of saying that even if you put the same size but better style injectors in your truck, you will likely see the same thing.    I'm sure you're great to have conversations with in person if that's how you act through a keyboard. One little things sets you off and now I guess my dick is all up in your face.
    • I can't believe that could possibly be the case. It should be 36mo/100k miles from installation. Then again, it also seems like since a dealership installed it, it'd all be in the system and you wouldn't need to worry about registering, either. Shows you what I know. 😄 Hope this one outlives the warranty!
    • I haven't seen inventory recovery from COVID.    In the few random times I 'build my own' truck or SUV, no one has the exact one I want.   GM has been working to lower incentives too for a long time.    A $500 incentive isn't getting me off the couch to go truck shopping.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...