Jump to content

2022 RST Speaker Replacement

papasink
 Share

Recommended Posts

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

Did you use the 2021 harness for the tweeters, or did you have to cut the wires? I really don’t want to cut them if at all possible. 

There are no adapter wiring for the dash speakers. You have to cut the wires and put spade terminals on.

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

mjonesjr84
mjonesjr84

The dash speakers are super easy in the refresh compared to the 19-21 trucks.   In my 2022 refresh with Bose, the front door speakers are 2 ohm while the dash and rear doors are 4 ohm. 

mafd2
mafd2

So, as being into home, vintage and car audio for a long time here's what I did to my 2022 Bose system.  I left the front door speakers in, replaced the front tweeters and rear door speakers.  The sys

mafd2
mafd2

Thanks man. Please take a few pics along the way.

Posted Images

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, AleksanderSuave said:

what made you choose those over something like the CDT Unity 8.0's? They seem very popular in this specific application (GM, toyota, subaru..with odd sized corner mids instead of tweeters)

Specs, performance. Didn't want a 200 hz tweeter. Those frequencies are coming from the door speakers. DB (sensitivity) is much lower. The higher db the louder.  $100 more and won't sound better. I don't know if these will mount up in the dash holes correctly. These Unity 8.0 are mid/tweeter drivers really designed for home/car cabinets and boxes.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, SPASierra said:

Any idea if this will fit as a plug and play option?  It is for a 2021, but says it supports UQA.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2021-sierra-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92311164.html

I think it will. However, you'll have to verify with a dealer. The 2022 refresh has the new electrical architecture. Not sure if that changes anything on the audio side.

  • Like 1
AleksanderSuave Enthusiast

AleksanderSuave

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

Any idea if this will fit as a plug and play option?  It is for a 2021, but says it supports UQA.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2021-sierra-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92311164.html

It is listed under the "NEW 2022" silverado category on the website as well.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2022-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92320212.html 

 

this website specifically has been pretty good about parts fitment when I researched other items. However..my build sheet shows "UQF" for the radio code, which isnt on their list.  Calling the dealership can be hit or miss. I got the wrong part number twice for my front bowties last month from the dealership that sold me my truck.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
Just now, AleksanderSuave said:

It is listed under the "NEW 2022" silverado category on the website as well.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2022-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92320212.html 

 

this website specifically has been pretty good about parts fitment when I researched other items. However..my build sheet shows "UQF" for the radio code, which isnt on their list.  Calling the dealership can be hit or miss. I got the wrong part number twice for my front bowties last month from the dealership that sold me my truck.

You might call them then. I think there are 2 different part numbers for the non-Bose trucks.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

It is listed under the "NEW 2022" silverado category on the website as well.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2022-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92320212.html 

 

this website specifically has been pretty good about parts fitment when I researched other items. However..my build sheet shows "UQF" for the radio code, which isnt on their list.  Calling the dealership can be hit or miss. I got the wrong part number twice for my front bowties last month from the dealership that sold me my truck.

Honestly, for that price I'd go with the LLJ Customs wiring harness, my own amp, and build an enclosure for a sub. 

AleksanderSuave Enthusiast

AleksanderSuave

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

Honestly, for that price I'd go with the LLJ Customs wiring harness, my own amp, and build an enclosure for a sub. 

I agree with you. I feel like these types of "factory supported solutions" are usually more about whoever paid the OEM for the endorsement and exclusivity, as opposed to best bang for your buck.

Going back to our main discussion, interestingly enough... Crutchfield says it doesnt fit, but Kenwood says it will, its a kit built specifically for GM vehicles and offers a properly sized dash mid and the 6x9 door speaker: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-iDkZMJLPicO/p_113XP6902C/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XP6902C.html 

Edited by AleksanderSuave
RedLT Enthusiast

RedLT

Posted
Posted

Are speaker replacement worth the expense and time? Can the factory radio support the upgraded speakers? I've always experienced higher quality sound must have an amplifier to be able to deliver the required power to achieve what the speaker are capable of producing.  Without adding or replacing the amplifier IMO the speaker replacement will be very minimal.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, RedLT said:

Are speaker replacement worth the expense and time? Can the factory radio support the upgraded speakers? I've always experienced higher quality sound must have an amplifier to be able to deliver the required power to achieve what the speaker are capable of producing.  Without adding or replacing the amplifier IMO the speaker replacement will be very minimal.

 

I could tell a difference over the OEM Bose speakers. I will be adding an amp in the future to drive the speakers and have even better sound.

AleksanderSuave Enthusiast

AleksanderSuave

Posted
Posted (edited)

spacer.png

I ended up going with audiofrog for mine, GS690 for the doors (6x9) and GS25 widebands for the dash. Just in max volume alone, it is a significant increase. Quality is definitely impressive too. Listed to some avenged sevenfold and heard parts of the songs that I didnt even hear before when listening in the car.

For those of us who have non-bose (Im guessing here), the dash speaker wires differ from whats mentioned on page one.

 

They follow the same wiring as the front door speakers, so solid blue is positive, blue/brown is negative, passenger side is solid yellow for positive, and yellow/black for negative. 

I cut the wiring plug out of the OEM speaker, (leaving the cap soldered in), and soldered on some wires, with quick detach connectors to plug into the tabs on the speakers.

Edited by AleksanderSuave
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
On 10/6/2022 at 6:54 AM, AleksanderSuave said:

It is listed under the "NEW 2022" silverado category on the website as well.

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2022-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92320212.html 

 

this website specifically has been pretty good about parts fitment when I researched other items. However..my build sheet shows "UQF" for the radio code, which isnt on their list.  Calling the dealership can be hit or miss. I got the wrong part number twice for my front bowties last month from the dealership that sold me my truck.

If that kicker box sounds halfway decent and is easy to install I would maybe just do that......I have non boss

 

Tbh the base sound system in my new 22 refresh sounds better than my 21 did.....seems that way but still kinda meh.....

 

 

I replaced the speakers in my 21 with Crutchfield JL audios all the way around and sound improvement was marginally better.....I sure wouldn't do it again fir those same results.....

 

If I can throw a box in with better improvement and maybe get speakers dtl ......not an audio guy and really don't want to open up a can of worms and frustration

papasink Enthusiast

papasink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay so here is an update on my original post.

 

I was able to replace the door speakers with the exact ones from my 19 RTS.

 

I needed to purchase new dash speakers and went with Kenwood 2.75"  Had to splice but they mounted correctly.  Dash trim comes off much different that the 19.

 

I went to have my Rockford Fosgate 600x4 amp and Rockville 8" powered sub installed and ran into a bunch of issues.

 

1. The 22 Refresh has some type of amp in the center console area.  Tech said he would have to remove the whole console (full console with floor shifter) and it would be about 6 hours labor.  Nope.  Stopped that and reached out to LLJ for a custom harness.  Scanned the QR code and it has the IOK radio.  He is working on a harness for this model.

 

2. There is only 2 fuse spots that have ignition sense.  I am using them both for my fire department radios and controllers.  Had to have one installed.

 

3. The 3.0 diesel doesn't have much room on the passenger side firewall to punch through to run power.  Had them run power for the amp while they powered the sub.

 

Now, for those asking, the stock speakers aren't heavy enough to weigh down papers in my garage so replace them immediately.  The radio itself can power the new speakers and they are crisp but not much volume.  Had the update to fix the static.  New sub sounds very good (just needed a little thump).  Once I get the harness and time to install, I will update on the amp.  Dealer said not much info is out on the 22 Refresh yet.  Hope some diagrams and other info come soon.  

 

  • Like 1
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, papasink said:

Okay so here is an update on my original post.

 

I was able to replace the door speakers with the exact ones from my 19 RTS.

 

I needed to purchase new dash speakers and went with Kenwood 2.75"  Had to splice but they mounted correctly.  Dash trim comes off much different that the 19.

 

I went to have my Rockford Fosgate 600x4 amp and Rockville 8" powered sub installed and ran into a bunch of issues.

 

1. The 22 Refresh has some type of amp in the center console area.  Tech said he would have to remove the whole console (full console with floor shifter) and it would be about 6 hours labor.  Nope.  Stopped that and reached out to LLJ for a custom harness.  Scanned the QR code and it has the IOK radio.  He is working on a harness for this model.

 

2. There is only 2 fuse spots that have ignition sense.  I am using them both for my fire department radios and controllers.  Had to have one installed.

 

3. The 3.0 diesel doesn't have much room on the passenger side firewall to punch through to run power.  Had them run power for the amp while they powered the sub.

 

Now, for those asking, the stock speakers aren't heavy enough to weigh down papers in my garage so replace them immediately.  The radio itself can power the new speakers and they are crisp but not much volume.  Had the update to fix the static.  New sub sounds very good (just needed a little thump).  Once I get the harness and time to install, I will update on the amp.  Dealer said not much info is out on the 22 Refresh yet.  Hope some diagrams and other info come soon.  

 

Thanks for the update.

 

I wonder if the amp in the center console is JUST for the small sub.

 

Keep us updated on what you hear from LLJ. I'll be looking to them after the first of the year for a harness for my refresh.

 

Just an FYI, if you are running your own wire through the firewall, removing the battery will give you great access to the passenger side spot to run it through.

capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
Posted

I can tell you that the Kenwood 2.75 for the dash sound perfect. Just wire up to the stock amp and all is good.  The JL Audio C1's in the front and back doors sound a lot better as well especially when you turn the sound up a bunch. Very good sounding.  They have broken in well and hit harder today than a few weeks ago.  I just received my GM Kicker subwoofer today. I plan to install this over the weekend and will provide my feedback. I have the 2022.5 Sierra SLT with the premier Bose setup so I will give my honest feedback on it shortly.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...