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Posted

Hi folks, I’m wondering if anyones used the NGK Ruthenium plugs in an L83 5.3 engine. Need to do plugs and wires in the future, and wasn’t sure if the Ruthenium plugs were worth the extra $$$, or if I should just go with the factory Iridium plugs? 

Posted

I was born before platinum plugs. Champion Copper was a big deal. Sealed? Previous designs one could take apart. Boy what a time. Every service station had a plug cleaner. Mini blast cabinet. At home you used a pocket knife and a wire brush. 

 

Those original copper core plugs will work in new motors too. But they wont do it as long. And they propagate a flame differently. It's about space and spark energy. Old copper plugs would produce enough energy (if the coils would) but they shielded the spark from the charge. You could file them down and run larger gaps and that worked really well BUT they eroded so fast it was really only practical for racing or weekend drivers. Ever hear of guys 'Indexing" plugs to help reduce shielding?

 

Anyway, platinum allowed more space. Iridium allows even more and Ruthenium? Well it's just another rung on the ladder. Finer wire, more space but most importantly the erode much slower. It's a tougher material so it holds a tune longer and it is harder to collect 'scale'. That said Iridium will last 100K miles as is. We use to clean plugs every 5K miles. 

 

There is also this. As these things improve the incremental difference between steps gets smaller and smaller but as dad use to say, "Penny's make dollars". 

 

I have a set on the way for a different motor. My first actually. Currently I use iridium in everything. Even stuff that never knew what they were. I could continue to use Copper in the old stuff but the new materials work very well and if this works out who knows....

 

And here's a tip for ya old people know. At some point the new will replace the old enough the old will disappear entirely and they what plug will you use? When that happens all those who said OEM only will sing different tunes. 

 

Find an SB oil in example. Till 1963 it was the OEM gold standard of care. Now when it is no longer available those same OEM's and Oil concerns will tell you it will HARM  your pre 63 Chevy 265. HARM!? See how this works? GM recommended an oil they now say is harmful. 🤔 

 

What a world. 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I was born before the newer plugs also. Just use OEM plugs. I always have without issue. Why change a design spec?

Posted
1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

I was born before the newer plugs also. Just use OEM plugs. I always have without issue. Why change a design spec?

 

No, using OEM will not cause an issue. 😉 Correct.

 

So do you buy the exact same tires that came on your car? Use the manufactures oil and filter? ATF? Go to the OEM for replacement bulbs? Of course not. And the reason for that is? Yes, sometimes cost. Yes sometimes availability. Yes sometimes the aftermarket makes something that is an enhancement of the "design spec"?  

 

Why do you use AMSOIL in your ATV instead of Honda Lube? Isn't that a change of OEM spec design? Just a question. 

 

Now having run that rabbit down a hole I will say that considering the number of "KNOCK OFF" plugs being circulated it would make me be pretty darn certain of my supply source and the OEM is the most secure place to by such a highly pirated part. 

 

 

Posted

The short answer Grumpy,

I use OEM for some things, after market for others. I try to keep it simple usually going with good, better or best depending on the product. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Let's put it this way. OEM that lasted me over 100k...or this other stuff that costs more without comprehensible reason? Just did my plugs, bought OEM iridium and even got an ACD rebate. Truck still starts and I saved beer money to boot.

Now wires on the other hand, I would opt for aftermarket ceramic boots given the choice. I went with Accel 9000. Truck still starts, spent my beer money though.

 

  • Haha 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I was born before platinum plugs. Champion Copper was a big deal. Sealed? Previous designs one could take apart. Boy what a time. Every service station had a plug cleaner. Mini blast cabinet. At home you used a pocket knife and a wire brush. 

 

Those original copper core plugs will work in new motors too. But they wont do it as long. And they propagate a flame differently. It's about space and spark energy. Old copper plugs would produce enough energy (if the coils would) but they shielded the spark from the charge. You could file them down and run larger gaps and that worked really well BUT they eroded so fast it was really only practical for racing or weekend drivers. Ever hear of guys 'Indexing" plugs to help reduce shielding?

 

Anyway, platinum allowed more space. Iridium allows even more and Ruthenium? Well it's just another rung on the ladder. Finer wire, more space but most importantly the erode much slower. It's a tougher material so it holds a tune longer and it is harder to collect 'scale'. That said Iridium will last 100K miles as is. We use to clean plugs every 5K miles. 

 

There is also this. As these things improve the incremental difference between steps gets smaller and smaller but as dad use to say, "Penny's make dollars". 

 

I have a set on the way for a different motor. My first actually. Currently I use iridium in everything. Even stuff that never knew what they were. I could continue to use Copper in the old stuff but the new materials work very well and if this works out who knows....

 

And here's a tip for ya old people know. At some point the new will replace the old enough the old will disappear entirely and they what plug will you use? When that happens all those who said OEM only will sing different tunes. 

 

Find an SB oil in example. Till 1963 it was the OEM gold standard of care. Now when it is no longer available those same OEM's and Oil concerns will tell you it will HARM  your pre 63 Chevy 265. HARM!? See how this works? GM recommended an oil they now say is harmful. 🤔 

 

What a world. 

 

 

 

 

'63 265? Common man. I think. You've been around long enough to know better. 😀

Posted

I use the NGK ruthenium on my 6.2. Work great.  Can't tell difference from factory, but the wire upgrade was big. Took care of miss fires.

Posted

Autolite says convention copper plugs have a life span of 32K tops. Champion claims they are done at 20K miles. 

The purpose of 'alloy' is to slow erosion.  Single platinum plugs are said to last twice as long as copper and copper is the benchmark all other metals are judged against. Thus single platinum could last between 40K and 64K. I'll just make a table from here. 

 

Copper 20-32 K

Single Platinum 40 - 64K

Double Platinum 60-96K

Iridium 80-128K

Ruthenium 100-160K

 

I'm not going to do a cost breakdown but your experience should indicate that the more expensive plug is priced in line with it's expected life span thus...break even. Just like hybrid cars that cost more and save energy cost break even. The OEM isn't going to let you win this trade. They make an advancement and they keep 100% of the savings. What you get to save is a few dollars spent at the shop and a fewer trips to it. 

 

 

It isn't really about what plug make more power or gets the best MPG. It's about the length of life and the ability to hold a sharp tune longer. That difference is where any money you save is to be made in addition to the shop time naturally. 

 

ANY plug listed that you can find for your application will 'Work". 

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone tried pulstar plugs? They are proven to increase power a little bit high rpm; but I haven't heard great things about durability. 

Posted

I think I’m going to give the Ruthenium plugs a try. If they last longer then they’re worth the extra $1.50 a plug to me, any other benefit, if any, is just a bonus after that. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I pull plugs every 50-60k miles for inspection and to free them, and if I'm pulling them out, new ones are going back in.  I stick with platinum, no need to splurge.  Some may say that's wasteful, but two of my cars have lifetime replacement on plugs, so a full plug change costs me $6 in shipping.  At 186k miles on my BMW, I'm on my 4th set of plugs, but haven't paid for a plug in 120k miles.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

I was under the impression that NGK Ruthenium advertised as a High Ignitability plug would save significant gas milage especially with its high durability or long service life, so i bought a set of 8 pcs from rockauto along with a new set of GM genuine wires for my 2015 Seirra Denali 6.2l

 

NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability; Pre-Set Gap: 0.044" Info   One of our most popular parts

 

Few days after replacement, I started to have random misfire code P0300. Spent few days trying to diagnose the problem and the misfire was eliminated after reverting back to ACDelco 41-114 OEM plugs except for Cylinder #. 8. Apparently, the injectors were affected and now i have to bear nearly $1000 USD to replace all 8 injectors, fuel lines and fuel pipes. I regret going for aftermarket parts when it comes to essential engine components and will never do it again.

 

The conclusion:

I wouldn't recommend going for NGK Ruthenium plugs under any circumstances. Genuine Iridium OEM plugs with 0.04" design gap offer excellent service life without an issue.

Edited by Hazem A
  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

I usually choose the path of least resistance. About 25 years ago best I can remember I realized OEM parts and fluids were lasting longer. That’s about the time I started using dealerships for service. Being my wife’s vehicles rarely past 100K miles before changing, my work vehicles 130K. Replacing parts even brakes were rare. As a reward I used OEM when needed. Being the second would be the first time as I never ran past 200K miles. As far as advertising goes for something better. We know how that goes. I’ve only ran across a test Grumpy in the last few years. Believing him less then.😁 For clarification purposes. Skeptical at first, not anymore.

Edited by KARNUT

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