Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes.

 

Remove all AFM/DoD parts and replace them with non AFM parts. People have been doing this for over a decade. It just costs a lot of money on newer trucks to do.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Yes.

 

Remove all AFM/DoD parts and replace them with non AFM parts. People have been doing this for over a decade. It just costs a lot of money on newer trucks to do.

What would be the cost?

Posted

I rough guess on parts is $1,200-1,300, which would be the camshaft, lifters, trays, pushrods, gaskets, bolts etc etc. Then there would be labor. I'm not sure what book time would be on it but you have to strip it down to a long block pretty much. Both cylinders heads off, have to drop the oil pan as well. So I'd say a shop is going to charge a couple grand in labor.

 

Then you have to tune the computer. That's like $700 at a minimum and I'm not sure HP Tuners has released full support for 2022's yet.

 

If you can do the labor yourself it's a lot cheaper but you also void your warranty which is obvious.

  • Sad 1
Posted
3 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I rough guess on parts is $1,200-1,300, which would be the camshaft, lifters, trays, pushrods, gaskets, bolts etc etc. Then there would be labor. I'm not sure what book time would be on it but you have to strip it down to a long block pretty much. Both cylinders heads off, have to drop the oil pan as well. So I'd say a shop is going to charge a couple grand in labor.

 

Then you have to tune the computer. That's like $700 at a minimum and I'm not sure HP Tuners has released full support for 2022's yet.

 

If you can do the labor yourself it's a lot cheaper but you also void your warranty which is obvious.

ill drive mine for a minute to see how she behave , if I like the truck I might just do that and upgrade the camshaft to , that would be wicket .

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I would suggest disabling the AFM/DFM whichever your truck has. This will reduce the chance for engine failure and save you a lot of time and money. My 2021 Trail Boss 5.3L did not come with AFM/DFM because of a lack of semiconductors so I am no expert on this subject but I have heard good things about the Pulsar LT to disable these systems. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about this issue could chime in and steer you in the right direction. Remember worse case scenario Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to camshaft failure. This is a known problem on the 5.3 and 6.2L.

Posted
On 5/16/2022 at 7:53 PM, Bikerjon said:

I would suggest disabling the AFM/DFM whichever your truck has. This will reduce the chance for engine failure and save you a lot of time and money. My 2021 Trail Boss 5.3L did not come with AFM/DFM because of a lack of semiconductors so I am no expert on this subject but I have heard good things about the Pulsar LT to disable these systems. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about this issue could chime in and steer you in the right direction. Remember worse case scenario Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to camshaft failure. This is a known problem on the 5.3 and 6.2L.

That will help, but he will still have lifters that fail in the first place. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 5/18/2022 at 10:02 AM, z28tranz said:

That will help, but he will still have lifters that fail in the first place. 

I read somewhere that one cause of failure was due to the AFM/DFM and lifter interface...

 

Posted

For the folks that got the $50.00 rebate because your truck does not have the "chip" to make the AFM components function remember that all of those components are in your engine, just not functioning as they were designed to.

There have been and will continue to be documented failures on those components on "chipless" trucks as well as those like mine with the full bag of chips.

 

As others have mentioned there are kits to replace all of the internals with non AFM components. If I still have my truck and the lifter failure occurs out of warranty I'll spend the money on the "delete" kit. Cost will probably be lower than going with OEM parts that are failure prone and labor is what it is.

  • Sad 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)
On 5/16/2022 at 7:53 PM, Bikerjon said:

I would suggest disabling the AFM/DFM whichever your truck has. This will reduce the chance for engine failure and save you a lot of time and money. My 2021 Trail Boss 5.3L did not come with AFM/DFM because of a lack of semiconductors so I am no expert on this subject but I have heard good things about the Pulsar LT to disable these systems. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about this issue could chime in and steer you in the right direction. Remember worse case scenario Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to camshaft failure. This is a known problem on the 5.3 and 6.2L.

 

Hi, so dealing with collapsed lifters and camshaft failure now on my ‘19 with 83k miles. You stated that Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to a camshaft failure. Can you elaborate on that? Are they doing that on vehicles that are not under the 60k powertrain warranty? Would rather have the dealer fix this, but the cost for an engine is crazy. Leaning towards going to a local shop to have them delete the AFM and repair lifters and cam. Thanks!

Edited by James Whited
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, James Whited said:

 

Hi, so dealing with collapsed lifters and camshaft failure now on my ‘19 with 83k miles. You stated that Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to a camshaft failure. Can you elaborate on that? Are they doing that on vehicles that are not under the 60k powertrain warranty? Would rather have the dealer fix this, but the cost for an engine is crazy. Leaning towards going to a local shop to have them delete the AFM and repair lifters and cam. Thanks!

They will repair engine damage if the vehicle is still under warranty.  Your vehicle is well past the warranty stage so you will absorb all of the costs for any repairs associated with your engine.
 

I swapped out my lifters and pushrods, and my costs for lifters, pushrods, trays, gaskets, fluids, etc. was close to $2k in parts alone.  Based on the allotted time to replace those components, I would guess anywhere between $3K-$4K in labor.  If they need to pull the camshaft because of damaged lobes, add another $1K.  From what I remember, most people are looking at $6K-$8K for lifters and cam replacement.  Compare that to $6K for a brand new crate motor, and you are probably better off getting a brand new crate motor and paying a couple grand to get it installed.   Since I have 130K+ miles, if my engine ever experiences a lifter failure, I'll be replacing the entire engine.

 

 

Edited by Gangly
Posted
11 hours ago, James Whited said:

 

Hi, so dealing with collapsed lifters and camshaft failure now on my ‘19 with 83k miles. You stated that Chevrolet will repair engine damage related to a camshaft failure. Can you elaborate on that? Are they doing that on vehicles that are not under the 60k powertrain warranty? Would rather have the dealer fix this, but the cost for an engine is crazy. Leaning towards going to a local shop to have them delete the AFM and repair lifters and cam. Thanks!

You quoted me from over two years ago. Chevrolet will not repair lifter failure out of warranty and at 83000 you are out of warranty. Gangly is correct. Your best bet may be an engine replacement.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/27/2024 at 9:42 PM, Bikerjon said:

You quoted me from over two years ago. Chevrolet will not repair lifter failure out of warranty and at 83000 you are out of warranty. Gangly is correct. Your best bet may be an engine replacement.

depends on his powertrain warranty... mine was 5/100,000. My lifters went out at 79K.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 539 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...