2022 RST Speaker Replacement

[mjonesjr84]

4 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

So I’m NOT losing my mind! I just traded my ‘19 SLT with the Bose system in for a ‘22 Denali with the Bose system. Driving home, listening to a song that would thump in my old truck, there was nothing. I am not a true audiophile, I just want it to sound better using stock components. I don’t even know if this system has a separate sub. In my old truck, I believe it was under the center console. 

No separate sub in the refresh.

[SPASierra]

15 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

No separate sub in the refresh.

Thank you!  Now I just need to go pack through this post and reread everything you’ve done so far. LOL

[Mike Borowski]

No dedicated sub in the refreshed Bose system?? Really??

[mjonesjr84]

2 minutes ago, Mike Borowski said:

No dedicated sub in the refreshed Bose system?? Really??

Yup, really. 

[AleksanderSuave]

On 9/16/2022 at 1:34 PM, mjonesjr84 said:

 

The dash speakers are super easy in the refresh compared to the 19-21 trucks.

 

In my 2022 refresh with Bose, the front door speakers are 2 ohm while the dash and rear doors are 4 ohm. 

 

If replacing your dash speakers, there isn't a wiring adapter available. The driver side + wire is the blue with purple stripe. The passenger side+ wire is the white with yellow stripe. I used the PAC BB-2PR 600hz at 4 ohm bass blockers on the dash speakers.

 

To get to the dash speakers in a refresh interior, both A-pillar trims have to come off, then the speaker trim will pop up. The grills are connected to each other by the panel all across the dash. It pops up really easy. The HUD or Driver Alert trim comes off with it. There is enough wire that you don't have to unplug the Driver Alert light. See the picture for reference.

 

Just an FYI for those interested.

When it comes to wiring those up, did you install a cross-over somewhere in between the replacement door speaker and the new tweeter? If so, how did you run the cabling from it to the tweeter?

Crutchfield suggested replacing them with separate tweeters that have built in crossovers (as opposed to a component set)..which I've never done before. Ive always run components with wiring from the speaker to the tweeter, but that was typically with vehicles where the tweeter was in a door sail or near the mirror, not entirely separate in the dash.

[mjonesjr84]

2 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

When it comes to wiring those up, did you install a cross-over somewhere in between the replacement door speaker and the new tweeter? If so, how did you run the cabling from it to the tweeter?

Crutchfield suggested replacing them with separate tweeters that have built in crossovers (as opposed to a component set)..which I've never done before. Ive always run components with wiring from the speaker to the tweeter, but that was typically with vehicles where the tweeter was in a door sail or near the mirror, not entirely separate in the dash.

 

I did not use a cross over or component set for my door speakers. The speakers for the dash I got are replacement 2-3/4" speakers. They wire up using the factory wiring. There is no plug adapter for the factory wiring so you have to cut the OEM plug off. I left enough wire on the OEM plug to add it back if I sell the truck and take the speakers out.

[mafd2]

So, as being into home, vintage and car audio for a long time here's what I did to my 2022 Bose system.  I left the front door speakers in, replaced the front tweeters and rear door speakers.  The system sounds so much better.  As stated by mjonesjr.84, changing the front door speakers doesn't really make a difference as these are only mid bass speakers and do a good job. 

 

The tweeters I used are the CDT AUDIO ES-1200iSF 1" high resolution wide dispersion tweeters from Woofers Etc.  These tweeters have the best specs, frequency response and I think these are the best performing tweeters you can get.  The on and off axis curves at 0 degree, 15 degree, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree are exceptional and out perform other tweeters by far.  Frequency response is 1500Hz-50,000Hz ( you won't find this range with other tweeters) and sensitivity is 92.5dB.

 

The rear door speakers I used are JBL 3 ohm Club 622 6 3/4 speakers with the patented Plus One woofer. They have great sensitivity (93db) and frequency response (48-21,000 Hz). They are a little louder and much cleaner and clearer than stock. Tweeter is angled up on these.

 

Turning the bass and treble all the way up and midrange (which is in 1k frequency range) down gives an amazing sound with clean bass and crisp, clean, amazing highs.  The midrange setting on the Bose system sounds like crap and is the killer.  You'll be surprised how much better it will sound doing these 2 mods and turning the midrange down.   Thanks to the OP for starting this thread.  

Edited October 5, 2022 by mafd2

[mafd2]

50 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

When it comes to wiring those up, did you install a cross-over somewhere in between the replacement door speaker and the new tweeter? If so, how did you run the cabling from it to the tweeter?

Crutchfield suggested replacing them with separate tweeters that have built in crossovers (as opposed to a component set)..which I've never done before. Ive always run components with wiring from the speaker to the tweeter, but that was typically with vehicles where the tweeter was in a door sail or near the mirror, not entirely separate in the dash.

See my post on what I did to my Bose system.  The tweeters I used don't need or use crossovers and have an exceptional frequency response. 

[AleksanderSuave]

1 hour ago, mafd2 said:

See my post on what I did to my Bose system.  The tweeters I used don't need or use crossovers and have an exceptional frequency response. 

would the same ideas apply to non-bose truck? 

 

Also..I realized my mistake in this now. The in-dash speakers are not true tweeters, from what I see everywhere else they're 2" mids. This clarifies why a few videos Ive watched all discuss drilling into the grab handle trim to mount a "tweeter".

[mjonesjr84]

3 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

would the same ideas apply to non-bose truck? 

 

Also..I realized my mistake in this now. The in-dash speakers are not true tweeters, from what I see everywhere else they're 2" mids. This clarifies why a few videos Ive watched all discuss drilling into the grab handle trim to mount a "tweeter".

 

Yes, same principle in the non-Bose trucks. 

 

They have adapter plates to mount the tweaters in the dash speaker spot. You would need to run wires from where you mounted the component cross-overs in the door up to the dash speaker location. I don't think it would be hard, just time consuming.

[sclemmer]

18 hours ago, Mike Borowski said:

No dedicated sub in the refreshed Bose system?? Really??

@mjonesjr84

For confirmation, trucks with the 12 speaker Bose system with "rich bass woofer" do not have a dedicated sub?

[mjonesjr84]

37 minutes ago, sclemmer said:

@mjonesjr84

For confirmation, trucks with the 12 speaker Bose system with "rich bass woofer" do not have a dedicated sub?

I don't think the Silverado or the Sierra ever came with a 12 speaker Bose system in the T1 platform. They did have the option for a 7 speaker Bose which had the sub in the center console. 

 

The 2022 refresh trucks do not come with the sub in the center console.

[AleksanderSuave]

4 hours ago, mafd2 said:

So, as being into home, vintage and car audio for a long time here's what I did to my 2022 Bose system.  I left the front door speakers in, replaced the front tweeters and rear door speakers.  The system sounds so much better.  As stated by mjonesjr.84, changing the front door speakers doesn't really make a difference as these are only mid bass speakers and do a good job. 

 

The tweeters I used are the CDT AUDIO ES-1200iSF 1" high resolution wide dispersion tweeters from Woofers Etc.  These tweeters have the best specs, frequency response and I think these are the best performing tweeters you can get.  The on and off axis curves at 0 degree, 15 degree, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree are exceptional and out perform other tweeters by far.  Frequency response is 1500Hz-50,000Hz ( you won't find this range with other tweeters) and sensitivity is 92.5dB.

 

The rear door speakers I used are JBL 3 ohm Club 622 6 3/4 speakers with the patented Plus One woofer. They have great sensitivity (93db) and frequency response (48-21,000 Hz). They are a little louder and much cleaner and clearer than stock. Tweeter is angled up on these.

 

Turning the bass and treble all the way up and midrange (which is in 1k frequency range) down gives an amazing sound with clean bass and crisp, clean, amazing highs.  The midrange setting on the Bose system sounds like crap and is the killer.  You'll be surprised how much better it will sound doing these 2 mods and turning the midrange down.   Thanks to the OP for starting this thread.  

This seems like an easy solution, I found the tweeters on ebay for $110 from woofers ETC. 

The rears you mentioned (club 622) Im only seeing a 6.5" not 6 - 3/4".

Sounds like some adapters for the tweeters to fit in the dash, and adapters for the rears (plus wiring adapters), and I could be all in for $250 total.

[AleksanderSuave]

3 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

 

Yes, same principle in the non-Bose trucks. 

 

They have adapter plates to mount the tweaters in the dash speaker spot. You would need to run wires from where you mounted the component cross-overs in the door up to the dash speaker location. I don't think it would be hard, just time consuming.

 

It took me about 4-5 re-readings of everything written in here to realize that you installed something like these in the dash speaker spots: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC27/Kicker-47KSC2704.html 

 

Did your experience agree with mafd2's in that changing the front door speaker is mostly low in overall bang for your buck performance increase?

 

 

[mjonesjr84]

4 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

 

It took me about 4-5 re-readings of everything written in here to realize that you installed something like these in the dash speaker spots: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC27/Kicker-47KSC2704.html 

 

Did your experience agree with mafd2's in that changing the front door speaker is mostly low in overall bang for your buck performance increase?

 

 

Those are the ones I put in the dash along with 600mhz bass blockers on the + wire. 

 

I can tell a difference with the Kicker KS 6x9 2-way front door speakers. I can agree that the bass and treble up and the mid turned about 2/3 of the way up does sound the best.

 

I do plan on adding a 5-channel amp after the first of the year to power the door speakers and a sub.