Jump to content

Castrol Edge VS Amsoil OE

diyer2
 Share

Recommended Posts

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Some of those 'byproducts' are soluble and cannot be filtered out and deposit when the motor is heat cycled. Shellac from fuels poorly combusted. Ask me how I know? :P That gold color. Formed during operation and deposited on cool down and they do not solve out with newer low solvency lubricants. Detergents are ineffective at removing them once deposited. I honestly do not know how effective detergents are at even slowing such fuel related shellac deposits down from plating out. Maybe someone with more chemistry background will weigh in. 😉 @customboss

 

Leaves two lines of defense. As highlighted, change it before it reaches 'saturation'. Keep it in a sharp state of tune which includes a close eye on the PVC system. The more optimal the ENTIRE tune and the more optimal the service the longer it will go. Not a cookie cutter situation....IMHO.  

 

Hyundai has it figured out for their motor.  

 

 

 

 

Correct, there are properties of our fuels that will never be filtered out in the engine oil filter or dispersed properly by the engine oil.  

 

So those deposits "stick" to hot thin flow areas with a good amount gassing off on higher temp and higher areas of the engine. 

 

The majority of issues I've documented over 42 years of lubricants and fuels R&D work found the fuels dilution and incorrect combustion and CCV systems as THE issue. 

 

Increased aromatics are being used by refiners that are very aggressive and even more once they run through crankcase venting and EGR function, now done by VVT and engine valve systems.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 156
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

diyer2
diyer2

Until I joined this forum I never thought of oil base stocks or additives. I never considered using the fancy oils like Amsoil etc.  I just changed my oil. When they started extended OCI's I ignored i

Z45
Z45

I have done the opposite for over 30 yrs.  Never changed my oil (except for a new vehicle first change) before 15,000 miles or 1 yr of service. Used to go 25,000 miles but since I retired I don't trav

diyer2
diyer2

Back on topic. We took a 2/1/2 day road trip covering 600+ miles with 2 nights in a motel. Driving conditions included lots of curvy mountain roads, flat straight roads with lots of elevation changes.

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted

Dirty looking engine oil maybe analytically fine, its just dispersing a lot of gasoline additive polymers damaged by heat and still having enough polarity the Castrol could hold it.  Until they get large enough being held in dispersant micelles the oil filter is a SCREEN DOOR ON A SUBMARINE  efficient. In others won't clean up the clarity of the lubricant. 

  • Like 2
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Follow up to my Castrol Edge vs Amsoil OE.
Changed the oil and filter in our 19 SF 2.4L non turbo switching to Amsoil OE from Castrol Edge. We have put over 150 miles on it since the oil change, what I have noticed.
We have morning temps in the 20's here in the mountains. On a cold start it is quieter. It is also quieter at idle when warmed up. The wife noticed it was quieter, very surprising.
So IMO Amsoil oil had the same effect in the car as it did in my ATV, the motor is quieter. I like that.
I will continue to use Amsoil OE and and a Purolator One oil filter at an additional cost of $8 per oil and filter change compared to Edge and a Wix oil filter.
YMMV

EDIT

3000-3500 K mile OCI's will be the norm. Severe duty OCI's for this car is 3750 miles and our use is severe duty per the manual.

Edited by diyer2
  • Like 2
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

FYI

It took 27 weeks and 2 days to put 3148 miles on the Santa Fe when I switched to Amsoil.

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I check the oil regularly, last check at 2300 miles. The Amsoil OE is cleaner than the Edge at the same mileage.

Trans was serviced with Amsoil trans fluid Karnut a while ago.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

I check the oil regularly, last check at 2300 miles. The Amsoil OE is cleaner than the Edge at the same mileage.

Trans was serviced with Amsoil trans fluid Karnut a while ago.

Spot on diyer2, my latest OE run still had another 5000 miles easy on a 7400 mile oil run! See here : 

 

Can't wait to try the 5w30 Signature Series fluids in the engine.  

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

FYI

I haven't added any oil using the Amsoil OE, still right where it started on the dip stick checked after sitting over night. It has just over 3 K  miles on the Amsoil. The Edge was requiring a small amount of oil to be added. 👍

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
32 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

FYI

I haven't added any oil using the Amsoil OE, still right where it started on the dip stick checked after sitting over night. It has just over 3 K  miles on the Amsoil. The Edge was requiring a small amount of oil to be added. 👍

 

I appreciate these updates from a fella whose bias is in check and his methods scientific. Observe and report. 😎

 

Keep it coming. 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I forgot to post this feature that is on our Santa Fe. You can set the OCI to whatever you like, I have it set at 3 K. Currently have about 3300 miles on the first Amsoil OE. Still shows full on a cold overnight level check. Oil isn't as dirty as the Edge would be. Thinking of going to 4K.

 

 

  • Like 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

My CRV at 5K miles finally got a little dark, damn little. My wife’s Genesis all in town miles is dark at 3K miles. It gets changed just under 4K per their recommendation. It had bumper to bumper 10-100k so I followed. The Avalanche at 3K clearish. The original owner did 3K oil changes, at 6K filter. Funny the last time at the dealership they said my oil was sludge  first coming out. I check before driving every time. No evidence. When the weather gets cool I’m doing the next one. The Honda now at 7K miles on this oil is cleaner than the Genesis. Non are di engines, no turbos. The truck and Genesis travel the same roads in town. The Honda is mostly trips. Funny though the full-size Genesis is just 2 miles under per gallon than the CRV at 72 miles per hour on trips. The Genesis just hums along while the RPMs dance around on the CRV. 

  • Like 1
customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, KARNUT said:

My CRV at 5K miles finally got a little dark, damn little. My wife’s Genesis all in town miles is dark at 3K miles. It gets changed just under 4K per their recommendation. It had bumper to bumper 10-100k so I followed. The Avalanche at 3K clearish. The original owner did 3K oil changes, at 6K filter. Funny the last time at the dealership they said my oil was sludge  first coming out. I check before driving every time. No evidence. When the weather gets cool I’m doing the next one. The Honda now at 7K miles on this oil is cleaner than the Genesis. Non are di engines, no turbos. The truck and Genesis travel the same roads in town. The Honda is mostly trips. Funny though the full-size Genesis is just 2 miles under per gallon than the CRV at 72 miles per hour on trips. The Genesis just hums along while the RPMs dance around on the CRV. 

Stan,  CRV a CVT?  Change out the fluid to Amsoil CVT and bet it stabilizes without all the slippage. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

Stan,  CRV a CVT?  Change out the fluid to Amsoil CVT and bet it stabilizes without all the slippage. 

The CVT took a little getting used to. People may laugh but the CRV is just a little slower than my 94 impala ss was. As far as fluid. Honda has an additive that they sell for the CVT. Using it gives you a lifetime warranty. Same with the oil. That’s why I let them service it and use their fluids.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 746 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...